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I agree but I also think we’re starting to see inflation hit all sectors of our economy and I don’t see it slowing anytime soon. Think about the cost of everything from milk to lumber it’s on this rise. This is one of the consequences of expanding the money supply (QE, quantitative easing) and low interest rates. We are on a dangerous path with 27 Trillion debt, and a contracting economy under Covid. We cannot stay on this trajectory for too long before we break the system. New car prices are insane (I just bought one so I can speak from experience), classic cars are places people see where that can possibly protect your $$. Putting it in the bank is stupid because interest rates are less than inflation so you lose money putting in a savings account, precious metals are through the roof, stocks really high and real estate approaching and surpassing in some markets 2008 over valuations. So it makes sense that classic cars will see a commensurate increase. Things are not getting more expensive, your dollar is worth much less today than even a year ago. Hold on for the wild ride....I see white water ahead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all I've been trying to find a source for LHD steering rack bars and pinions, I'm having a batch made here in the UK, they're about 11% quicker than the racks in US spec cars, effectively bringing them to a euro spec 'quick rack'. prices are in £240+vat. Thats for a new rack bar and pinion. if you'd like one, as there's an minimum order, i'd have to get a deposit(50%) as I don't want to end up with a garage full of rack bars! Most of the racks i've had apart have shown wear/loose spots on. Any interest on here?

Boy Scout prank, 1965.

Again, it's most likely the fuse. One of the idiosyncrasies of the headlight wiring is that there is one positive to each headlight and two negatives. This is why a bad fuse shows up as a dim headlight. Here is a breakout of the circuit with arrows to show current flow with a positive to negative convention. Treat the filaments as resistors for modeling what it wrong, not as coils. Most of the current going through the right headlight is going through the high beam filament, to the red/black wire, to the high/low beam switch, and on to ground. However, the saying "Current follows the path of least resistance" isn't really correct. Actually MOST of the current will follow the path of least resistance. Some of the current can find an alternate path to ground. It goes through the low beam filament, over to the low beam filament of the left headlight via the white/red wire, through the high beam filament of the left headlight, and out to the red/black wire. The high beam of the right headlight sees enough current that the brightness appears normal. Meanwhile, the left headlight has about an amp flowing through it. If you were to measure the voltage drop across the filaments you would see something like this (with a 12VDC source): Right High Beam: 12VDC Right Low Beam 4.55 VDC Left Low Beam 4.55 VDC Left High Beam 2.90 VDC Light output falls off drastically with voltage (https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2019/06/piston-slap-droppin-knowledge-on-headlight-wiring-voltage-drop/), so that is why the left headlight is dim with the loss of the left headlight fuse. If you don't believe me, do this test. Find a 240Z/260Z/280Z that has stock headlight wiring (no relay conversions). Pull one of the two headlight fuses. Turn on the headlights. @Randalla I suggest you try my suggestion first. It is EASY to change a fuse. Change the left headlight fuse.

Something about this new ad seems not quite right. Not sure what, exactly.

Two issues: 1. No low beams: The high/low beam switch is not making contact on the low beam setting. Sorry, I don't have it documented about taking it apart to clean/repair. 2. Dim driver's side: The headlights have a common grounding point, so unless the connector at the headlight is badly corroded, it is unlikely to be a ground. Check the fuse for the driver side headlight. Most likely it is blown, so the passenger side headlight is backfeeding through the driver side headlight. Several years ago, I documented how there is just enough current for you to see a dim headlight with a blown fuse.

If you know basic electronics and can take apart and reassemble a toy then you can fix it.

@moelk Great thanks for the info 🙂

Fresh water is just hooked up to my houses faucet. super simple

Mmmmm. I flew my wife in on Christmas day, had prime rib, baked potato and asparagus at the hotel.

That can be problematic. My state requires you to title a car within 90 days of purchase. I bought my Z with a open title and it was a small nightmare getting an NC title. All I had a was a open California title that was over 15 yrs old. I had to purchase an indemnity bond and then have the vehicle inspected by a local police detective. They wouldn’t inspect it unless it ran so I was under the gun to get it running. Hadn’t run since 1998. Made it happen because of help from the wizards on this forum. She’s finally mine, much to my wife’s disappointment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Head bolt remnant. That pile of rust was in there also.

Thank goodness for copy and paste! That's a lot of BS.

Another 71, original vintage. Probably has a high reserve, check out the cost of recent service. Gonna have to go through that invoice.... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-156/ A $13,182 service performed at SZR Pro of Houston, Texas in July 2019 included the aforementioned brake and interior work plus the following, as detailed on a four-page invoice pictured in the gallery: Changing the fluids (engine, transmission, clutch, differential, coolant) Adjusting the valves Replacing the front and rear main seals Straightening the oil-pan flanges Re-coring the radiator Replacing the water-pump bypass and other hoses Replacing the drive belts, fuel filter, and hood seals Replacing the battery and battery cables Replacing the clutch pilot bearing and transmission tail seal Replacing the differential pinion seal and cover gasket Replacing the exhaust system

No. The HEI would replace the Transistor Ignition Unit (TIU). The ignition relay takes the burden off of the ignition switch. Instead of all of the current for circuits powered in the ON position going through the ignition switch (and decreasing the life of the switch), most of the current goes through the ignition relay that is cheaper and easier to replace should it fail. Your measurement has no meaning without context. What position was the key in? Which probe (positive and negative as plugged into your meter, not color) was touching where? The white/red wire should have 12VDC to ground all of the time. The black/white wire should have 12 VDC to ground with the key in the ON position. (Notice that I say "to ground". This means the negative probe of the meter should be touching the chassis of the car. You can use an unpainted bolt connected to the body for this.) If you are touching the negative probe to the white/red wire and positive probe to the black/white wire, you could see -12 VDC displayed on your meter if the key is not in the ON position or if the ignition switch is bad. The black/white wire at the ballast resistor is electrically the same as the black/white wire at the ignition relay. For the ballast resistor, the black/white wire runs from the ignition switch, through connector C-3 (and C-2), and over to the ballast resistor. If you have the key in the ON position, as I said in #2, you should see 12VDC to ground on the black/white wire on the ignition relay. If you do not have 12VDC to ground there, you will likely not have 12VDC to ground at the ballast resistor. At that point, it is likely that you have a bad ignition switch.

Hi, I found some photos of my original Z, 1971, Redwing. When I got her from the dealer, she had 7 miles on the odometer. I was scared to death to driver her home after dark, I had never driven anything with any power. I'd had a VW bus! And the radio was playing the song "D.O.A". Anyone remember it? That was scary in itself. Needless to say, I got over that quickly, with my beautiful car. The color one was before we left, of her sitting right by the front to door, grinning in delight, anticipating the trip. And the black & white photos were when we (my son & myself) were camping. And yes, I packed all our camping equipment in her deck. I drove to Mt. Washington in N.H., where we climbed the mountain, the highest peak in the eastern U.S., 6,288 feet. Amazing trip travelling on the Blue Ridge Parkway for a lot of the trip, with all those curves! Oh yes, I zoomed her all the way. Wheee... Thought you all might get a kick out of seeing these. Jai

Dear JSM... My oh my, you guys assume that Z cars should only be owned by MEN. Not so in this case. I am a 74 you old, waiting by the phone right now for my first great grand child to be born, LADY who has had Z's all my life. Well 2 that is. My first, a 1971 240Z- Redwing took me 259,000 miles. Did you know that is almost exactly the distance to the Moon? Yes I drove to N.H., and climbed that mountain, with my son alone. No one else. I asked on the CB if I could follow a certain semi thru NYC, he said "sure if you think you can keep up". When we got thru NYC, with me still tailing him, he said "lady you are a bodacious driver!" I thanked him saying "I always wanted to be a racecar driver". His was one of the finest compliments I've ever had, made my day. Ha! And, we wore seat belts from the first moment, driving her home after my purchasing her! Sooo, now you have the straight poop.... Should I sign it Rock'in Grandma Jai ???