Leaderboard

I've never seen an oil scraper made for an L28 engine before so thought I would post it. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/markham-york-region/280z-crank-scraper/1537652171

I would clean everywhere the adhesive will be applied. The weatherstrip side and the car side. On the car side a solvent designed to soften and remove the old adhesive would be the best, and shouldn't be harmful to the paint. A plastic scraper comes in handy here too, as it shouldn't damage the paint.

Try cleaning the silicone off of the weatherstripping using isopropyl alcohol. Silicone is used as a release agent when making rubber products, and adhesives won't stick to it.

Well, that's one thing I didn't mention. I did take it back and explained the symptoms. They adjusted the slave cylinder rod at the clutch fork and changed the transmission fluid and drove it around the parking lot a bit and claimed it was better. Yeah, that doesn't give me the warm fuzzies either. Anyway, I've been communicating directly with the service manager and he told me point blank that if it isn't better after a couple of weeks that they will drop the transmission again and replace that bushing. What worries me is that the master tech might be out of his depth on this. He looks like he is 25 years old. To be fair, now that I am in my mid 40's I think anybody under 30 looks like they are in high school...lol.

Haha!! Guilty as charged! So I'll have to install some data collection software somewhere to hook up to the gauge. It certainly won't be to my phone...

That is another phosphoric acid product. After it has done it's thing it has to be washed off with water, if it dries on the metal it has to be reactivated and then washed off. There's another thread going right now about the pros/cons of certain acids.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Then I would simply wipe it with some clean solvent, and then follow with a clean, dry wipe before the solvent dries, to ensure there is nothing but the fresh paint. And of course a good wet wipe, dry wipe of the rubber stuff, with the alcohol. Don't use rubbing alcohol, it has too much water in it. Get isoprpoyl alcohol. Then apply the adhesive to the car, and install the weatherstrip. If done right, the weatherstrip should bond instantly, or within a few seconds, so be sure the placement is correct.

That actually looks very clean. Not really worth doing more to. If you start using a detergent oil most of that will clean up as the engine runs. The brown color isn't from overheating it's probably just from blowby, combustion byproducts that have deposited up there. Not hurting anything. The brown color on the cam lobes is because the anti-rattle springs keep the rocker arms off of the cam base circle if the lash is set correctly. There's no rubbing there, which is good. It's also a good sign that you don't have any sunken valves since that will reduce the lash. Can't remember the year of your car (you should create a signature on your profile with information), but sunk valves were a problem before about 1976. Check the notch and groove on the timing chain sprocket to get an idea of timing chain wear. Make sure the tight side of the chain is tight and the timing mark is on zero.

Many good things come from a drawing on a napkin. Though in this day and age, that napkin might be a program. I am working on learning Sketchup but my son uses something more sophisticated. Still, since I'm only learning Sketchup, I had to draw things out on a napkin so-to-speak. Before you laugh, Heinrich Nordoff and Dr. Porsche who were brothers-in-law and the Directors of Porsche and VW respectively, drew up plans for the production of the joint effort 914 at breakfast on a napkin. A real napkin! Sadly, Nordoff got sick and died and the new director of VW didn't recognize the agreement which ultimately made the VW/Porsche 914 too expensive and doomed it's production to 2/3 years for the 914-6 and 6/7 years for the 914-4. Here is how I'm communicating with my architect son. Don't laugh. There was no attempt on my part at scale!

You're welcome, son. I've been reviewing your posts and want to compliment you, too, on your brake line installation. Great job there as well. I wish the Mustang was as clean as Dottie; I had to run lines through small passages in the fender wells, between the K-frame and chassis, and against other immovable objects. Having torn out the original lines six years ago didn't help, either. Good thing for the internet and photos I took before disassembly. Dottie is looking really nice.

i have a question. I have been working on the hatch weatherstripping for the Goon. It is pretty much done now but I am not impressed with the bond, If I wanted I could peel the whole thing right back off! The adhesive sticks to the paint pretty good but not to the rubber seal. We have been using the black 3m weatherstrip adhesive and the 3m fast drying adhesive. Both seem to do it. Part way through I wipe the weather strip down with solvent to see if that would help but I couldn't tell that it changed.

My main beef with phosphoric acid is not one of safety but with the active rust that is still under that layer of black iron phosphate, eventually it pushes back up and bubbles the paint. For me I've found it's just easier to keep working the piece until it's down to bare metal.

All of that stuff is phosphoric acid based. Ospho, Naval Jelly, etc. All creates a barrier of iron phosphate which helps deter the formation of rust in the future. I would have used a phosphoric based compound, but like Granny mentioned, the citric is so much safer. I mean the phosphoric isn't really that bad, but the citric is safer. That said... I did have a couple parts that were really bad (like an ashtray). For those parts, I did resort to the phosphoric stuff spot treatment method. Then once most of the rust was off in the worst spots, I put them in the citric bath with other parts.

Good call EuroDat. I ended up cutting a slot in the agreeably soft aluminum of the new housing. Upon installing, I found that it went in past the slot anyway. I thought maybe I had installed it too far in, but it works fine, so I left it. Speedo works, no more leaks!

Thanks, dad. I thinks it’s good enough. Any more and it would look... wrong.

Considering it's age and the attempts you made to bring it back to original appearance, I think you've done a great job. Looks very nice, and the small imperfections will be hardly noticed, unless you point them out. Good job! 👍

I've been doing a lot with LED's lately. At home I have about 20 wall sconces that use a mini halogen bulb with a T11 socket (mini-candelabra). Over the past few years of buying crap bulbs off Amazon (the Junk Kingdom IMHO), I finally found a vendor that produces a decent LED. I had the same experience, some bulb manufacturers build with cheap components and they don't last more than a year. Although all of them claim up to 5-10 years, most of them fall way short. If you are looking for a common brand, Feit Electric seems to have some good ones. Of all places, I found the best mini-candelabra bulbs at Home Depot. An LED bulb is similar to a mini-computer. It uses a circuit board, voltage converter, resisters, and of course the light diode. If any of these components have gone through a 'cost cutting' exercise by the manufacturer (common in China), then you'll see a reduced lifespan. The LED strips are powered by an external power supply. If you buy a good quality unit, you may see improved performance. But, again, if any part of the LED computer has low-quality components the entire thing will break. You definitely get what you pay for. In the case of this article, I highly recommend purchasing a computer power supply with the gold standard. It will cost a bit more, but, it can handle the sustained output of the strips and has clean power. In the case of your situation with EGLO, they may have been a good bulb at one time. However, I see too many times where companies outsource their manufacturing without even thinking about quality. Either they've sold the business to Chinese owners or they simply moved their production overseas. This is a massive shame because it sounds like they lost quality, and your trust. China can produce good products... just look at that phone in your pocket or TV on your wall. Only a company concerned with their reputation can make that happen.

Well, There's good news and bad news. The good news, Kathy was exposed to Covid-19 by another volunteer last week. She was tested yesterday and received the negative results back today. She'll be quarantining one more week. The bad news, There must be some kind of memory scrubber in the infrared thermometers the stores are using to check customers temperatures. I went to the store yesterday to pick up milk, and bread. I came home with beer, donuts.

Way off topic alert- Smooth as a bowling ball down there but love fur coats.