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Oh SNAP!

FWIW, here are the fender emblem hole measurements from my one owner, no accidents, 1971 240Z. I used a precision micrometer and measured from the edge of each fender at the door seam gap to the center of the closest mounting hole. I then measured from the peak of the ridge below the mounting holes to the center of each of the holes. Measuring from the ridge peak is inexact as the peak is rounded, but I tried to measure from what I felt to be the highest point of the curve. Driver's Fender: 3.87 inches from fender edge to mounting hole center Mounting hole closest to fender edge 2.48 inches above peak of fender ridge Mounting hole farthest from fender edge 2.34 inches above peak of fender ridge Passenger's Fender: 4.25 inches from fender edge to mounting hole center Mounting hole closest to fender edge 2.26 inches above peak of fender ridge Mounting hole farthest from fender edge 2.43 inches above peak of fender ridge The center peg on each emblem can be marked after locating each end pin hole on the emblem. My car may differ from your car, but consider this as a starting point for your search. Have fun! Dennis

Like a girl I used to mess with. She used those makeup removal pads and I lost her.

It was only one can😂😂😂

Why can’t you be in the UK!?!! So inconsiderate!!!!!

The fan clutch is more like a torque converter in an automatic transmission. It slips continuously, more so when it's cold. I think that it's never "off" because it needs to pull hot air through the radiator in order to get the feedback it needs to operate correctly. The fins on the clutch serve to absorb heat as well as release it. It needs to absorb the heat in order to stiffen up and spin faster. And it only needs to work when the car is not moving or moving very slowly. No need to be at full throttle/high RPM if you're stuck in a traffic jam. Just some thoughts. The early mechanical feedback mechanisms on cars are pretty fascinating if you dig in to them. Everything is going electronic now, it's just computer code, solenoids, and electric motors. Even automatic transmissions have electronics inside with the ATF. Kind of weird, really.

Here is a snippet from the picture @SpeedRoo posted in another thread of his RH OEM fender, it has same four hole pattern. My fenders are also OEM replacements that I purchased in the early eighties from my local Datsun dealer for my first restoration.

Just heading off to work but here are a few pictures. I can take some measurements tomorrow morning. Strangely there are four holes but only three pins on the emblems. Same but opposite on the right hand side. And of course the three pins are not in a perfectly straight line. The pin behind the "D" is slightly lower.

My first B'52 song that I remember well. I was about 10.

Looking for some hose to bleed the clutch slave. Found this in a moldy old box in the back of the shed. Pure gold

Willie Dixon wrote it and the "man" Muddy Waters first to record. Love Foghat but it all comes from the Southern Blues. Here's Hound Dog before Esley Presley. Buddy Guy does an outstanding job on that Stratocaster too. He's a kid, little skinny ****.

Like this: Mose Allison The Who As always, I like them both.

All the hot bands of my youth were doing covers of other musician's songs.

Here's your "Get out of jail free" song. She listens to the words while you sit quietly, hopefully you can keep your mouth shut.

Older people do it because they grew up with carbs that had accelerator pumps and automatic chokes that didn't work very well when they got old.

Why do people pump the accelerator before cranking the engine on a Z? There are no accelerator pumps in the carbs, so it does nothing.

It does look as if it might work. My objection to GRW has always been their logo stamped into everything.

I think Koni Lee and others have been helpful and responsive throughout this thread and I'm thankful we have quick responses direct from the source. The top nut situation seems to be limited to a handful of cases from what I can tell including my own. I have since installed 2 more Koni struts with the supplied nuts without issue. I think the number of potential cases we've seen could be attributed to either a bad batch of hardware, user error, or just plain bad luck, and from Koni's perspective it does not look like a widespread problem considering the number of struts they've likely sold at this point. Upon removal of my old struts I noticed my KYB struts also were held in with nyloc nuts as well. This appears to be the industry standard for quite some time. I genuinely believe I had a bad nut and wrenched on it a bit too hard while believing the nyloc part of the nut was causing the resistance. I've never used a nyloc of this size before. I am glad we are documenting this to show the importance of careful install and knowing the potential issues that can arise from the different aspects of these struts (small thread size/D-shaft, over-torqueing, power tools, etc.)

Maybe just accept that Koni (you) might be wrong, and the customer might be right. These guys are not "nuts" and are very capable of ascertaining the cause of a problem. gundee even supplied some historical background on the actual "long-term proven product". The product in question is not long-term. Where does Koni source the lock-nuts? Or the shafts for the shocks. They might not be what you think they are. This conversation has the signs of the guy who suggested using locknuts defending the decision, shifting blame, when problems crop up. No offense intended, it's very common. gundee's suggestion made sense - go back to what worked just fine. Seriously, you wrote a lot of words just to end by saying it's the customer's poor methods that are the cause.

I think the holes may be to accommodate different badges in different markets, the Japanese cars used Fairlady Z ones.

I agree, I would not chemical strip or even blast them. If you decide it needs to come off, then sand it off

I would go back to metal forsure! My painter (pro) advised to go to metal because you would be working on a very old surface and you don't know what it's going to do with the new paint chemicaly.. I would not gamble! take it off! Use a 60 sandpaper on a rotary it go's fast. other painters say do not use chemical stuff to get it of because you have to clean it very well and then still you find it back in the new paint.. they say.. 🙄

You use a FET? I would go for a thyristor.. And a fat heatsink.. 👍

Well said!!! After my galling disaster with them on my brand new Konis I ditched the nyloc and went back to the original ones that come on the Z. I was in a hurry to get them off and was merely using a socket set quickly before they welded themselves onto the threads. I do wish Koni would take onboard the feedback and change this - its a lovely product with what I consider to be an unnecessary wart!

Under certain circumstances, exhaust gas is intended to be ported into the intake stream to reduce some exhaust emissions (compounds of nitrogen). Now about those "certain circumstances"... Those certain circumstances never include "at idle". At idle, the EGR system is disabled because it tends to make the idle unstable. And when you're not at idle, amount of vacuum applied to the EGR valve is modulated by the BPT valve so that the higher the engine load, the more exhaust will be recirculated. I'm thinking that what you have done is applied 100% full open exhaust recirc under conditions where there should be zero. And the engine doesn't like that. Here's a bunch of EGR and BPT theory in this thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/47123-egr-system-theory-behing-bpt-valve/?

Thanks guys...I'll try thinner on them. Were in their boxes since the 1970/80s. Owner passed away and they were never fitted to a car. Saves me doing bodywork straightening the ones on my car out.

You can't go wrong with Spal fans especially in your part of the world, I can only imagine the heat when stuck in traffic in Dubai.

My old Koni reds came with a regular nut and lock washer. I have removed and reinstalled several times over the years changing springs. No issues. I do not think I would use the nyloc nut in this situation. With the piston top being cut half, I can envision the nylon sometimes pulling the nut sideways enough to partially cross thread. Now there is metal in the threads and when removing I think that further jams the threads to fully strip. When I look close I don't think any of the shaft threads are any good. They are about totally gone at the bottom. I would recommend to Koni that this may not happen often, but to eliminate that possibility, change to nut and lock washer install.

The folks at Nissan sent me a bunch of pics, here are a couple of favs.

I understand the dilemma guys so I set about to solve the problem

Here is a scan of my sketch, if you print on 8.5" x 11" paper and select "actual size" it will print to scale. 1970 240Z HATCH EMBLEM HOLES.pdf

View Advert L28 Oil Pan Nice oil pan from an L28. No rust or dents. The mounting flange is nice and straight. Shipping extra at cost. Advertiser Marty Rogan Date 02/21/2021 Price $150.00 Category Parts for Sale

Lately i've been purchasing a lot of stuff for the project and related documents and automobilia. Just when i got additionally offered a complete lot of documents from a big collector. Due to covid related delays, the different orders from several weeks and months ended up arriving at my place all within a few days... If you look at the picture below, quite a lot of stuff! Some things just came with the lots, and i will not keep them, even if nice stuff though. Nevertheless, here's what was in my mail yesterday. In the next part of the story, i will show you a huge pile (two cars and a trailer full) of nice parts i picked up yesterday from an old barn... So what was is all that? First a bunch of swiss Datsun memorabilia: including a vintage swiss datsun plastic bag, sales window cards, spare-parts bag, patches, a beer coaster, folders, matchstick boxes, etc... One of the coolest parts here is definitely the 1971 Geneva International Motor show press release folder, including the 240Z and information about the Z beeing shown at their booth. But what is even cooler. The press release states you can order Lithographic master plates from Datsun (Suisse) SA, for your own catalogue production, and it came with one of those lithography master plates. With exactly the same picture as shown in the press release and which is also used in some of the official swiss Z-documentation: Then i found another press release. This time from 1972, about the introduction of the 240Z in switzerland: From germany, i got a set of service manuals and a parts catalogue, which somehow seem to be photocopies of original ones. Not sure exactly who made those, since they're quite good quality and have an "official" feel to them. Maybe Datsun / Nissan germany replicated them themselves? I collected also a bunch of magazines, which include stories of interesting cars that are not your standard Z-car tests: An original swiss 240Z magazine ad (also seen in other countries with the same picture, but different text) Various random Datsun and Z-related magazine tests: A bunch of vintage Z and ZX related parts catalogues (Some of the companies do not exist anymore, or have different names now...) A set of japanese S30 and L-series related Mooks (Magazine books) Including this nice Nostalgic speed motor calendar (Sorry for the blurry photo) A bunch of key holders. Not sure if any of these where officially released by nissan or if all of them are 3rd party stuff. various stickers Sew-on patches and a little C110 Skyline Kenmeri Diecast car: Various User manuals, dealer list and empty document folders from the austrian datsun Import company (which does not exist anymore): Various apparel and a Datsun banner: Japanese nissan chronicles and history books: Which seem very informative, but still have to go through them: The japanese fold-out sales brochure for the Fairlady Z: Some new (re-issued) Tomei vintage stickers: A japanese Fairlady Z Parts catalogue: Random parts and bits for my project: And the cooles part: The "Breadbox" triple mikuni Airboxes, which where used on some of the works rallye cars, and where also optional "competition" equipment. The ones i got are japanese MS Kubo replicas with slightly different locking mechanism. Original ones are rare to find and expensive. And since i'm not even sure if i can install them here street-legally, i decided not to go too crazy about finding original ones. But then i still liked them so much, i had to have them. Here's a picture of the competition parts catalogue, listing the original ones: Stay tuned for the next part of the story, which includes a Barn and loads of stuff. but now i need to sort through all the parts first and take nice pictures 🙂