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and you either have an exceptionally large bladder or you peed outside a lot!!!

Remember the vans with carpet on the dashes

Disco was cool? I dropped a marble between the passenger's window rubber scrapers with the window down. Being a single parent we/she listened to that thing roll for 10 years everytime the speed changed. It was the shortest funny thing i ever did. That $^!# got old real fast.

Zedhead is on the money - my original braided hose from the thermostat housing to the carbs blew and I had the most beautiful and dramatic under-bonnet recreation of Jellystone park! That is what turned my attention to the question, do I really need this superfluous water routing!? As for the Y pipe, I kept mine but blocked it with some 15mm copper pipe plumbing end stops. They are just the perfect diameter to hammer in and for good measure I added a tiny bit of solder - which really wasn’t necessary but I sleep better with it there! Spray the whole thing with silver VHT paint and it looks the part! [mention=23570]Siteunseen[/mention] - nothing wrong with a functional engine bay! It’s how she drives that counts!

Yeah, a lot of individual parts "say" just 31000 miles, but to me, it looks like someone spent a whole lot of time trying to achieve that. Like @inline6 above, I've got a whole host of "Yeah, but then why does this look like this?" situations all over the car. He hit some of them, but I've got others as well. Things like: Dented frame rails, control arms, and floors. Impossibly shiny clean yellow paint marks gratuitously applied on rusted hardware that has had the original plating stripped off. Many other hardware pieces where the original plating has been stripped off or painted over with silver paint. Adjustment witness marks on things that just should never have needed to be adjusted like the door latches. Smeared screw heads on things that should have never needed to come off a 31K mile car like the hood prop arm. I see a well kept Z wearing a well done, but many year old repaint. I see a beautiful Z that I would love to own, but I do not see a survivor.

5 daughters? You needed a small school bus for that basketball team.

If a Harley doesn't mark it's spot something is wrong.

The back seat faced the back window and my daughters would fight to sit back there. There is 5 of them "daughters that is" and we would get some funny looks because of the stunts they pulled back there. Not a seat belt in sight😁 Good days I loved that car. Casey

I like to do easy experiments before big jobs, if I can. You might take that rod you used, tie a rag or something to the end of it, put a blob of Red-Kote on it and plant it on the metal that you can see. If it peels right off after it dries you might have a problem. If it sticks hard you'll know you're good. Or just drop a blob of Red-Kote down there and see if you can peel it off with that metal rod after it dries. Just an idea. I like the sealer concept for pinholes, not so sure on a pinhole-free but rusty surface. Just me though. Seems like you can take a tank that works and create one that doesn't, if things go wrong. With pinholes you have a tank that doesn't work and you just end up with the same thing.

That worked as a cap? Looks good and closes up the potential bug/spyder nest. Cool! I'll do the same when I do it. I found a spare Y pipe today to get ready beforehand.

Nice car! It has cleaned up well. Love the race car too. Have you ever raced in in Spokane? Seems like I saw it at least once at Festival of Speed. In the FWIW department, this car is the closest production number to mine that I have come across. Mine is 57009, built 12/1971.

Ah, the good old days of the 70’s - the days when disco was cool and you could fish GI Joes our the back of the car!! My wife and her brothers used to drop pennies through the holes in the floor of their Datsun on the motorway and see who’s would bounce the most! BTW, was that thing able to go around corners at anything more than 20mph!?

Dude, that's genius! Now I'm going to have to do that. Thank you???

A Small carbide burr in a Dremel (the second from the right, ball shape) will be able to eat away at the extractor. Get real Dremel ones if you can, or from a trusted shop. Lots of cheap "carbide" crap out there. I threw all my extractors away. Never ever had one work for me. Drill the broken bolt out then re-tap or heli-coil. Yes it's tough to drill in the center.

Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Not completely sure of the years of application, but it looks like this. The heat sink thingie on the right is the DBW actuator. And here's some pics from ebay, etc. The connector has six connections in it. I'm assuming the TPS feedback element is built into the same section, so some of the wires would be for DBW and some of the others are for TPS feedback. So maybe you could move the actuator over to a different throttle body, or if there is enough meat, maybe you could bore this one out to your liking?

I wanted to ad.. why all those gardenhose clamps, get yourself some good (original) clamps. they are much better. Those are used in planes for good reason.

We are such trusting souls here Well the 240 doesn't look too bad at all, very straight forward.👍

We had one of these and a Sheep Dog in the early 70's. "Barney" would start in the front seat and chase occasional objects to the back when passing. It had a rear window that opened and 3rd row seats in the very back that faced the back. We used to tie fishing line to GI Joes and drag them along the highway.

My very typical old school Brit of a father in law always asks if it’s a boy or a girl so that he knows whether to buy a shotgun or a pony. I contend that in the girl scenario, you most certainly need the shotgun for interviewing prospective boyfriends the correct way! 5 kids!? Let alone hormonal teenage girls under one roof!?!? Dear God! We have enough trouble with two little man pups constantly killing each other. Frankly I’m in awe of anyone with more than two!!! On that scenario, I can see how Golf becomes a necessity!!! The good news is you’ll get 5 times the love when they’re older. Those Saabs have forever been cool and continue to be. They were bloomin quick in their time too. Always loved the engineering ethos of Saab, shame they couldn’t remain commercially viable. [emoji22]

Hahaha you had me going, that’s exactly what I thought when I saw the photos! Ryan

Now you see, I was going to say something like "Wow... The underside looks way worse than the topside." but I didn't want to potentially insult your (or your car). It looked disproportionately bad under there, but I bit my tongue and tried to keep it functional to hide my disappointment. I won't make that mistake next time.....

Deer's Leap on the backstretch. My car would get very light there.

Well I tried to play a bit of a joke on y'all, but there must not be too many people cruising the forum today. Anyway, I'm surprised neither of you was sharp eyed enough to notice the pictures aren't of a 240, but rather a 280, the 77 that came with a set of Panasport wheels I bought from the neighbor 18 years ago. And yes, that is some serious rust porn. Rust porn that would make Ryan @240ZBUILTBYME think he doesn't have it so bad after all, eh? So here, is my 72, down and dirty. HLS3056539 1972 240Z by Racer, on Flickr HLS3056539 1972 240Z by Racer, on Flickr HLS3056539 1972 240Z by Racer, on Flickr HLS3056539 1972 240Z by Racer, on Flickr HLS3056539 1972 240Z by Racer, on Flickr They undercoated these cars quite aggressively at the dealers back then, and I think that is what has saved this car. It has very little rust, a bit around the battery tray and the firewall/frame rail/ floor pan and some evidence that the right frame rail will need replacing before too long. The doglegs, lower front fenders, and a small area on the left rocker panel have some bubbling forming. I'm not going to get real exited about repairing any of it at the moment, but rather focus on getting it running well and safe to drive. I plan on driving it for a couple of years, and then address the rust with a full restoration, top to bottom.

I loved Westwood too. Down that short hill, pulling multi G forces at the bottom was the most fun for me. Lap after lap, going down that hill, I kept believing I could enter that left hander faster than the previous lap. That theory worked well for a few laps until I went off on the left turn exit. Regretfully, I never felt like I mastered that off camber downhill right hander. I loved tracks with elevation changes.

Thanks. I have learned some things the hard way for sure. I like this sanding block a lot: https://www.eastwood.com/contour-rigid-sanding-board-2-75-in-x-17-in.html It is comfortable to use with both hands for hours at a time. Even though it was designed to use non adhesive type paper, I have been using adhesive backed. The rubber "pad" on the aluminum is hard/tough enough that when you pull the adhesive paper off, it doesn't damage it. The sand paper I have been using comes in rolls. I have been getting most of it from TP tools. I have also been using some 3M "red" rolls that I get locally at a body supply store. In general, I have had good experience with epoxy primer on bare metal to start before applying filler. Light sanding with 80 grit and then applying body filler was done next. Then I used 80 grit on the body filler to shape it, followed by 120 grit on the body filler to get a smoother finish. 120 grit scratches are a lot easier to cover up with primer (or sprayable polyester) without sanding scratches coming though later. Then, I recommend you depart from what I did and spray several coats of sprayable polyester filler, and then block sand that with 120 grit until flat. Then, I'd recommend going over it once with with 240 grit to put a smoother finish on it. Similar to before, the 240 grit finish will fill better when you spray high build primer over it. Then you can block again with 240 and repeat primer spray, and sand with again with 240 grit until you have perfection. Then, you should switch over to 400 to 600 for remaining finish work. It is widely agreed upon that before you put down color, a minimum of 600 grit should be used. That should be safe - the color will fill those scratches so they are not visible. This is true for base coat/clear coat (2 stage), or for single stage paints.

Submerge it in CLR for 24 - 48 hours (Thanks @wheee!). It will come out looking nearly pristine.

Something I find odd is the plating on most of the parts in the engine compartment looks like it is silver? I would think the parts should look more like the green car that sold for $310k. When compared to that car, lots of things are... different: Front bumper rubber strips installed without care to keep the embedded fastener from torquing/twisting the rubber so it is not straight tape lines on the back edge of the driver side door and front edge of driver side quarter panel? tail light trim panels and license light painted black? rear bumper rubber dry rotted and cracked? rear license light cover distorted from heat (usually an indication of lots of use as heat from the bulbs distorts the plastic over time) "adjusted" driver side door latch receiver (pic 152) wear on brake and clutch pedal pads (pics 159 and 160) no pics of driver or passenger floor jute - most of it appears to be missing shift knob looks like a replacement nos item instead of the original ones. Compare with the $310k car. Why was that replaced? rear hatch main rubber seal - dry rotted rear hatch jute missing/condition of pieces that remain silver spray painted rear hatch latch careless damage to air filter cover by banging against brake master cylinder bleed screw during removal not original air filter cover bolts condition of original(?) cloth weave heater supply and return hoses condition of plating on hard lines driver seat upholstery distortion/seams starting to come apart (seat on passenger side) lack of blue paint on block... missing original Nichira center resonator and pipe Nichira rear muffler looks like a possible nos replacement? Engine compartment really doesn't compare well with the high mark green car. I think the car is nice, but it doesn't look like a 30k mile car to me. Maybe it is, but spent a lot of years on a carport where it wasn't as protected by the elements as in a garage?

I'm fairly negative on this car and just don't see the comparative value with a few cars I have seen on BaT lately. The speedometer is my tip-off. I simply don't believe this car has 31,000 original miles. I'm guessing that the speedometer has been replaced or the odometer set back. Picture 110. Why would the face plate on the speedometer shift like that on a car with only 31,000 miles? And did you read about why the heater is blocked off? Because the previous owner didn't want excessive heat in the cabin? I smell a rat.

There are several really good build threads on the site that should have enough pictures to walk you through. Look at some of "motorman7"s build threads

A few more because... why not! Looks pretty mean with the air dam installed. Ignore the rear ride height, the rear doesn't have coilovers installed yet.

Oooooow, that's some serious rust porn, are you thinking about supporting the car on a frame jig to make sure nothing shifts while doing the repairs?

I salute you. Mental faculties intact under those conditions is exceedingly rare. Even basic survival is to be commended.

I have very little hair for a reason. 5 teenage girls in the same house at the same time. Those days I don't miss.

I was a teenager when our neighbor got one of those land yachts in the early '90's so I never got the joy of being ferried around in one. I have Scandinavian parents so we had a fleet of these growing up. Many still run, no more parts.

I used Silent Coat mass loaded vinyl on the floor with some 3mm closed cell foam over the top. Works beautifully and gives a cushioned feel below the carpet too!

Casey and Reptoid: wow those are wardrobes on wheels!!!!! The funny thing is, when I was a kid growing up in pre-Islamic revolution Iran, those were everywhere and considered quite cool! The big Cadillacs were also ultra cool as we used to teqvel long distances from one end of the country to another in total luxury! Dutchman: that is a seriously cool bike! [emoji106][emoji106] It really is the two wheeled equivalent of a sofa on wheels. One of my fond memories of working in Holland was the CRAZY large multi-sorry bicycle parks!!!

Over here, THIS is the sofa on wheels.. And.. yep, this gem is mine.. Ps. the spot under it is water.. i've never seen a goldwing with oil under it! you'll need a italian or english bike for that ! 😁

1978 how I found her.

$35 for 10 minutes...cheaper than a trip to the casino and more fun. Dennis

I finally got the correct fuel fitting from japan to finish my old school looking fuel rail. I love how it turned out! I had to have it re - zinc’d since the Mikuni and my plater color didn’t match.