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1978 how I found her.

Dearly Beloved. I find myself explaining over and over again to various Z owners (all Datsun owners really) about the differences in various items and what year range they belong to. I am tired of doing so, and tires of hunting down pictures and URL's of stuff for them, and would just like to point them to a single URL where they can look up the answer to their question. What better place than our beloved CZCC forum, and what a better way to entice new members! Note this fatigue does not apply to the membership here, but mostly to the ones I try to help on that blessed piece of crap FB....... There are just SO many more soles pleading for help there, than here, I cannot but help wanting to draw them all into our little cult, er, I mean "family".... I understand this is a vast and highly detailed area of discussion, but at the very least, I would like have a basic picture library of items, one item type per thread, in a forum group I think would be aptly named "One of these things is not like the Other". For example. pictures of the three basic gas tank types, pictures of the fuel sending units from each, pictures of the three types of seat sliders, pictures of the 240, 260/280 early and late door cards (my personal bane)..... Door internal/regulator glass/frame differences, etc etc. The list is endless. I am blessed with a decent selection of many of these common items and will start this off by taking representative photos of each of the unique items I have. I will apply date ranges, and will love to have clarifications from the peanut gallery (or any fancy nut you claim represents your level of knowledge) to further refine either date application or other clarification on the topic. We will clearly label each as applying to North american, Japanese , European etc product lines, although for the beginning lets stick to the North American stuff. I suggest the new forum be in Car Talk > Z > One of these things is not like the other @mike , please chime in and let me know if you believe there is a better place or organization structure for this. Others let us know if this is something you'd like to see or contribute to.

In a situation like this, the federal side needs info from the CDC, WHO, epidemiologists, and researchers who are investigating the disease. There should be a small council of experts (who have no political directive) evaluating this information and making recommendations to the president. There should be a comparable body of people reviewing the economic situation and evaluating options for increasing access to business and commerce. In turn, the president should be talking with both those groups, and making decisions based on interactions with those groups, not based on personal whims or ego. That clearly is not happening. In addition, when the president says that if we do less testing we will have fewer cases reported, there is such an huge gap in logic that it staggers the mind. We need a major shift in logic, process, and policy making.

Have you used a meter to confirm that there is power to the proper places at the tach? My first electrical problems on my car were when I just connected wires by color according to someone else's diagram. The diagram and instructions are just a start. You need to use a meter or test light to confirm that power and ground are correct. I don't see that you've actually measured or confirmed anything, except for one post that says you confirmed "power in the wire". I also see that you, apparently, did not try adding resistance in the circuit to the tach. That would make it identical to the 280Z wiring. The 240Z and 280Z tachs function based on different principles. You can keep swapping parts but you'll progress much faster with some good measurements.

Looks clean TopaZ, that thing needs body work? Maybe a wash and some elbow grease with a clay bar, looks better than my car ha.

Here's what the 72 system (with the FLASH feature) looks like. Other than the addition of the FLASH / PASS button and the passing relay, it's pretty much the same thing they used in my 77. Point being.... I'm assuming that all the years in between are also the same, including yours. You can see that the pair of headlight fuses are not hot at all times, but are only hot when the headlights are turned on. You can also see that the headlight system has no interaction with the ignition switch at all, so the headlights can be turned on regardless of the key position. Same thing goes for the FLASH system. Also interesting to note that when you push the FLASH button, it will turn on the high beam filaments. Full stop. Doesn't matter if the headlight switch is on or not. Doesn't matter if the lights are already on in LO beam. Even if the low beams are already on, it will power both filaments at the same time while the FLASH button is being pressed. Hand drawn in all it's glory: Hope that helps!

The US cars don't have the flash button, so I'm operating without a net, but your diagram does not look right to me. In the US, the headlight fuses are not hot at all times as you have shown. The OFF-ON switch is between the battery and the fuse box. The fuses are only hot when the headlights are turned on. In addition to that, with what you have drawn, the ONLY way to get the high beams to light up is to push the flash button. I think there's stuff wrong... The newest thing I have here is the 72 manual still shows the FLASH relay, and the basic system is pretty much the same as the US with the exception that the flash relay is wired in parallel with the rest of the system and will turn on the high beams even when the headlights are not on. Would it help if I were to sketch up the 72 system?

Welcome We love pictures Casey

Yeah, your fuel gauge looks like it reacts the same as mine. Always too low. I haven't done anything else with mine (since I cleaned up the connector right at the sender unit), but I fully expect my issue is inside the tank. Murphy's law pretty much demands it. That Z hasn't come back around on my work sheet yet. I've got all sort of other car work to catch up on. Today I changed the plugs on a V6 Kluger. Including the three invisible ones in the back... That's no fun. As for the bike "teaching moment"... Very nice! Thankfully, tis but a scratch!

Just like Ty did! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBxuVQ6lrAM

Thanks siteunseen and Gogriz91 for your comments. I am excited about being a part of the community

I've purchased a few window handle clip removal tools over the years. None of them worked as well as a cloth shop rag slipped behind the handle (knob in the upright position) and pulled down until it contacts the ends of the clip. Then pulling the rag side to side will grab the end of the clip and pull it off.

I like Any One Else.

No flak from management. You're well respected in the community, Ron.

I was reading these posts and thought I would throw in my 2-c worth. From my experience the OEM 240 clocks are not sensitive to voltage but are very sensitive to temperature and contaminants(oil,dust, metal fatigue). I use two different power sources( power supply and car battery) and I have not seen the difference. What I do see is the minute the temperature in my shop drops or rises 20 degree the 240 clocks start to change. The OEM clock winds the main spring by a small motor that keeps constant pressure on the spring which drives the gears of the clock. This is all good as long as the spring is new, the gears are clean, and the temperature is constant. The bigger problem is that after 40 years all the moving parts are VERY worn and it's hard to get the clock to deliver better than plus or minus 10 min. per week. Another variable is everyone seems to think oil is required, it's not. This is a short term fix and only complicates the problem. If you really want to make this clock accurate and reliable you can. What it takes is to disassemble every part, clean, inspect, replace the worn items, and reassemble. NO oil or lubricant. Also, this should be done on a yearly basis. I know this is excessive but this clock is just like your grandfathers pocket watch or wall clocks. Grandfather clocks are accurate and had many moving parts but they were all cleaned inspected, and adjusted yearly for accuracy. The hybrid clocks, 75-78, have a zener on the power line which regulates to 7 volts so power is not a factor. The quarts clocks have only 4 moving parts that are not constantly moving like the 240 clocks and there is also a zener to regulate power to 7 or 8 volts. Ok, enough and I assume I'll get a lot of flak from this post. Ron (Zclocks)

I just received my new clock from Ron at Z Clocks. The clock looks outstanding. I will post some pictures of it when I get home. It is worth the price, it looks like I boght a brand new clock from Nissan! Thanks Ron.

Zclocks only takes one week for refurbishment and has a 6 month guarantee!!! -Ron (zclocks)

I think most people use Ron at Zclocks http://www.zclocks.com/. His current pricing is about the same, $149, but the return shipping is included. Ron does great work and restores the entire clock, including the case. He is also the only person I know that can repair the rare Z rally clocks. -Mike