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Original tubes thread?

If you're looking to spend some cash on a full kit with Japanese stainless fit and finish, I highly recommend the Fujitsubo twin pipe setup from RHDJapan.

I agree with that. When I first started fooling with Zs again I bought those little pin sized electrodes. They were dark like yours. The bp6es copper work best for me.

I didn’t realise pornography was allowed on this site!!!!

I'm trying to find the right size pin extractor to remove the round male pins from the connectors. The size appears to be the same as a Molex pin. (0.093" or 2.36 mm). Has anyone on here found a good pin extractor for these? I am hoping to design a headlight relay solution for the 260Z/280Z that will be of similar elegance to the solution I created for the 72/73.

Got so tired of slamming the doors on my white Z to close them that I decided to try the Kia Sportage weatherstripping mentioned on another thread here. Wow, what a difference! Door closes nicely and the door is now aligned again with the rear dogleg panel. My guess is that the metal portion of the Precision brand weatherstripping is too wide. There is no need for it to be that wide. If it was the same as the Kia metal portion, I think it would work well. Unfortunately it does not.

Got some grinding done today, sills seems pretty good except for a couple holes. Looks like the pinch weld maybe mostly intact!

BTW should there not be NGK -BPR6ES plugs in that engine... you use a Iridium type? any good expirience and wich ones are those?

Eh... guy's am i mistaken.. a gap of 0,32 inches is 8,1 mm! Just wanted to let know you must mean 0.032 of an inch... oh such fine stuff.... inches and miles... sorry ? (I'm metric..) (EDIT>> I did'nt read that last post.. there it's correct at 0,032")

Cliff, you are truly the official librarian on this forum. Thanks for finding that. I want to convert to deck because my deck is in rough shape and it’s easier to build a flat one over getting that decking to curve properly. Low priority as I need get her on the road. I now move in the new pace on the 31st. And the Z arrives shorty after. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, I documented the C-2 connector in my notes to my customer. I try to have a work plan ready for paying customers so I don't rack up a bunch of hours on random diagnostics. The white/red wire feeds many fuses in the fuse box. My customer had another shop put in a disconnect switch due to a battery drain, so I used my ammeter to track that down. (Fix the problem, and don't use a bunch of band aids.) I traced it to that branch in the fuse box, and we removed fuses to see when the current draw ceased. That took a while because the draw would come and go somewhat randomly. Eventually I found that the passenger side door switch was wonky. There wasn't easy access to disconnect that switch, so we just pulled the fuse for now since he was not worried about the dome light or other lights on that circuit. I'll have to look at the other circuits in C-2 to see if there are other indicators of corrosion. The terminal for the parking light circuit could have overheated at that connector. It's not like I haven't seen damage to a lot of fuse boxes and wiring for the parking lights. The nice thing is that he is willing to get his hands dirty and does not mind providing assistance since that reduces the number of hours I charge. He seems willing to learn, too. He was thrilled that I was willing to inspect his car with him present and give him an idea of what issues he may have. What worries me, though, is that the rear brake MC reservoir was almost empty. I added fluid and bled the rear brakes, but the car is still HEAVILY biased toward the front brakes. I didn't have time to bleed at the MC, and I plan on looking at his front brakes on his next visit anyway. If it's the valve between the front and back brakes, that will be a challenge. The rubber hoses on the back need to be replaced, and I wouldn't be surprised if the front brake hoses are in the same condition. (Heck, ballooning in the rubber hoses could have caused the problems I felt in his brakes. There are many signs of bad mechanics or idiot previous owners working on the car. It will take some money to get things right (and safe). I just want this guy to be able to enjoy his car. Somehow I get the feeling that my retirement job will be fixing S30 electrical systems in the Atlanta area.

Not really something to ad, just check for all clean contacts in wiring and also check if the new part(s) are working.. new does not mean working good! (something i got people very angry with but again.. something you have changed in a new part, does NOT mean it's working now.. check check doublecheck ? ...

Well I located my spreadsheet for the LED bulb replacement. I have a late 260Z but pretty sure all of the bulbs for the gauges were the same. I believe that all of the bulbs I purchased came from Amazon. When I decided to do this I bought a variety of bulbs to try out and I also performed a sort of longevity test on the bulbs. I had found when I did this same thing to my F-150 a number of the LED's from Amazon burned out quickly and given the tediousness of changing them in the Z I did not want to have to deal with bad bulbs right after they got installed. So far all of mine have been perfect. Also, bear in mind that I removed my green filters so I made more room for a larger / longer bulb. If you keep your green filters in my gauge bulbs will not likely work for you. Also the only bulbs I did not convert to LED's were the blinkers as I did not feel like messing with the blinker switches / relays at the time. At some point I may go back and change them too. In any case, I've attached my spreadsheet and I hope it may help you and others out. This is definitely one of the best upgrades I've done. Mike. LED Conversion 6_10_18.xlsx

You can get LED's which are not sensitive to polarity and that makes this job a lot easier. Go to Super Bright LEDs dot com and they have a variety of these for our cars. Here's an example: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-car/3/ Hope that helps. Mike.