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Its 5 o'clock somewhere!

But doesn't the ratio effect the input torque required to turn it? I know in every other application gear ratios and torque required go hand in hand. Probably had to do with the steering wheel being on the wrong side of the car in the UK. With the stock width tires on the S30 input torque on the steering wheel is manageable but since most people that own these cars have increased the tire sizes, input torque becomes a valid issue. That is why you see kits available for power steering available now.

In addition to smoothing out variations in piston position. the damper prevents the piston from rising too quickly under acceleration conditions. The delay in the piston rise temporarily richens up the mixture just like an accelerator pump would. So the accelerator pump function may not be direct like the Weber's pump, but the intent is the same. There's a brief note about the function on page EF-19 of the 72 manual. There's probably other (maybe better or more detailed?) in other years FSM's, but that's the one I put my finger on first. And to answer your original question about the springs... The springs would affect the mixture under all conditions, not just acceleration. The thickness of the damper oil would only have an effect upon increased engine load, but the springs affect everything.

The way I read it is the geo piers have crossed the man child and now have to agree to the higher stimulus amount. A unintentional backfire when they play with him/fire. He's mad at his own tow line. Maybe him and ms Pelosi will share a cigar in the round office before jan. 20. A dry disgusting Cuban.

Another Harbor freight guy here with a Pittsburg 3 ton low profile rapid pump. Lifts to almost 20" but weighs heavy, something like 80lbs or so. Has not failed on anything in the 6 years I've had it. I think I paid something like $79 or $99 on a Christmas special.

I have the Daytona 3 ton, long reach. It's the one with the foot pedal on the back. It's a really good floor jack, and the foot pump makes it easy to get the saddle positioned by using your hand on the foot pedal to get the lift started.

Harbor freight Daytona 3 ton $200 on sale is a great jack.

CO is spot on.,,, obviously You can increase spring pressure or simply add weights on the piston top in the dome to also reduce the lift/increase fuel pull as needed. Some thoughts: Would SU work best if piston attained max opening at max torque rpm? Would SU work best if piston attained max opening at max HP rpm?

I think it was basically a miniaturized version of the original. Wherever it came from they did a poor job on it. The old heavy one was smooth as silk, the new lightweight one was buzzy and tended to wear out quickly. If I recall right the old big six was a 235. Not sure, the internet suggests a 261. https://www.enginelabs.com/news/mighty-chevrolet-stovebolt-six/

I had a 67 Camaro for a while. I thought it had a 250 straight six but maybe it was a 230. I think it had a 3 speed manual. It was actually a fun little car, kind of like a Z, with the small engine. I'd had several muscle cars before I got it, GTO's and Dodge Dart Sports, and a 63 Bonneville (muscle in a big body). The straight six was kind of neat because you could work on the lifters through a plate in the side of the block. I had a bad lifter but couldn't get it out of the bore. Eventually traded the car for a Vega and a 55 Chevy pickup truck. The 55 had the old big straight six, which was actually a super smooth running engine. Better than the later model straight six, I think. Good times... https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Camaro/1967-Chevrolet-Camaro.pdf

The 454 was never offered in a Camaro. The SS396 was the only big block Camaro, in the first generation car. Other engines in the '67 to '69 Camaro were the 230 and 250 cubic inch inline six, the 302, 307, 327 and 350 cubic inch small block engines. The 250 cubic inch inline sixwas the base engine for the second generation Camaro beginning in 1970. The small block engines available were the 307 and 350 cubic inch engines. The Camaro SS 396 had the 396 cubic inch V8 starting in 1970 (the 396 cu in actually displaced 402 cubic inches, yet Chevrolet chose to retain the 396 badges) was discontinued after 1972. Two 454 cubic inch engines (the LS6 and LS7) were listed on early specification sheets and in some sales brochures but never made it into production. By 1973 the federal emissions standards had choked the life out of the Camaro. In 1980 the inline six was replaced by the 3.8 liter V6 as the base engine. The third generation Camaro, introduced in 1982 saw the 151 cubic inch 4 cylinder engine as the base model. Other available engines were the 173 and 191 cubic inch V6 engines, and the 305 and 350 cubic inch V8 engines. The fourth generation Camaro, introduced in 1993, had the 207 and 231 cubic inch V6 engines, and the new generation small block 350 and 346 cubic inch V8 engines. The fifth generation Camaro, introduced in 2009, saw a rebirth of the powerful Camaro of the early days. Still having a base model with a 3.6 liter V6, other available engines were the supercharged 5.3 liter V8, and the 6.2 and 7.0 liter normally aspirated V8 engines. The sixth generation Camaro, introduced in 2016 is available with the 2.0 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine, 3.6 liter V6 or the 6.2 liter V8, either normally aspirated or supercharged.

I ended up ordering through the walbro website. walbro 393 The other Bosch filters are nice but the walbro sending the fitting with the filter with free shipping and no tax is a peace of mind type expense. I searched hard for bosh but with the expense of needing to add a fuel pressure regulator it didn’t make sense. Plus half of Bosch pumps are in tank not inline. There for if you run it you may over work or over heat the pump itself causing it to malfunction. Thanks for your input guys wouldn’t have found that with out you’re help!

I see. The senate is dominated by the Republicants, and it sounds like they are against the $2,000, so it isn't a sure thing yet. On the first go around I got the $2,000. Last July I maxed out (the union contract provides for a jump to the top of the pay scale at 6 years). So even if they do approve it, I make too much now.

Potus said go with $2,000. Both parties voted it in the house. Now the senate votes. Their person who must be obeyed says vote yea leaving the 2 in Georgia with egg on their face as they voted nea many months ago. I hope they do it, I've already got something to buy that'll stimulate my local economy. If they vote it down trump will scorch them out of office through shitter, I mean twitter.

I just rafted part of that river in WV this past July! It was amazing!! 😄

Wow, $37,000, for a "vintage" racecar with no vintage racing history. My 71 Z has been a ICSCC and SCCA production based club racer since 1979, and has logbooks (2), to establish racing history. When I first got the car in 1989, SOVREN said I couldn't run it in their vintage events, as it had no vintage racing history. Those vintage guys must have lowered their standards. Oh, and my welds look much better, and lots of coffee has been consumed over the years during late night thrashes to get it ready to race. But John Coffey never touched it, and probably didn't even know it exists.

Fantastic! Glad you found it. No calibration. About the only requirement (other than a decent fit with the body when the hatch is closed ) is that it touches the seal all the way around and doesn't let exhaust in! I worked on a friends car few weeks back. Bad exhaust smell, maybe the worst ever. Checked and or plugged all the usual holes. The worst was that wide trim panel under the hatch with the 10 fasteners. It was warped and nasty. Replaced that, and still had bad fumes. I did check the hatch seal weather strip, it was brand spanking new and installed well. Finally, I put a piece of letter paper over the seal at the back and closed the hatch, then tugged on the paper to see how tight the seal was against the hatch. Well the paper fell out on its own. Got down there and looked into the hatch area and saw daylight!!! Lots of it! Holy wind tunnel Batman! Turns out the slam panel had been replaced during the recent restoration, but it was done wrong. It was flat and positioned too low. Seal never had a chance to touch or seal most of the way across the back. Had to resort to adding a good 1/2-3/4" additional foam stick-on weather-strip to the underside of the hatch so that it touched the seal when the hatch was closed. Far from ideal, but how do you fix that without making a real mess?

no, the ratio is changed. Unless you're suggesting the Americans were judged to have weak arms by the Japanese in the 60's and that's the reason they got such 'soft' cars?