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Yeah, that's from the time I was being pursued down the freeway by a dozen LAPD, the sparks were flying but that old 510 out maneuvered them all. By the time it was over it looked like the end of The Blues Brothers.

I headed out to the storage tent today to remove the rear end of the 510 and start tearing down. Found something I hadn't noticed when I bought it. So what could be the story here? He's driving the car and losses his P/S rear wheel so he pulls over and throws the wheel into the trunk and instead of calling a tow truck figures he'll just drive it home. How many miles does it take to wear a wheel cylinder in half? Well, I know why the car was taken off the road now?

Anytime, glad the combo worked out for you too. I can't complain about mine, a stock clutch with 10lb flywheel is the perfect complement for a hot street-driven Z IMO. Still holding just fine after 7 years and a few thousand miles of hard pulls and quick shifts. ?

Check with @nix240z He makes these... https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4432194

77-78 plastic a pillar pieces that mount between windshield and door, 77-78 steering wheel clamshell Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Horn pad mount, the hard plastic on the backside of the black pad. I have mine jimmy rigged but it still falls off. MSA sales the pad itself but not the locking ring. From https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08d18/40-3140 DescriptionThis is the genuine, original equipment (OEM) replacement horn pad. The outer ring and word "Datsun" are chrome and the background is satin black. This is the pad only and does not include the plastic ring that holds the pad in place.

So come on guys, own up, which one of you was it!?

Door weather strip. The Precision version requires you to slam the doors. Personally, I would like to use my factory welt strips too.

My close friend works at the CDC, he was on the ground for Ebola and was warning me about covid in late December/ early January. Most masks people are wearing are 0-20% effective according to him. He laughed at scarfs, handkerchief etc... then you have people not covering your nose, wearing Half shields etc... then improper glove usage. I see a lot of shields here with no face mask, but my area only has 3 confirmed cases, so we are lucky. He said that people are being told to wear masks for a few reasons. First and foremost it helps you not touch your face. People feel like they are helping and continue to spend money and move about. Then you have legit masks that are way higher percentage. I hope they are more available soon and that’s what people end up wearing more often. I personally don’t think most of us are going to get through this without catching this virus, masks and such will slow the rate down, hopefully enough for our hospitals to give the sick the best possible chance, also every second we push it back, is a second longer for treatments etc.. But I think we need to come to grip with the fact that we need to get it, then protect the at risk as much as possible. I had a crazy idea, find out the least lethal strain, then give that to young and healthy people In a controlled fashion as a way to jump start Herd immunity. While still not overloading the hospitals, kind of like a ghetto/ shitty vaccine, but this would end up causing a lot of deaths, so maybe it’s not a great idea? But how long can the world shelter in place? I think we don’t have much longer till people rebel and or people will be broke. Fingers crossed some genius is figuring out a vaccine quickly.

I personally think Chris has the right color for your car . Bronze Grids on black !

Thanks...another project brought to you by Covid-19 ...

If you swap them the bleed screws will go to the top. If they're on the bottom that's your problem. It's a common problem.

I went with the Rota RB's (I think they're patterned after the old Minilite's) and the center caps fit fine without flattening the grease caps. I got them here, they may have two different height center caps. These are 15x7 4 offset and I run 205/60 R15 tires with no scrub at all in my stock fenders and wheel wells. Very close to stock tire height so the speedo, according to those radar things that get set up on local streets telling you your speed, matches what the radar says.

You take a hammer and tap the grease caps on the front wheel hubs until they are just flattened enough for the cap to fit over. Also be careful which caps you order, there are a few different sizes and they all fit the wheel but there is only one style that sticks out far enough to fit over a flattened grease cap. Yes I think the the rota Grids have a very clean aggressive look and soooo much easier to wash than the basket weaves I use to have.

After 12 or 13 beers with the boys at the local and then a couple of shots for the road, it probably seemed like the right thing to do.

Check the bleed screws. Pretty common for people to install the calipers with them on the bottom where they're easy to reach. But they need to be at the top where the bubbles are. The calipers can be swapped.

I think the libre's/libra's on there look 100x better than the rota's. Just lower the ride height a bit more..

ok so i replaced the cam(lunati barebones cam, (.480/.488 and 224/234@.050” 110lsa), ported the heads and did some minor other work and tuned the carb and such, added an o2gauge got new pushrods and did a bunch of work and now it runs great and drives well, has in the ball park of about 300-350 hp at the wheels, and it’s a blast to drive, spins the tires from a dead stop all the way to 60 if you’re not careful. next up is to replace all of the suspension bushings and tie rods and stuff to make the handling much tighter, really just waiting on the time to do it cause i enjoy driving it too much now to have the desire to make it better just yet... once i settle into online classes i’ll have time and i’ll get it done, and i’ll take pictures along the way. cam is still fresh so i haven’t gotten her up past about 110mph @ 5500rpm but with the setup i have it should carry all the way to about 7000rpm and 130mph without too much trouble once i get the cam really settled in. i also deleted the power steering as it would just leak constantly and would stop working anyways when it was warm, so it’s just manual steering, and having not driven a car like that before it’s an interesting experience, it’s a different connection to the road that i haven’t felt before. overall really excited for this car and i can’t wait to update y’all more! IMG_2536.MOV IMG_2531.MOV IMG_2527.MOV IMG_2581.MOV IMG_2578.MOV IMG_2612.MOV

Well another set back or two. After staring at my valve train I realized my lash pads for the exhaust were to deep in the retainer putting the rocker too close to the edge. So I ordered a larger size and will sacrifice a little on my desired wipe pattern , but should gain more clearance for my rocker . Also, my BHJ damper came in , but had defects so I had to send it back. Check your parts closely guys ( didn’t sound right did it -lol). When you are paying serious $$ for performance stuff it shouldn’t have defects. ?

It has n47 exhaust liners, round ports and 260z cam... poor mans mods.

That’s a lot of shaving to get that CR! I’m gathering at least .080 . Does the n47 have the D shaped biased ports ? Not sure there’s enough in common between the heads to compare - but like you be glad to hear it run