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Mark Maras
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christoffel
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motorman7
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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2020 in Posts
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3 pointsI'd do a compression check before pulling the head. If the compression is good, I wouldn't open that pandora's box.3 points
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2 pointsWhat's the history of the motor? A lot of miles or pretty fresh rebuild? Does it smoke on start-up? You like driving it or working on it? It may be time to freshen it up but that's what I always do, get it roadworthy, dependable. I'd rather work on mine anyway. I guess it's time to buy another one instead of talking other people into working on theirs.2 points
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I’ve been slaving on a proto type. Room is tight in there, but I have something that seems to work. Lots of trial and error. Yes a welder was required, cut off wheels, carbide bit in a die grinder, used a lathe but you don’t “need” to (to make a nice centered hole in the end of the threaded press screw) Started out as one of these. Pictures of the final thing in action coming. I used a tail housing from a late zx trans with the reverse lock out thingy, so getting the pin out initially to have an assembly to play with was easy. As long as you support the shift finger casting on the shaft very solidly against the inside of the housing, you can smack the end of the pin with the female end of a 1/4 drive 6” socket extension (so it stays on the end of the pin) with a 3 lb hammer and it pops right out. Any amount of bounce in that shaft and you’re banging on a loosing proposition. I used 1 minute of propane heat on it first.
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1 pointIf the white smoke appeared while you were "Seafoaming" it would be an exhaust leak. But there could still be an intake leak in that area. The way to test would be to start the engine and spray some carburetor cleaner at the spot where you saw the smoke. If the intake gasket is leaking the idle speed will change. Probably increase. Spray, listen, spray, listen. Confirm an intake leak first. You're right on the edge of creating a non-running car. Even changing the intake/exhaust gasket can be difficult, with broken bolts and ez-outs and drilling. Removing the head gets you in to timing chain issues, with the potential for dropping the chain and needing to remove the timing chain cover. Big hairy problems....1 point -
1 pointYep, big step up from changing a manifold gasket to changing the head gasket. Not the sort of thing to do as a "while I'm there" if there's no problem and you're not so confident.1 point -
Hello Alan, It are pure assumptions from me. I thought that could be the case because it is a pure North American issue. For the reasons you are telling I assume (again) that HLS30-00003 is not the right car to use as an example . I took apart 6 cars between #23 and #305, and than you have a reasonable amount of cars to conclude what should be origina or not. It is really interesting to see how many changes there were in the first months. When there are 2 different parts on these cars, most of the time the leighter part is the earliest part. Being able to compare makes it more easy to decide what would have been orignal. A rare part that is different are the knuckle arms, They have the 12 mm ball joint shaft. The left ones are mostly still there but some of the right ones were missing. And took some time to find them. And about the the emission decal, I have one a very original HLS30-00672 with clear glass all around and it has a decall without date. So again an assumption of me that that could be the first type of decal. Only could find it on #184 but couldn/t read it anymore
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1 pointReset the drive quill for the distributor. You'll have to drop the oil pump. It's described in the Engine Mechanical chapter. The cam sprocket location marks are shown also, but they are probably fine. They don't have anything to do with what you're looking at with the plug wires. Or just drive it that way until you need to get in to the engine for some other reason.1 point
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Welcome and congratulations! First off - sorry about your friend. Loved the back story here, and your long association with him and his car. If you should decide to have it shipped, you night want to check out Reliable Carriers. I have used them in the past with great luck. Their drivers are top notch, everything about the car is documented before it ever gets loaded on the truck, and then checked again when it is unloaded to verify no change in condition. Their checklist is quite thorough. I know other folks who have had great experiences with them as well. If one of their drivers delivered a car with an extra 480 miles on it they would not be employed there for long.1 point -
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