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The Golden era of cars? If the 1970 240z came out today, would it be the $3500 car it was then? Not talking the techno advances, I'm only discussing it through todays lens. Would such an international sensation like the 240z be only worth ($19,000) in todays money? I hardly think so. The 400z, or whatever its going to be called I would imagine is going to set you back at the very least $50,000. Maybe its not fair to not judge the tech aspect of the car, but a new car in 1970 was just that, a new car. What can you get for $19,000 today that had the inspiration the 240 had, crickets. I was really hoping that the Toyota FRS was going to be the car that came to revolutionize like the 240z did, but I dont think is landed. It has all the earmarks the 240 has, cheap, looks, manual, rear wheel drive, cheap to operate. I owned an RX-8 when they first came out, and I was really thinking Mazda hit out of the park, and then...... So where will the new Z fall into, a couple of years of "hey, theres a new Z"!), and the find them on the used market for 50% value in a couple of years? The New Beetle had the same fanfare, then splat, then the New New Beetle the same, then splat, and remember, the Beetle (old) is the most popular car in history, and VW could not capitalize on it. I guess the point is, the last 2 generations have deemed cars as not what my parents or my generation (I'm 47) has made them out to be. So, when you watch the popular car auctions, and someone pays $185,000 for a really nice Hemi Cuda, is there an investment there, is that money well spent for a future that may not have an audience for such machines?

Up until I swapped to EFI last year, I was using a BMW diesel 4 bar pump and an Aeromotive bypass regulator. Now I'm on EFI, I'm using a BMW diesel 4 bar pump and an Aeromotive bypass regulator 🙂 The fuel pump has done about 200,000 miles, so I think it's good on the reliability front.

That 507 would look perfect parked inside my custom gargage next to my 300SL Gullwing currently being polished by Scarlet Johansen wearing a string bikini 😆

You know Z wants it.

If you don't have it already, the 77' FSM (available here on CZC under downloads) has 77 pages about factory AC. It will be great for referencing the parts you're looking for. For instance, the diagram on AC-29 shows the refrigeration lines and components in the engine bay. AC-60 shows the AC components in the passenger compartment. The FSM is a must for everything else you will want to know about your car in detail. edit to put a link in for the FSM. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

I never thought I would see one of these on BaT, 1957 507 coupe, this is the holy grail for BMW fans, very sweet. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1957-bmw-507-roadster/

Thanks- @chaseincats I guess that confirms what I wrote; “I know nothing about the F.I. on the 280Z”. Have to say - even in 1978, I’m surprised they sent the level at 3675ft. - given California is 282ft below sea level in one place and 14,000ft above in others. Perhaps its more an Emission Control thing for Calif.

When I was looking at high pressure pump options I found that older Ford trucks used two pumps. One to pull from the tanks and one to pressurize the EFI system. The high pressure pump was mounted up under the driver's side firewall, and the supply pump was in the tank I think, or close to it. I don't know the specs on the supply pump but I'd assume it would be low pressure. Might be worth digging in to.

Ok, so I have a little nugget for any other wagon owner out there... So this is the factory gas cap. Pretty much unobtanium. The last one I saw a year or two ago in Japan for $350 or so So this is what I'm working with The cap is obviously very visible and it would be nice if It pretty much filled the space. So I was googling around and I found a thread, I think it was on "The Realm" that mentioned a Stant gas cap. A G26...so off to Ebay It fits the filler neck fine and appears to seal Once I had the G26 you can find the vehicles it is supposed to fit. 57'-61' Chrysler, Dodge, DeSoto, Plymouth station wagons. Bingo!!! Then started looking for locking gas caps for those Marques We have a WINNER!! Merry Xmas to Cody... It has that factory applied red paint ring on it. It doesn't match and I may try to strip it off and polish it. We'll see after he gets it...

And a free throwout bearing and sleeve! Looks like a Z shifter, not a ZX. Is that yours? Hope they knew what they were doing, it's been worked on. I'd file some new flats on the fill plug, clean up the area around the threads and squirt some penetrant on there. Then hit it with a torch or heat gun before trying to remove it, and the drain plug. Do it while it's together, it's hard to generate leverage when the cases are off. Who paints their transmission red?

Good points, and clearly something to consider. The golden era of automobiles was the 50's, 60's and early 70's. The evolution to electronic everything in an effort to reduce exhaust emissions and squeeze every last bit of potential out of a gallon of fuel has changed the automotive scene in a strange way. Most cars these days are disposable appliances, that when worn out, or obsoleted out, are cast aside in favor of the latest electronic gimcrackery. Having recently discovered the modest gold mine I am sitting on, I have found myself wondering how long it will last, where it will peak and at what level. But rather than fret about the future value of my cars, I think I'll do my best to enjoy them. I never started the car thing as an investment anyway, rather it is a passion, something that gives great satisfaction and rewards.

TZ, I would probably rebuild that item but it worked like a charm. Just my obsessive nature I'm sure... The squirrel didn't get out until I unpacked. I wanted to just evict the little bastard from my garage but my wife named her. Now I'm stuck with the damned thing!!! Thanks David!

True life. Was looking at the drain plug and filler plug are stripped. 😞 good news is that I am able to get it into reverse. It’s a little more difficult than other gears, but it will go. Will take it apart this week and post more photos

If I were doing this, I would remove from the rail after the fact. Provided the rail is being trashed. I would grind the rail off the bracket so as not to lose any material off the bracket. Make good dimensions first, of course

One thing I feel like I should mention first - there is a filter IN THE FUEL TANK. At least there was on mine (early 74) If your inlet in the tank is restricted, you can't expect the pump to do much about that. They want to push the fuel not pull it. I had Captain obvious modify an adjustable non-bypass regulator to make it an adjustable bypass regulator. If you go that route you should eliminate the restriction orifice in the stock fuel rail. So that sums up the system as a whole. Pump back by the fuel tank, internal filter removed from the tank, pre-filter before the pump, modified fuel rail with the restriction removed, and a bypass regulator that I keep at about 2psi. I isolated the pumps with rubber grommets and such. The Holley Red was easily heard over an MSA twice pipes exhaust! So I switched to a Carter P4070 better, but still loud. Both of these pumps are overkill for a stock-ish motor IMHO. I too am looking to get a lesser pump that isn't as freakin noisy as the two previously mentioned. I guess on the plus side I always know if the fuel pump has power!

You won the election but now your 4 years begins.

Yeah I suck...and I own a 69 in that colour... what do I know.

so i decided to prioritize painting the car, so i’ve spent the past 3months or so doing body work and trying to get most of the body straight. given that the car is an expression of myself, i am keeping certain reminders of past mistakes as momentos of what the cars beginnings were in my eyes. would other people think it’s dumb and makes no sense? yeah, but that doesn’t matter to me. overall the sbc swap i have has been running good, but leaks/burns a lot of oil, so sometime around christmas i’d like to put new heads on it (my valve guides are roasted and swap from 305 heads to a set of aluminum heads could bring upgrades) and rebuild it to replace every gasket and see what condition the internals are in before i start trying to make a lot of power out of it. the car at the time of this post is in primer, and it will be painted after i’m satisfied with the body and the shape of the primer. after i paint it im gonna put a decent set of tires on, and do some alignment parts. a set of camber plates for the front and for the rear i know a company that will be releasing parts to allow adjustments of the rear(camber, toe, wheel centering) I’m not supposed to give out a lot of details but when it’s released i’ll make a post about it cause i’m pretty sure it’ll be the first available alignment kit for the rear of our cars. overall i’m happy with the build and i’m excited to paint it, and put a fresh windshield in it. i’ll update this post again after it’s painted and i take pictures of the paint!

This excerpt from the FSM should explain it a little bit:

What amazes me about many of these aftermarket pumps is how often they undershoot their rated pressure. I put a fuel pressure gauge on a 240Z with the Facet labelled version of the K&N pump. The mechanical fuel pump was bypassed. My gauge was reading about 2 PSI. (0-15 scale) In my own experience, I had good results with a Holley Blue and a Holley 12-804 regulator, eliminating the stock rail. However, that is because I have an engine with a Maxima head that does not have the window open for the mechanical fuel pump.

I've got very little direct experience with the whole fuel pump thing, but since I'm planning some evil carb mods with my new motor, I'm going to have to get involved with this as well. And with that in mind, I'll be watching your progress. So one thing to watch for is... Does the pump require some minimum amount of fuel to flow in order to keep the pump itself cool? If so, you must use a bypass style regulator and shunt excess fuel back to the tank. However, if the pump doesn't require cooling like that and is designed to be able to constantly push against a "mostly closed door", then you could get away with a dead-headed arrangement. I've heard with my own ears two of the aftermarket pumps and they were loud. I'll see if I can figure out what they were. My buddy put one in his car and the drone made him crazy. He replaced it with another brand and it still drones, but not as bad as the first one. Maybe @GGRIII come in and tell us what brands he used.

I would hazard a guess that all 4 of those pumps were made in China, the only one I wouldn't buy is the K&N, it looks like a fish tank pump.

At least three, if you count the 432-R. The show lasted just over two weeks, and most of the major exhibitors moved cars around/switched their displays a little whilst it was taking place. With over 1.5 million visitors, they probably wanted to maximise the viewing opportunities. Nissan's circular rotating display stand and the 'Grand Prix' wall certainly saw some car switching during the event. That's a great blog with some really nice photos. Thanks! This might well be the same car, visible behind the Sunny in one of the other display sections:

240z260zSUJetDepthCompTool.xls 240z260zSUJetDepthCompTool.xml

Rear diff carrier frame welded up And bolted in place

I can't tell what the component is from that distance, so I'm not a lot of help there. However, I CAN tell you that the schematic posted above is for the earlier 240 tach with the inductive pickup, and it is not applicable to the 280 version. So not a lot of help there. Can you take a closer up shot of the cracked component? Will your camera focus that close in? And can you take a pic of the circuit board bottom that it solders into? I might be able to figure out what it is by looking at the circuitry. Maybe. Might be able. Maybe.

I think that the "teal" component is a varistor. The resistor labeled "temp comp" in the schematic. It is physically mounted right next to a resistor. As the current thru the resistor changes, the heat dissipated from it (the resistor) changes (it will be affected by ambient air). The resistance of the varistor will change with the temperature of the resistor and allow for an accurate tach reading. You can try holding a heat source (solder iron, heat gun) near the component while measuring with an ohm meter. See if the resistance changes.

How many Z432 displayed at 1969 Tokyo Motor Show. One or...two? Here the photo from 1969 Tokyo. Pure yellow. Found here: https://4travel.jp/travelogue/11638925

I have been dreading this repair. Trying to figure out why my passenger window won’t roll up. I got so lucky on this car. Zinc is somehow still intact on my series 1 door internals. I can’t see any real rust. I think the front slide is frozen. That’s all that is wrong.

Check out these sexy as oz made frame rails I got my hands on...

Welded the angle onto the front cross member frame, drilled holes and bolted in place bolted gearbox support frame into position, this was a bitch... not a lot of room to work with. If I had my time again I would move the uprights closer to the middle and shorten the top horizontal length as this frame will probably be annoying when I replace the floors.

Front diff carrier frame welded up and bolted in place