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Good news first, DAT307 is siiiiiick ! The car is finally back into its original color and this is beautiful ! Under carriage + interior + engine bay are done, clear coated as well, and today marks the start for reassembling the suspension/direction/brakes 😍 I also finished the dashboard assembly, and... Damn son, these red needles are popping, and my custom speedo/tachy faces are as expected ! Now just praying for the lighting to be following up. I noticed the Tachometer needle need to be readjusted slightly on the 0 and I inverted the Volt/Fuel Gauge housing (upside down)... In the meantime, the body panels are getting prepped. All weatherstrip will be installed to do a mokeup of the panels assembly and finalize the alignment to perfect the body lines. Now onto the less good news... When removing the oil pan for painting, we span the engine on the support and one of the header bolt fell off... I don't know for how long it has been broken for, but we had to remove the 13 others to get the thread cleared (luckily it came out easily so no need for insert). I ordered a new set of header/block bolts, obviously not available locally... I already have the gasket in the kit I purchased previously, but bolts might not arrive before the 17th, which is a bummer... Second bad one is that the Prothane bushing kit I got is, as well know for, not perfect... and the 4 (actually 4x2) bushing to be placed into the 2 supports for the rear diff are too small diameter, so there is a LOOOT of play. I am having some spacers made out of Nylon or Delrin for the time being and will see to get replacement from another brand, if necessary. As a relief, the rear diff. cover has been ceramic coated and looks fantastic ! Rear suspension were almost reassembled yesterday and the front are following closely. Also, the amount of spare parts and boxes is slowly reducing =D I received my 6-1 header from Motorsports/MSA, will have the black protective paint removed and a real thermal resistant paint applied, then goes the wrap.

Sorry about that, thought it was clear. I installed a new fuel pump and the intermittent stumbling problem appears to be solved. Did richen up the front carb during tune-up, which appears to have fixed the detonation I was hearing. Only issue now is I need to get the OEM fuel pump rebuilt so I can return to the stock look. New fuel pump off the shelf is an ugly one.

Sorry to hear you're having the same problem @Sailor Bob, but at least neither one of us is crazy (or we both are). I had to re-read the thread to remember, but it seems to me like the issue isn't actually the pressure plate or the collar, as I was getting the proper 92mm stackup. The problem seemed to be that that my pivot ball was too short. I'm not sure how it's possible, as @240dkw's pivot measures the same on the bench as mine but a few mm longer when installed. Some kind of local space-time distortion is the best I can figure (or measurement error on my part, whichever makes more sense). Adding an extra 4mm of washers under that pivot ball brought the distance from the tip of the ball to the front face of my bellhousing to 105mm (@240dkw's measured 103mm). The transmission is now installed and I've been driving the car every chance I get. The clutch feels perfect. I'm hopeful you can solve the mystery, but if you get tired I recommend just slapping two 2mm washers under that pivot and see if that fixes it for you.

Yep, that's what I did to bolt it back on. I follow a similar sort of pattern as head bolts, alternated back-and-forth, starting from center.

Well that seems to be a simple solution. Still heavy winter here so i still have a couple of months to get it sorted out. Thats only one issue on the way to roadworthy im sure. thanks for the helpful suggestions

Thanks for the reminder, I had forgotten how you solved the problem (state-dependent memory maybe). The proper measurement is already here in this thread.

Nothing like a good detective story. Here's one possible clue. Photo is from the BAT listing for a very nice, original-paint January 1971 Z (VIN 19769) that was listed back in 2006. That car was unrestored and really sanitary (note the fabric-covered rad hose), so I'm 95% confident that it was wearing its original carbs...

The fact that the starting fluid affected the idle indicates your throttle shafts and or the carb bodies are probably worn and pulling air through the gaps. Before you decide that's the whole problem, describe the trouble you're having. Most SU problems are caused by the wrong float level (the primary mixture adjustment) or the airflow in the carbs not being balanced. There's a few more things that can cause trouble but those are normally caused by extreme wear or abuse. ZTherapy has a great DVD "Just SUs" that goes into SUs in detail.

Got it yesterday Dave! Thanks! Clean enough that I was able to squirt it with prepaint prep and primer it right out of the box.

Got a box on the front porch yesterday. It was packed so well I thought it might be a heart for transplant. That is @Terrapin Z David's style though. It brought me tears though. Not because of anything you did David... My son said what is that? I told him it is a mount for the alternator, I need to modify it so I can use a higher amp alternator from a GM car. He said "How do you modify it?" I told him "I have to take the nose off of it." He reached out and did that silly dad trick where you reach for their nose and then stick your thumb between your forefinger and say "Got your nose!" I asked him "How do you remember that stuff?" He said "I think you are the greatest dad jokester in the world!" Thanks Dave! 😂

ecu behind kick panel driver side.

Rcv — 150. Mine - 153 73. 74 20. 18 25. 26 as well, I get 136 to the flat that the pivot screws into, Hope this helps.