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I have to stop reading threads like this. Now I'm considering getting an AFR with a wideband and a 4 channel data logger. I could probably rig up the sender on my fuel pressure gauge to give me a signal, and I can tap into the TPS. ARGH! You guys are evil. I don't need to go down this path, but now I WANT to!

1973 Datsun 240Z Parts or whole - $950 (Raytown) https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/d/kansas-city-1973-datsun-240z-parts-or/7237380548.html The seller is located near Kansas City, MO.

Coming to this party a little late, but if you're interested in option 3, I have some spare AC parts from a 77'. I'll have to do a little digging, but I know I have magnet valves, copper line on the passenger side , a couple of condensers, interior faceplate, maybe the mechanicals, but I'm not too sure of the rest. PM me if you are interested and I'll probe a little deeper .

I never thought I would see one of these on BaT, 1957 507 coupe, this is the holy grail for BMW fans, very sweet. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1957-bmw-507-roadster/

Howdy fellow Newfoundlander! If you lift up the rear carpet and the passenger side rear inside plastic panel then you will see all the fuel vent hoses that can rot and make the cabin smelly

Put some new plugs in it, and try it. read the plugs after 100 miles (and listen to the engine for odd noises like backfires).

That explains it! Thanks as usual Dave! @siteunseen thanks for the share. Reading through now. It's great having you guys around because a lot of the older posts link to images on Geosites which are no longer active. Great to have all of the knowledge. Always appreciated guys! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the input guys. I was thinking I would put mine in the glovebox for now as well. I'm still hoping to get a couple weeks more driving out of my car before the season ends though. I don't want to go dropping the exhaust now. It won't be long before they salt the roads and I'll do some of this work then.

Check out these sexy as oz made frame rails I got my hands on...

Here's a thread I remembered. Might find something?

Here it is in situ

Good job. In my books, it is the ONLY way to properly home tune your car and half the price of a rolling road. IMHO even better than RR as you see what the afr is doing in the real world under real driving conditions! I also installed mine into the glove box, but with long cables so that I could pull it out and stick it on the windscreen when I use it.

you should NOT be able to go from 5th to reverse, the reverse lockout mech prevent that. You have to shift into some other gear (besides reverse) to clear the mech then you can go into reverse.

First gear is 3.321 in the Z and 3.062 in the ZX. The ZX is usually paired with a 3.9 diff, the Z a 3.54.

@siteunseen Good suggestion. I pulled the shifter before I left and it looks like there isn’t any damage. It’s actually less grimy than the shifter currently installed on the 280z 5 speed that I had planned to rebuild this winter so I grabbed it haha. (Photos below) Will pick up the ZX trans this weekend. @Zed Head the boot and center console were already missing so I could see the shifter area though I didn’t check to see if anything was blocking the shifter. It felt like I couldn’t find reverse. Where I should be able to push right and down, I couldn’t feel the slot. When I would push over from 5th to R, it would slide back into 4th.

Those were MY good old days. Hotel room with the Tyson fight, bathtub full of iced down beer and girls, girls, girls.

This seems to fit these crazy times. Make America Mike's Again. https://www.mmafighting.com/2020/11/27/21723193/tyson-vs-jones-jr-weigh-in-results-mike-tyson-outweighs-roy-jones-jr-by-over-10-pounds

"The kung flu is a hoax." "I'm the president! Don't talk to the POTUS like that" He knew a guy that had a 240 I'm sure so it's okay.

Wow, twenty grand for a high mileage car (at least 168,000 miles), with a recent scuff and blow paint job (and a color change), and an L28. I wonder what head it has on it. There is rust bubbling up on the cowl panel, through that two year old paint job. The leather seats are nice though. Giv s that twenty grand feel.

Which microcontroller were you planning to use? I got a few ESP8266 that were intended for a different project. They have built-in wifi modules, perhaps they can be used like a relay to forward the data to a computer. After seeing this thread earlier in the week I ordered an AEM wideband AFM, as I had the exhaust off the car. looks like I need to mess with my floats a bit. 😬

That's the great thing about owning an old car. There are LOTS of learning opportunities.

Document the process carefully. Take lots of photos. I'm curious, too. And let the people you work with at Nostalgic know that people are watching and interested in Datsun solutions.

I agree with mr Racer 100% on this. I have had so many tell me I had an exhaust gasket leak but I do not. You can hear things so much better with header runners it sounds like a leak but isn't. Do the short section of hose as a stethoscope and you'll hear all 6 sound the same.

Update for you guys. I created a bypass switch to enable high-altitude mode using a standard flip switch and two spade connectors (one plugged into each of the plug's 2 sockets). I gave it a quick test and it seems to be working (after confirming continuity). If your bypass switch is working, you will notice the following with the car warmed up and any vacuum line unplugged: Switch on: the car should have a fairly noticeable stumble Switch off: the car should have a mild stumble if at all

well if you happen to come to O town to see the mouse, give me a call. One last thing I thought of, does your wire harness support the AC as an option. I will see if I can get some video of mine this weekend, just the AC stuff that is.

Thanks Racer - it’s good to have an experienced opinion on it. I also worry I have a slight leak still somewhere! You’re most welcome. Your compression readings are in the ball park for a stock engine and it’s good that she starts without issue. Assuming you are using the stock needles, I can’t imagine 1 turn down would be rich, if anything it’s a little too lean. I had a similar issue twice: first time, the idle was too rich and fouling plugs. Second time, the carb to manifold nuts were loose, causing an big vac leak. Oh and then I discovered that the diaphragm in my vac advance canister was completely dead, sucking air into the manifold! Have you checked the 4 nuts on each carb and all the manifold nuts for torque? Also take off vac advance pipe from the manifold side and suck on it to make sure you don’t have the same issue as I did. Finally, check the brake booster vac hoses to ensure: 1. You don’t have a split somewhere and 2 they are sealing with the jubilee clips.

Absolutely right! Loving how that inspection lamp came out!!! I geeked out on my box of shiny bits ... Obviously my wife was delighted with me laying it all out and labelling on the kitchen counter! Does anyone else here think we need to get a life?

The black coating did not come easily with a finger. Came off with the wire wheel on the grinder, but even after that, the metal seemed to have a darker color to it. However, all that said, I just got the parts back from the plater, and it did not seem to affect how the parts looked after plating. Of course, I'm just looking at the yellow chromate coating and not the zinc underneath, but the parts look great. Couple small issues, but overall, I think it was a success. Everyone loves pics of boxes of newly plated parts, right?

No, no, no... No apologies necessary! I ended up with the benefit of knowledge! The scary part now is I'm thinking "I could program up a little microcontroller to do that easy!"

Yes, I did have issues with rusting after it came out of the citric acid solution, and no, the fact that it was chelated didn't do anything to prevent it. I started this whole process near the end of fall when it was still in the 80's in the afternoons and sunny. At that time, I would dump the hardware jars into a bucket, take them inside and rinse them off in the sink. Then take them back outside and dump them all on the hot black driveway to dry. It seemed that the faster they dried, the better the results (makes sense, right?). But I ran out of calendar time, and by the end of this process, it was in the sixties and there wasn't much direct sun to dry stuff on the driveway. So I set up a three stage rinse bath: 1) Pick out a part or two from the citric acid bath and shake it around in a bucket of clean water. 2) Move it from that bucket into another bucket with "cleaner" water and shake it around. 3) Move it from second water bucket into a small container of methyl alcohol (methanol). My thoughts were that a) it evaporated faster than water, and b) water is miscible with the alcohol so it would go into solution and help get H2O off the surface. Then after all that, lay it out on the semi-warm driveway to dry. That process got me through the end of the parts and the cooler fall days. Most of the larger parts got a quick wizz on the wire wheel after that just because I heard they looked better after plating if you did that. I didn't do the small hardware stuff because it was hard to hold. And yes, I zinnnnnngggged a couple parts across the yard. Only lost one piece in the end, and thankfully didn't put anything through any windows. Yes, it was a PITA, and yes it's done.

I’d love to see that with a body-color roof.

tnx for the reading material. im on the zCarDepot placing order for injector, CAP, Rotor & new basic NGK plugs.

Posted and sold within an hour on OfferUp. Just missed it. No idea how much it went for. listed of $1.00 The seller only posted this "Dad passed away just getting feels make me an offer" I expect someone got a great deal. Near Tacoma WA.

Also the shape of the S30 Z cars requires that all of the seals on the rear half of the car be in good shape or your gonna get lots of fumes

A chap here tuned nearly the same engine so perhaps we can compare your set up to his to see if there are significant differences. If the smell of gas is from the car then you may have the same issue with EFI. There are a few gas hoses that pass through the cabin that age and release fumes. We can guide you though checking. The DCOE carbs also have fuel bowls vented through the air filters so that can easily fume out a garage where you store the car. An air box may reduce that smell.

Until I read the last few posts I had forgotten that my 1970 240z HLS30-01955 for 46 yrs has the VIN of HLS30U01955 The correct VIN was stamped in the usual 3 places on the car but it was registered with the U inserted in the same place as @Datsunbat. The car went through 5-6 owners in Ontario and no one noticed, not even the M.O.T. It was only when I sold the car to guy in California that the transport company noticed it. They told me it had to be corrected before the car got to the border or it would be held in an impound lot until it was. I had to hire a certified appraiser to come and examine the car and send his documents to MOT before they would issue me new ownership papers.

I sent him a PM and reached out. What seems to be the issue. I will do whatever I can to help you out. May have to be in the evenings when the kiddos are asleep, but lets work out a time to meet! Send me a PM of the issues you are having and let us start from there! ? Always happy to help out a fellow Z guy! ?