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Are you ready for the photo flood to start? Day 1 (or is it Day 0?) https://photos.app.goo.gl/xLN3ymszPDNSx87j6 This morning https://photos.app.goo.gl/UxdKfupPw7E6ZDyh6

The L28 is i think the most wanted z engine at the moment (of the L series), also a reliable engine. Over here i would buy it in a flash! For that price, only a good gearbox is more expensive than that! You plan to rebuild it.. if it was stored dry and sometimes turned and oiled.. it is very possible to NOT rebuild it. also.. nobody can look straight through the engine or gearbox, so it's always a gamble. Look for damage and wear, a bad cam says a lot of miles and a expensive rebuild..

I believe you and I are about the same age Steve. Not too young, not too old, just right. Enjoy your stay and keep those photos coming please Sir. Cliff

What's worse: you saying that, or me immediately knowing where that came from?

Apparently if you double them up they are safer ......

I can design the box to flow correctly, really this is just a fun project. Lots of info about air needed for HP. I honestly like the looks and sound of raw stacks.

The expensive ones are for the early cars and the cheap ones are the superseded part for later cars.

Who would have thought that mainland China could have f'd up ZCON.... 邪恶的中国

Is it running now? Sounds like you are using the stock configuration of points. So you are using the mark that is on the farthest to the left (passenger side of the car). There are two points of adjustment on the distributor. The 10 mm on the firewall side of the distributor (photo below). the other is on the opposite side closest to the front cover and is an 8 mm. Both give you some adjustment that will affect the timing. Remember rotating the distributor only changes the timing not TDC. I assume TDC is a point half way between when the piston stops rising and when it starts to fall. Mark each and then split the difference. Mark your balancer or move the pointer if you can. My timing is currently set at 6 degree BTDC

Another thing to think about. There are two ways the ignition / distributor timing plate can be adjusted. First is the obvious way we all use to loosen the set screw on the back side of the distributor and then rotate the distributor so that the timing plate hits the Retarded or Advanced line we want. That plate though fastens to the bottom of the distributor with a set screw that screws up into the bottom of the distributor and the hole in the plate where the screw passes through is slotted and adjustable. If you loosen that screw, you can "macro" adjust / rotate the distributor. What I usually do is use the normal timing adjustment set screw (on back of distributor) to adjust the timing plate so that the distributor points to the middle line (not retarded, not advanced). Then, I start the car and check the timing with a timing light. If the timing mark doesn't line of with the TDC mark on the damper pulley, then I try and adjust the "macro" timing adjustment by loosing the set screw under the distributor and rotating the distributor....trying to get the timing light to show 0 degrees advance or TDC. Once done, I tighten the set screw under the distributor. Then, I adjust / advance timing to spec using the normal timing set screw on back of distributor and timing light. If you can't get the timing in range then you may have a slightly more involved issue. As ZH mentioned, could be damper slip. Could also be the oil pump spindle gear is off- See FSM and Monroe book for details on setting engine to TDC (compression stroke) and checking the spindle direction (with distributor removed). Monroe does the best job describing a method for installing the spindle and turning the oil pump body 1/2 a bolt width clockwise while passing the spindle gear into the crank gear.

Slow progress over here @siteunseen half the battle was keeping water out of the car! HA. I have to make the wiper sub-harness as my car was missing everything in the engine bay..... but the way the relays are wired up in the diagrams throws me in for a loop. It will get a respray.... eventually ?

Could be that your damper pulley has slipped. I assume that the engine runs and you are adjusting timing on the running engine. And that your timing light is connected to the front, #1, cylinder. Does the engine run well? You could remove the distributor lockdown screw and keep turning the distributor if you think that it runs better the farther you turn it. Idle speed will increase as you advance the timing, typically, if you're in the range of 0 to 20 advance. Might just be the old oil pump drive shaft alignment problem. Forgot to ask also, is it the original points distributor?

Sounds like a 77 or 78 engine. Is it a 4 speed, 5 speed, or automatic? Was the car a coupe or a 2+2? The propeller shaft lengths will be different between those two. The extras for the engine are where a lot of value could be. ECU, AFM, alternator, ignition module, distributor, injectors, fuel rail, FPR, throttle body, BCDD, manifolds, EFI relay, etc. See if you can get a list of the extras and their condition. If the seller has been selling off parts piecemeal, the engine might just be bare-bones and expensive to put back together. But if it is complete it will probably add up to a good package deal. If the engine was running when it got hit and the guy stored it in a dry garage it wouldn't be a surprise if it cranked right up and ran after some simple work. You don't have a location shown so hard to guess about the weather there.

Everything he said [emoji115][emoji115][emoji115][emoji115][emoji115][emoji106][emoji106] Unless there is a visible crack with water / oil seepage marks it’s virtually impossible to know without taking it apart and testing.

No. I plan on some sort of stack filters. Maybe someday something like this

Some people got preferred paking in the hotel.

Dang! It's really bad out there huh? The wiper motor cover especially. Burnt your wipers off too! Kidding friend. I know you're enjoying that Z. Cliff

Two loves chasing each other...

So we sold mommas blue 350z a year or so ago when she got a company car. Yesterday we made a trade. I had this 2004 6.0 turbo diesel Lariat 2006 350z plum, automatic She looks really crushed, doesn't she???

So disappointed that the modified gland nuts do not get the job done . Even modified I only have 1-1/2 turns on the gland nut . Still showing 6mm of nut . They only machined off 2mm when they should have done 4. Called MSA - and it’s basically my problem . It’s my fault that the strut tube has a factory weld bead at the bottom . I could somehow grind the weld down at the bottom of the tube - yeah . So these modified glands are not a guarantee that these will fit your early Z . My car being a 9/71 isn’t that early - but early enough I guess . Now I get to pay a machinist to modify the modified gland nuts that are supposed to fit my year car - woohoo. Not much sympathy from MSA , they just sell the shocks .