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Folks, bored last night got nothing else todo, while waiting for parts for other stuff. my rear mirror’s mounting/base point is broken in few pieces and missing big chunk as well. Only if I have access to CNC or a 3D printer... what the fun in it? what I did was common sense I suppose. Super glue all the remaining pieces together. create a paper template. find a scrap piece of metal. Mine is very thin. Perhaps 24 gauge. trace the template and start snipping it. a press, sharp flat chisel might be better for the center opening. File it as best as you can. It’s hidden inside so long no obstruction when insert the mirror. heat treated the metal. I don’t know why I did that. Like the color. Found a piece of stainless steel but too hard to cut as it is thicker. Probably I like heat treated because I did a project awhile back on the stainless... gave a good color ? super glue the metal to the mount. Make sure holes are align. Clamp it or put something heavy to ensure good mating. The metal piece should hold everything together nicely. enjoy

My favorite “in between the Nismo and Airtex” price point and functionality is the Facet FEP60SV or 477060E. Same form factor as the Original and Nismo, internal easy to change filter too. The best price is actually from aircraftspruce.com or or .ca Installed several for friends and myself, never had one fail. My two cents for the day

Yep, my 240Z has been waiting on me for a few years now...

Common sense is beginning to squeeze in thankfully. Fear the truth isn't working in Alabama, that's bad because "we're" scared of you Yankees. I need to apologize for my bad choice of a word. I love all you guys no matter where you live. The man that lives in the WH is from Queens and he's a scaremonger. He's not scaring anybody I know. I'm sorry, but I'm pissed.

SteveJ you are in my town. I know you are itching to come put together a car!

Maybe he was thinking all Z cars were 2+2s.

Here's a good write up on installing an electric pump. http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html The one he uses comes with the mount.

Here is a picture from the parts book and that small collar is not shown. Maybe it is a part that comes with the rubber boot and like you suggest is inside the end of the small end. My car has a retainer that is between the pedal end nut and the threaded ball end that prevents the assembly from pulling through the hole in firewall. I need a replacement boot as well. Mine is missing that small collar. The parts book does confirm how the parts are threaded. I hope this helps somewhat. Cheers Mike

I use this for most black parts. It is not gloss or matte, but more of a sheen if that makes sense.

THANK you!!! I was beginning to think that nobody got that at all!!

Gave engine a tuneup. Put at least 20 hours on it afterward, no problems. Car was outside during rain. Engine started running poorly, sporadically, now runs poorly, consistently. Odds aren't bad that something came loose and slowly slipped out of adjustment. I'd recheck the points gap. The lock-down screw might have loosened. There is pretty good force on the points as they open. If they slip, the gap will close and you'll get poor spark. Could also be that the distributor has turned if its lock-down screw was loose. Check timing. SteveJ suggested the same with his gap and dwell suggestion, to verify. Then tried again with the dwell meter question. But since you never answered he moved on. Easier to check than fuel too.

It looks like you also have the rare hatch glass with no defrost wires ? Does you Z have the smog pump?

I was going to say these next pictures obviously aren't part of this build but technically I have used this to run around many days getting parts and shuttling supplies to and from this build so technically it is! Somewhere during this build thread I found this and had to have it. This was the very 1st vehicle I owned. My kids think its stupid and ugly but every time I climb into this beautiful, very slow, cramped, no AC having little pickup truck I am 16 years old again and couldn't be more tickled with it. Makes we want to score a six pack of Miller and go to the Rock Quarry outside of Athens GA to skip school and try and talk some gal into doing something she shouldnt! Its perfect!

My business involves me owning and operating a lot of work trucks. The guy who's shop we are doing this has been my diesel mechanic for going on 20 years. He has done a lot of car work but mostly on newer mustangs and old Ford Pickups. I talked him into helping me out with this car and now he has hired on some other guys to do some resto and body work in an open bay beside his diesel shop......now he's getting a paint booth after my car is done! I am pleased with the paint job. We still plan on buffing as far as I know unless they all are so tired of me at this point and ban me from the shop entirely! He's a good friend and I appreciate all the help so far even though he really doesn't have time for it. The car had a 905 red sticker on it when i bought it so I decided to go back with that color. At least I think I have that color. The place I sourced the paint from in town did have the code 905 Red in their system.....they just had 3 very different mixtures of 905 red?? Two of the three formulas were mostly orange so I picked the only one that actually had any red pigment and got a sample. It looked good to me but what the hell do I know....I've never seen a 905 red Zcar in person and there is very conflicting information on the Ultraweb. This is MY 905 Red and its cool with me.

After 5 yrs the vinyl wrap on my rear panels needed re-done. Vivid memories of wrestling old plastic panels and sheets of vinyl along with a hair dryer came rushing back so I decided paint would be much easier. Cleaning to old residue off was no fun but I'm happy with the results. Before and After.

This is what I didn't know....Those areas are definitly not the same as a 240! The original metal is there it is just covered up with other metal I can only assume was changed for some sort of crash rating law changes in 74-75? Of course the radiator support vertical panel is wildly different to go around all that mess. It is such a bonehead move on my part to spend so much time, money and effort trying to keep this thing as original as possible and restore this car back to normal. I really just picked the wrong car from the start. It looked good but I didn't know what I was looking at and the crap body work from the previous owners covered up a lot of problems. The interior was also in such good shape that I thought it was a good platform to start with. I'm sure people have done more with less and maybe its not so bad but the thought of me having cut a 260 front off and put on this car makes me want to throw up a little now! In hindsight I should have bought a better car but whats done is done and I aint starting over!

Some more progress photos. Slow progress but we finally got some high build primer on the hood and doors tonight. The plan was to have color on by end of the month but looks like it will be a week or so behind! Getting there!

Progress (which at times feels absolutely like none) is happening with the body work. I think. Though most of it ends up on the floor after sanding, I am now two gallons in on the high build primer and need to buy a third. That's going to be over $1000 in primer alone. Not how you should do it folks. Next time around, I think I will try applying body filler over entire panels and sanding down, followed by a few coats of sprayable polyester filler, followed by the high build primer (just a few coats should be needed). Here is a brief video showing the passenger front fender at the critical body line where it starts just above the wheel well opening. You can see that there is some distortion in the reflection, indicating some more work to be done here. Not quite there. Much of the rest of the car is getting to where it needs to be however. I have been spending time as of late, working on additional panel fit issues. The cowl panel is a bit of a challenge. Because it is just a single thickness with no backside reinforcement, the large, flat areas in the front corners are susceptible to moving up and down very easily. Before final sanding is done on this panel, I will be sure to replace the foam that resides underneath in these areas (proper thickness is important) to allow for proper location of the horizontal surface. Then final sanding will be done to make these areas nice and straight. Inspection doors were hand twisted/straightened for near perfect fit. These again, are made from single thickness metal sheet with little in their construction to hold them to shape. Heights of fender top surface, cowl panel surface, and inspection doors were all massaged to make them line up. I actually had forgotten to fit the gas lid prior to doing body work on it, and laughed at how bad it was when I test fitted it to the car. Quite a bit of hand adjustment was necessary to give the right profile curvature to match the quarter panel appropriately. Passenger side door panel gap (with rebuilt hinges is looking good I think):

They should thread off. Open end wrench on the flats of the ball joint. Flare nut wrench on the lock nut. Maybe a little penetrating oil, little prayer. Then turn it loose. Once the locknut is loose the bolt joint should unthread. You should measure first so you can reassemble to the correct length. Double check the threads direction. I believe they are lefty loosy but maybe not

I'm leaning (snort) to a fuel problem. I've experienced similar symptoms and found them to be water related. If you have any clear fuel filters, check those for water. I'd also pull a float chamber top to see if there is water in the bottom of the bowl(s).

Went over to Vancouver Island on Sunday and spent the day on a cruise with a bunch of Datsun folks, it was a enjoyable drive. Everyone did the social distancing thing. @zKars I think you would know most if not all of these cars and their owners.

Everything is interchangeable if you want it enough Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll need to mess around with the spacing a bit, I was too eager to hear it through the freeway tunnels to get it perfectly set. But no, it isn't too low at all.

Hey thanks - cool - 1st JDM muffler fitted to an S130. Not too low ?