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Just seeing this. This is a really good discussion. I just wanted to offer two things. First, if you have never driven, felt, both bushing types, don't discount the possibility that people are different, ride quality is subjective, and that you may or may not agree with the consensus. For a long time I had the idea that, based on consensus, Energy / PU bushings would be harsh and that I wouldn't like them. So, I avoided them until about 2 years ago when I was refreshing one of my 240zs. For this one, and for a lot of reasons, I decided to go the PU route. I installed PU everywhere except for ...... anti-roll bar (used rubber), t/c rod, (used rubber front and back), and strut bump stops (used Koni). Springs are old schoold MSA blue lowering springs (NLA) and red Koni classic strut inserts. And, I am using the original front-only anti-roll bar setup (key in my opinion to good ride quality). I used / over used the lube that comes with the Energy PU bushings. I was really shocked by the results. No squeaks. I personally don't hear any additional road noise (or drivetrain noise). I love the responsiveness. The ride is excellent, as is the handling. Again, all of this is my opinion based on my experiences. I should mention though that I have felt harsh in a zcar. When I was a kid I installed derlin camber bushings in my 280z with lowering springs and big anti-roll bars. That car was harsh. I am too old for that now. One KEY point too regarding my 240z is the tires are 195 70 14 Vredesteins. At some point I will try 16" wheels and 205 55 tires, and see what the impact is. I should also mention that my 75 year old dad loves the balance (ride / handling) of this car and he insisted on rubber bushings when I refresh his 280z. Second, some of you know that I had a swage shaped tool made to use in a press to install the stock mustache bar bushings. My offer stands to ship to anyone to borrow, use and return to me.

It sounds like empty bowls to me. Check the float bowl level with a clear tube. Don't just measure something mechanical on the float itself and assume that will result in a correct level. You actually have to measure the level directly. Do you have the little screen filters in the carbs? Maybe they're clogged?

and that would be all of them except FOX.

Lots of progress this weekend. Got the headliner and pillar vinyl installed. Windshield and exhaust system also installed.

it can be kinda hard to hold the dvm probes on the sending unit. some jump wires (alligator clips on wires) are a handy way to grab the pins on that sending unit. Just clip onto the black wire and the yellow/blue wire, set dvm to ohms and if auto range you should get the reading. If its not auto ranging start out at the 1k setting and go up or down from there until you get a reading. Test the setup of the meter by shorting the two leads, should be 0 ohms. always test... test equipment before relying on results. this is to test the resistance of the sending unit on the bench. My sending unit was about 3kohms (3000 ohm). all the above test are done with the sending unit out, no voltage required, you are just testing resistance. The back probing I was talking about was aimed at capt obvious, the assumption is his setup is working so I was wondering what the key on/lamp off voltage was. Mine is about 30-50mV as long as the thermistor is in the gasoline. This test requires everything hooked up and the key in the (run) position. (.03-.05v), starts there and takes about 5 min to get to .250v (250mV) once there it quickly goes to 6-8v that is after its not immersed in gas (low fuel, I presume about less than 2 gallons usable fuel left in tank).

Wot he said!! [emoji1375][emoji1375][emoji1375] I do think you are chasing more than one root cause here. Reading your first post, my immediate reaction was intake air / vac leak. It has caused me no end of headaches and cost me £££s changing the entire ignition system to no avail. But once I found the leaks (yes multiple places) the car came back to life. FYI - the places I found leaks were: carb dome to main body, carb throttle shaft cap, intake manifold, brake booster vac line (the wiggly one that is NLA and hard as a rock given its age). Bear in mind my Z therapy carbs are a few years old now so the paste on the throttle shaft cap had heat cycled a lot. Take nothing for granted and check all potential areas for intake leak. The carb dome to body, looking at the diagram of its operation, should in theory not have caused an issue but boy did it improve the carbs’ operation once I made my own gaskets for them. Reading your later posts I’m pretty sure you also have a fuel starvation issue at the same time. Blow out your fuel lines with compressed air and do the things the captain and others have recommended. I have a clear fuel filter and found lots of black fish in mine. Taking it apart, i found them to be soft fish, not rust. Rock hard rubber fuel lines from 2006 (under the car where the PO had performed a hack and added lots more rubber) had started to break down from the inside. Ps. Yes that is fuel lines sitting tightly on top of the rear ARB!! [emoji33][emoji33][emoji33][emoji33]

Before tearing the car completely apart sometime next year, I’m trying to repair, retrofit, modify, optimize a few things. As the car wasn’t that nice to drive, first thing was to remove the cut springs and replace them by some new ones of the same brand. Of course it now looks a bit high, imho, but it drives way better. Cut springs had no preload at all, dampers had only about 3/4 inch of travel and the slightest compression would let it sit on it’s bumpstops. For comparision: As it sits with the new springs, the rear is OK, the front would aesthetically benefit of a slight drop. I also removed the worn aftermarket steering wheel and fitted my Nardi ‘deep’ which I had laying around. Unfortunately I did not have a matching horn button. I’m not sure what steering wheel I’ll mount after the resto, I'm tending towards a Datsun Compe wheel or a Nardi black and wood. I sourced a non series 1 driveshaft, moustache bar and rear transverse link. This is all thats needed to change the rear drivetrain to the later geometry. While at it I also changed the diff support for a hangingt RT diffmount. No more diff straps or rubber bumpers for Tosbo. In my quest to optimize the driving sensation a bit more, the car needed a rear swaybar. As it hadn’t any at all. I ordered a complete ST suspensions swaybar set from the US. And the biggie, something most will probably not understand. I got rid of the Webers. I love simple things, things that can be mended during a road trip, things that are set and forget and most of all, things that are driveable under pretty much every condition. So I removed my 40DCOEs and got myself a set of nicely refurbed Hitachi 4screws with an early airbox. And yes, the car drives a lot smoother with minimal load (under 2500rpm) and around town with the stock SU. As I had 1 240Z with SU and this one with Webers, it was easy to compare. And I just prefered driving the SU. Above 5000rpm the Webers are way better though. As for the issue with the uneven front/rear drop: The easiest way to gain a bit more low at the front an be able to dial in a bit of camber are some camber plates from SilverMine, which are in fact just Mookeh camber plates with studs mounted in the right pattern which lower the car approx 3/4 of an inch without sacrificing preload or shock travel. Mounted everything up and dialed it in at -1.6° camber and some mild toe-in. Car drives so much better with the new setup (Vogtland, ST swaybars, camber tops, excentric inner LCA bushes. Next thing needing attention: I have a slight slack and clonk when accelerating/decelerating somewhere in my drivetrain. U-joints are all good, diffmount has bees swapped to RT, engine mounts have been renewed. Hopefully I'll find the culpript. Let's cross fingers it's not the gearbox.

try this

It depends on what YOU want from the car. Are you doing it for resale? I have my car because I've loved them since I first saw them. I went out on a limb and bought a brand new 1973 240z that I really couldn't afford. Drove it to death over the next 17+ years and then got my current 'early 71 back in late 1990 to replace the '73. This one is a fair weather driver and yes, I've done mods and don't have some of the parts I've removed. Do I care? Not really because the car is the way I want it.

While it's running and bucking erratically, ease the choke on and see if the symptom changes. If it improves, lower the nozzles in 1/2 turn increments until the choke no longer improves the performance. Hesitation, under a load is caused by lack of fuel.

Jupp, did the same: wiped backwards - shat my pants - read the forum - swapped the linkage 180° at the motor - wiped the right way - was super happy - hit the road in hard rain - wiped like a boss - found out that my windscreen is leaking...

These are the specs that I have in my notes for the Nissan Europe springs that MSA used to offer (but now NLA, according to MSA's website): Front: 122 lb/in (so +17% vs the NA-spec spring) Rear: 142 lb/in (so +36% vs the NA-spec spring) For comparison purposes, my notes show Eibach's progressive springs with these specs: Front: 133 - 183 lb/in Rear: 154 - 212 lb/in And the Vogtland springs as follows: Front: 152 lb/in Rear: 170 lb/in

You may be able to get rid of the stutter by increasing the wt. of the oil. Thicker oil temporarily richens the mixture during acceleration. I always used ATF but Nissan recommended 20 wt. Do have the yellow springs under the suction chambers?

Things are moving along now. Headliner should arrive today, so should have that installed tonight and windshield in on Saturday. Also waiting for Dash, exhaust system and air cleaner.

Here is a list of the parts when I did the close ratio I had. The seals are what you want. The seals, springs and oil gutter are listed in their sections according to the parts manual cross section drawings. I think I will clean up that list and post it in the technical articles later. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf