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Not wishing to double post, I urge you to read my post under the link below and check your car over!! This could have had SO MANY bad endings!!! https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/check-your-steering-is-safe-please.27074/ (I hope linking to another forum doesn’t violate any rules, please let me know if it does and I will double post). Edit: apologies to the moderators, I realised I put it in the wrong place after I hit the post button but can’t move it.

Some more photos I took of the wall hanging. It's amazing and I am glad it was done in the best color ever ;)

I originally purchased this "Series 1" that I have named Sakura in an attempt to flip it. Plans changed quickly after I wrecked my 3rd owner 73 240z last year. So far I have owned this 1971 240z for a little over a year. I moved cross country at the end of last year so I have only really been working on her since the quarantine.

Also, If you need just plain round grommets you can go to something like ACE Hardware. Just measure the hole before you go.

I miss my cleaners too.

Thanks chap. So the issue I found was that the bolt was tightened very tight but from the wrong side!!! Meaning that the bolt was tightened against the threaded part and doing nothing at all in closing the clamp. I sprayed the shaft in situ when I transplanted the new engine a couple of years ago, so the rusty 1cm or so has moved since then - I am assuming I can get it back to where is should be with what you mentioned. The moral of the story was really that the clamp joint having zero tension had expanded enough (or splines / rust worn away enough) over time for it to become massively noticeable at the driver end. Just think what that would have done if it had let go on a hard 40-50MPH corner! Or worse still at silly speeds on a track with other cars around. My confidence in driving the car has been totally shaken, so the front of the car is slowly coming apart until I am totally happy with all bolts and the metal work being solid. Then I’m staring on the rear. Thankfully we have a week of sun forecasted so she can stay on the tilting lift on the driveway. I haven’t fixed it yet as I am having difficulty removing the clamp by the UJ at the bottom - which I want to test on a bench and replace. The majority of the problem with removing the stubborn bottom clamp bolt is having to entertain the kids all day, keep the peace, keep the wife happy, attempt the cooking thing, vacuum the house, clean the bathrooms, etc (God I miss our cleaners)!!

So did the clamping bolt fall out and the shaft was working its way free? Sorry, I like to know the answer first then back fill with the details. Edit - so I watched the third video and see that it was loose with the bolt in. I didn't see the fix though. I think that you could probably push your steering wheel in to get more bite on the clamp. It probably has a gap up there somewhere inthe cabin. I have vague memories of realizing that the shaft and wheel could be pulled in to the cabin once the coupler was detached. From when I replaced the the coupler with a urethane unit. I think that that is how I made space to get the old one out and the new one in. It might be a wrong memory though.

New tires for the SSR Mesh! Kumho 225/50/15.

Looks like the bearing have been cheaply replaced. Why I say cheaply? They reused the nuts. I wonder if they changed any of the seal while they were at it. It looks very good from the video. Reverse gear is still in good condidtion (the idler spur gear), but that is generally due to the reverse lock out device helps prevent accidently hitting reverse on change down in the close ratio transmissions. You can take some measurements without striping it down any further. It will take a bit of fiddling, but it can be check without dismantling. That will give you a better idea of the condition. Baulk rings: The grooves inside the baulk ring do all the work getting the gears to similar speeds. The teeth on the outside of the baulk ring do the last step by aligning the teeth. It the grooves are worn down, the gears will be at different speeds and the teeeth will grind. That is the wear that Mark is talking about, but it started at the worn grooves. Gear end play: The next thing you can check is gear end play. If you are driving and take your foot the throttle and the transmission goes clunk. That can be other things like the diff, but it can also come from the gears snapping back. While you are in the transmission, I would put changing all the seals and the oil gutter ZH mentioned on my priority list. Those oil gutters can get damaged during rebuilds and can take so much benbing back before they break off. They only cost 3 or 4 dollars. I have a list of all the seals with Nissan part numbers and sizes so you can source them locally. The check springs in the selectors would be nice to change now.

Yeah, that one was a real bonus! I was cleaning that connector with the 100% expectation that it wouldn't have any effect, but (roll eyes) I had to perform due diligence and clean it before I moved on to more difficult solutions. It was just the right thing to do. Bonus!!! Sometimes you win one! I guess I'll keep that new sender lock ring and sealing O-ring in a box on the shelf! Haha!! And buy a lottery ticket?

Did the POR15 tank seal process today. Now to let it cure. Before/after pic....

I´ll take a look next time I go to my parent´s home, again thanks for the tips. Sorry about yor dad, I wish I had more money to keep mine´s legacy going but he left several (almost too many) other cars so I´ll just focus on the Datsun (which apart from the sentimental value is a great car!) I think I´ll be there within the next couple of weeks. The only way to get into the car is trough the rear hatch until I make space to move it (it´snot only boxed in like you can see in the photos but also has a pile of old parts in front of it from years of collecting/hoarding pieces and sparts here and there. We´ll be selling most of the cars but it´s hard to even decide where to start (most of them are unfinished projects and with many parts laying all over the place) I haven´t decided a 100% about the Datsun but I don´t think it´ll be a full restoration to its original shape, what I do know is that I don´t want it to be an all out custom car either, probably more of a daily driver/restomod. I think I ´ll star by cleaning it up as much aas I can, then proceed to check the electrical system to see what works and what doesn´t, then gast tank/lines, brakes/brake lines, etc... I´ll leave the engine for later since I´m not really sure at this moment if I´ll use the original one or I´ll swap it (if I do the later, it´ll be on a basis of reliability, ease/cost of servicing and parts, etc rather than power or speed, I´m 56 Y.O. and never was much of a racer)

Same idea as a toilet bowl adjustment.

Chas, I'm the original owner of 11/75 made 1976 280z and mine did not have a fan shroud, I did not get the AC. So I think the shroud came with the AC package.