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Whatever she wants!

May I recommend the Crystal 2.0 hood from Optrel. In a really good light, the lens is so transparent I sometimes forget I've already flipped it down. The problem is, I've also fallen for it the other way 'round. I thought it was down, and it wasn't. Damn it! When you're using MIG to weld these bodies, you have to pulse-fire it. Without auto-darkening, you'll go crazy, so the squeeze eyes shut trick lets you get the job done, at a cost. Which I submit is much, much higher than the hood cost. My wonderful wife took pity on me and gave me the hood for Christmas last year. Along those lines, I used to know a painter who would smoke and shoot at the same time. Can't wear a mask if you're smoking, right? What could go wrong? He has to "retire" in his forties. Never saw him again. I'm pretty sure he was impervious to the chemistry of the paint we were using. 🙄

Seems as relevant today as it was in the 80s. Change some names and whatnot around but basically 2020.

Don't forget the Fava beans!

Chianti.

Finally got the car up on the rotisserie, I had to make the mounting brackets twice because I thought the center of gravity was higher up than it really is. I'm going to bend up and install all new gas and brake lines now before the paint is done, I learned my lesson on the last car. It's not too bad underneath, mostly it just needs to be taken down to bare steel again, I can raise the rotisserie a few more inches to clear the roof if I need to but this position with the rain gutter touching the floor gives the whole thing a firmer feel to work on.

In My Life (Remastered 2009) - YouTube

You're getting a lot of advice about the fine details to get that last 10-15% of power from an engine. It looks like you are starting with an L24 and have the option of buying another L26. Both factory stock engines, maybe?. It will help you to define what you want the engine to do when you're done. You can spend a lot of money on parts that won't help you reach your goals. Plus the money you can spend removing or modifying perfectly good parts to install the unnecessary parts might be wasted. The parts all need to work together. Expensive pistons that never see more than 6000 RPM are probably a waste. High CR with poor fuel is a waste. A ported head with a poor exhaust system is a waste. You started your thread with machining a head, but machining a head should be in the middle of your list of things you need to do to reach your goals. You need a plan first. Plus you need to know the quality of the parts you're starting with. If the L26 has already been bored you won't be able to use your L24 pistons in it, for example. But you might be able to use the L26 crank in the L24 block. Example. Since you're limited in finding parts and spending money, many of the suggestions made won't be reasonable for you. I'd get the parts and see what's usable. You might find cracked heads, trashed cylinders, damaged valves, etc. Don't spend too much money until you know what you have in front of you.

I remember visiting a friend in high school with another buddy and messing around with her dad's arc welder. They were doing a down to the frame rebuild of a 63 Impala. He started trying to weld with the "close your eyes" method. I left before he did and didn't see him in school for two days. He was blind from burned retinas. It cleared up but I'm sure it was a scary time.

C&H have a new Facebook page (dated 2019) which announces that the operation has moved from California to El Paso, Texas. Jim is still mentioned as one of the contact people.

Chester / Herod is what I have for both my cars.

Pretty happy about that but then it was only on the road for 8-10 yrs, the other 40 yrs it has been sitting in one dry garage after another. Something that is interesting is, this rotisserie I bought was built and used once for a 240Z resto and the length is almost the same within a few inches of the bumper mounting holes for the 510. I wonder if 240's and 510's were on the same assembly line together and both using similar cradles?

Hey Guys, Hope you are all having a nice and safe weekend. Some update from the project, the original rear bumper openings are now deleted, as well as the muffler cutout, to get a very smooth rear end with the 240Z style bumper. I had some corrosion in the spare tire well, which is now cleaned up, and I might add some drainage holes to prevent it from happening again. The last strengthening piece on the left front end is now welded: And finally a preview of the upholstery: Seats to be completed by end of the week, getting impatient !

What wine would you suggest with a furry little nut eater? Red or white?

A few parts I have had a hard time finding for my 1971 240z rotisserie restoration and would love to source either from OEM or a faithful reproduction of original: Carpet jute (dark color, correct thickness, etc.) Carpet (best option that I have found that is currently available) Differential rear crossmember washers (upper and lower) with the rubber bonded on them Rubber bushings for the steering rack A quality windshield without the non-factory blue tint strip across the top Antenna... and/or antenna parts Dove tail receiver (bolted to lower part of door latch receiver) Shift knob Hub caps Hand brake handle

Ahhh, but by buying a thicker gasket, you are defeating your purpose. By buying a Stage III cam, you are improving the package. Why God created money!!! 😳

Totally dig the Hulky Green color with the bronze rims ! Super nice job done, definitely some inspiration for my own project ! Thanks for sharing all this !