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He is a desperate man, a wounded animal. Jail time, or at least years of trials and exposure, is waiting for him if he doesn't get re-elected. It's probably going to get much worse, especially as the election gets near, if the polls show him behind. If he loses, that lame duck period will be extraordinary. I'm talking about the man himself, not the party. These are fascinating times.

Yes, mine is a Speeduino EMS controlling fuel and ignition. Both spark and fuel maps are using the TPS for load because I have ITBs and I read that the MAP signal is unreliable at low engine speed on one cylinder runner. I might try it one day. Idle is controlled by spark timing. I set 1100rpm as the target speed and set it to advance ignition if the speed falls below and retard ignition if the speed exceeds. so when cold it has maybe 18 deg advanced at idle and when warmed up I think it drops to 10 or 12.

I have no words for the idiocy and treachery going on at the federal level any more. The president is actively advocating uprisings in states with coronavirus lockdowns. In 69 years I have never seen anything like it. This looks like an excuse for a political demonstration that will intentionally result in CO-19 death for some of the demonstrators. Health, science and logic have been thrown out by the white house. Mods, feel free to delete this post if it's out of line. I just couldn't avoid a comment about this.

Is that because you can roll it back and forward without losing tension? Exactly . It’s hard to land right on the valve opening sometimes based on the valve spring tension- but if you miss , you just roll the engine back . Movement is instant thru the chain assembly . You can also turn the motor using the cam bolt - which also simplifies things

My apologies, I overreacted without giving it more thought. Welcome to the forum.

Information is available . The fact is most don't believe it. The fact is that contact with infected people is how this virus has spread all over the globe. Facts: Covid -19 is a protein and not a normal virus. The lipid, fat layer, that protects it is what has caused all the problems. The normal body immune system can not remove this fat layer and the virus attracts the DNA shutting down what immune system the body has. Currently there is no cure for those infected and the only recourse is to limit those being infected ie: stay away from groups of people. It's not know why some have recovered from the symptoms of the virus of if they can become re-infected again. Thank god most stores here are requiring masks or you can't enter . Why people are going out in public without masks or gloves is beyond me. Protect yourselves because the stupid will infect the rest and prolong the problem.

Natural Selection at work. Hitler sent his followers out and told them to fight to the end too. No surrender. Risking and giving one's life for their Leader is still the ultimate glory for some. One person's glory is absolute stupidity to others. Looking back at the 1918 flu everyone started to relax as the summer months came around and the number of flu cases dropped dramatically. Little did they know when the virus came back in the fall it was going to be far worse than what they had experienced before. My fear is history is going to repeat itself.

In an ongoing effort to improve the brakes, had a heat shield and 280ZX brake booster installed a couple nights ago. Massive improvement! Pedal feels effortless now with no 'Flintstones style' braking attempts. Got a feeling the rotors are a little warped, so will be taking a look at those next. ?

THANKS FOR THE LAUGH ?

If you want to see what the manufacturers do when they have complete freedom from the mechanical stuff, get an OBD reader with live data capability and look at what your other vehicle does. It's pretty interesting. Here's a screen shot from a 2003 Ford, fully warmed up. Running coil packs (wasted spark) with EDIS, and a crankshaft trigger. Factory stock. They control timing and use an IACV to hit a target RPM, apparently. p.s. I don't have aftermarket engine control, but I've considered it. I got in to the factory systems and the OBD readers because I had a code on a used vehicle that I could not figure out. It was caused by a vacuum leak. This live data is read directly through the PCM.

Seeing the curve starting to flatten is all very nice, but it really only addresses the issue of exceeding the healthcare system being overwhelmed. When we start to go down the backside of the curve, what then? Here in Canada, the number of reported cases stands at roughly 80 per 100,000. That's less than 1/10th of one percent. Even if that number is low by a factor of 10 (and it may very well be), it means that 99% of the population has not yet been infected and therefore lacks immunity. I see no reason to believe that American figures will prove much different. If we/you decide to just, 'Let 'er rip' (see Donald Trump playbook), that curve is going to un-flatten in a hurry. No easy answers here.

Thoughts?

Many parts are non-magnetic due to the magnetic sensors.... or for lower cost. CO has a basement full of goodies!

Sorry about that, I did not mean to come off that way, thank you for the tip

Or buy new rails and replace the old ones. I'm sure you'll find a rusty mess inside those rails. By the time you figure out how to treat all the rust in hidden places and insert new sheet metal in the holes, it's easier to replace the rails. The worst part is over-head welding but at least the rails are skip-welded. They weren't heavy ga. sheet metal and it doesn't take long for rust to thin them from the inside out.

So I was spinning the distributor on the bench again today and I decided I would put the rotor on it just to see what it looked like as it spun. Nothing really bad happened, but I did pick up a noticeable vibration at certain RPM's. I pulled the rotor off and balanced it on a thin piece of metal. It's not balanced around the center shaft. You can see from the balance point off center. That can't do good things for spark scatter, bearing longevity, or reluctor gap consistency: I'm guessing it's because of the metal having a higher density than the plastic portion: I also assume that the extra material on the opposite end is supposed to be a counterweight. I have no idea what brand rotor this is, but it looks like they needed to add even more:

For a fleeting moment I had the exact same thought. Almost even asked about it. But then I thought, "Chris would never do that." I should have let Captain Obvious go free! Haha!!

Good upgrade Thanks!

An idea:

Getting close to starting again ! Love the Kameari tensioner set up . Makes life a lot easier to degree your cam

My son has been making 2 doz. peanut butter/chocolate chip cookies from scratch every third day for a couple weeks now, I'm starting to put on next years winter weight already. Both he and I love the burnt ones so he deliberately leaves them in an extra few min. These were baked this morning and I'm already thinking were going to run out.

This is just crazy. Never mind, just too much. Time will tell.

Been there myself.....we used a 73 front clip on the 71 car. You definitely should have a frame guy to assist. Came out perfect!

Maybe send the off topic info by PM... this thread is already bulging at the seams...! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks bud! I didn't start messing around with any of this stuff with the intention of producing anything for sale, but if someone wants to pay me, I'm for sale. Haha! And speaking of such things... So remember the other day when I told you I broke that brittle plastic vacuum advance bearing holder? It was right after I walked you successfully through how to get YOURS out WITHOUT breaking it? : Also remember that I told you I was sure that (using stone knives and bearskins) I COULD probably make something to replace it, but there was no way I was going to go through all that trouble? It was way beyond my pain threshold for an academic exercise? Well, then there's now: It's not brittle anymore.

So I am pretty disappointed with the US Car Tool design...the rotating head is "inelegant" let's just say, and the mechanical locking mechanism comes with built in finger pincher/skin rippers IMO... So, since I am a DIY kind of guy, I started looking for better alternatives. I saw this one on MZR Motorsports FB page and thought "Hmmm... Yes!" Soo .. off to Princess Auto and the hardware store .... And a few hours later I think I have a working prototype of the rotator head... It based on a 1" drive shaft with a 1/4" key. Very standard stuff, so adding "options' is literally just like building with Lego. The worm gear should hold the car in position, but I have added a simple mechanical lock (basically a pinion gear and bolt) for added security. Also I do prefer that the hubs are welded to the rotator arm and so the driveshaft goes right through the arm (as opposed to being just welded to the arm - again extra safety factor). Unfortunately - no time to weld until Monday so this is just a mock up / teaser for now ....?

~2008 Nissan suspension from internet.... pick any vehicle. They had a severe dissimilar metal corrosion here due to salt on roads. My Zclub buddy finished 2nd in a Nissan Mechanic competition held in Japan many years ago. He sees it all. He warned us about this. He fixes up and flips cars. Some of the corrosion was warrantied.

Here is my replacement tank, just recently removed. It has quite a high gloss compared to the suspension components. Replaced in 1985 at 134,600 miles and now has 147,600 miles, so only about 13,000 miles. $195 list price and I paid $156. Wondering now why I didn't stock pile more parts.