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View Advert HLS30-00249 For Sale Many original parts not in photos (smog, 3 piece front valence) and also correct hubcaps and 4.5" rims on Michelins. Advertiser 240260280 Date 03/27/2021 Price Category Cars for Sale Year 1969 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS30-00249

I wasn't very clear with my comment about the bolts. It was meant to be a sarcastic remark that the rust connection between the hubs and rotors was strong enough that the bolts holding them together seemed superfluous. I used a properly Canadian solution of a hockey puck under the inside end of the hub while pounding directly on the rotors with a hammer. My original problem was that I couldn't tell where the rotors ended and the hubs started. Once I found images of what they looked like individually, I was more confident taking @grannyknot's advice. I haven't tried to take the studs out yet, but will probably need to do that in order to clean the hubs up properly. Thanks for the suggestions on how to do that @Mark Maras and @Racer X Back to my wire-wheeling and part cleanup ...

Don't know why they bother with bolts.

Remember that just because you saw it on youtube* does not make it true. (Even if you saw more than one person suggesting that it was.) * or facebook, or twitter, or reddit, or parler, or etc

Not trying to plug my product but I'm working on a conversion bell housing for the Aisin TL70. The TL70 is a six speed out of the BRZ and FRS cars. The swap does not require cutting the car like my CD009 conversion does. I've had the CD009 in my car for a bit and I can say with certainty that a 6 speed with 1:1 5th matches my style of driving. Fast off the line and the overdrive in 6th helps a ton on the highway. I'm running a 3.54 rear. Here are the TL70 ratios. You may want to plug then into your calculator. The TL70 is cheap and plentiful since young drivers have a habit of wadding them up:) TL70 Gear Ratios 1st 3.626 2nd 2.188 3rd 1.541 4th 1.213 5th 1.0 6th 0.767

you may want to take a hard look at the tail housing bushing while you are in there. Check for side to side play in the drive shaft where it goes into the trans.

I'm constantly distorted whether I like it or not. Somedays are cheaper than others though.

I'm feeling socially distorted today.

This be me on an occasional Saturday.

Well, it's difficult to say what year my transmission is at this point. The 5th gear part is off a '82 worn out trany, most of the rest of the innards are out of a '78(?) 4 speed, and the shafts (except the input) are out of my 70 something transmission that a PO installed in the early 80's. Not sure how it's going to work once I get it together... kind of sounds like that old Johnny Cash song.

Jeff, I believe the spacer you are referring to exists in the later (close ratio) FS5W71B that was available in ~1981. The synchro design was changed, and the three-pronged spacer (32624 - I think it’s actually called an insert retainer) was part of that and it is indeed the first thing on the mainshaft behind the mainshaft bearing - on the later model transmission. Regarding the RockAuto kit, it does not contain any retaining rings. I assume you are referring to the "main drive bearing snap ring"? I just reused mine. I hope you can find one - it seems critical to the proper axial positioning of the input shaft relative to the mainshaft. When the mainshaft, input shaft, and counter gear assemblies are all fit together and pressed into the bearings in the adapter plate, there is some fore/aft movement possible between the mainshaft and the input shaft. When I was testing the rotation/movement of the various parts, I noticed that if I pushed the input shaft firmly back against the mainshaft, the whole thing sort of "froze", but if I allowed the input shaft assembly to float forward, everything moved freely. Once everything is reinstalled in the case and the front cover is attached, I think the big snap ring keeps the right fit between the input shaft assembly and the mainshaft assembly (which is locked into place in the adapter plate by the mainshaft nut). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I have a friend who has a 77/280z and wants to renew his suspension, at the moment he has original springs, original worn out shocks and 225/50/16 tires. Now he is not an aggressive driver, his spirited driving is still pretty tame and he's looking for comfort for Hwy/in town driving. At the moment I'm recommending to keep the original springs, install new KYB shocks with proper urethane foam bump stops and replace the tires with 225/60/16 touring tires, the larger tire will give him more comfort and the larger size tire will help fill the wheel well so the car doesn't look like it is riding so high. So what do you guys think, the new tire size is a given, everything else is up in the air. Thanks edit, also all bushings will be replaced with fresh rubber.

I could be wrong (keep in mind that I'm rebuilding my FS5W71B and keep having to undo what I put together) but I think you are missing a spacer (part 32624). Just wondering, I think I read that you bought a rebuilding kit from Rock Auto. Does the input shaft bearing in your kit have a retaining ring because mine did not and I'm waiting on a new bearing that has the clip.

I have edited this list to reflect the actual License Plate Light I used. It is a 67-W15. This bulb is 1/10th of an inch shorter than the 67W that SuperbrightLED's originally suggested and therefore fits in my housing. My housing may be aftermarket or from a later Z. It has two bulbs where the SuperbrightLED site says I need one. IIRC I had a bit of sun damage to my original housing so bought a new one when they were still available. So, check yours to see if you need one bulb or two. I am sure the 67-W15 will work in either housing.

I got a carb rebuild kit so I’ll see what I can do. Might change the needle cause the one currently on the piston is pretty long. Not sure if that has anything to do with the amount of gas that it allows into the carb. I feel that I might’ve added too much oil to the dampers but idk if that has an effect to it.

@Patcon, I just finished rebuilding my early FS5W71B. I encountered what I think is a discrepancy in the 79/80 FSMs, in the Manual Transmission Section. I meant to take a couple of pictures before putting the case back together so that I could post here to document the issue, but forgot. I'm hoping your transmission is in a state where you might be able to take the pictures I didn't. So, here's the thing: When installing the OD-Reverse Synchro Hub, the 1979 FSM says the following on page MT-16: Note: Assemble OD-reverse synchronizer hub, paying attention to its direction. It refers to the following diagram, which I believe is WRONG. The arrow should point to the right (towards the front) - the protrusion on the synchro hub butts up against the mainshaft bearing and allows the splined part of the hub to clear the bearing retainer (both of which are forward of the synchro hub). If the flat (non-protruding) part of the hub is oriented forward, the whole thing just butts against the retainer plate. If you could take a photo or two of the hub showing the actual orientation - maybe one showing the protrusion butting against the bearing, and another with the slider all the way forward, showing the groove in the splines facing rearward, it would be helpful for other rebuilding an early FS5W71B.

Thanks Cliff, mine came with chrome lug nuts. They look pretty good. We’ll see once I mount them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s just stuff. Nothing replaces the value of family, friends and health. My mother-in-law went into hospice today, We’d trade it all to get her back. The grass is only greener where you can be with the people you love and care about otherwise it’s all brown no matter how big the house is or how any toys you have. I’ll trade the Viper for the 240 🤫

I didn't see 'the boy with the banjo' on the front porch of the run-down house next door but it does look like he could live there.