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I have an E88 with "Birmingham Cylinder Head" on those. Seems like there's one on each end? From what I've been told it's the glue? that holds them on that gets too hot and releases the button/disc. That voids their warranty if one is missing.

I appreciate the time taken for you guys to look it up/research it. I had a feeling it didn't get put there by BRE racing, but if it did, it would make for some pretty cool history. Big Randy's Engineering needs to make a stamp that isn't so misleading.

It's a rebuilt head, probably on a rebuilt short block. The N47 with flat tops would give a high CR. I don't think Nissan did that for their factory engines. Looks like somebody's home project. BRE probably stands for Big Ron's Engineering and Speed Shop.

So a few days ago i was able to pick up the remaining parts from the Big "Barn find lot" The owner had kept three boxes of various fasteners for the 240Z for himself, since he had to assemble his car first. This is what is left over. All nicely cleaned and with a fresh coat of zinc and yellow passivated: The parts are nicely split up into "random fasteners": Metric bolts and self-cutting screws Nuts and shims: So that "sub-project" is now completed as well. Not sure however if those parts really all belong to the 240Z. Some of them don't seem familier.. but that doesn't matter i'm sure they find their place 🙂

The little disc glued to the core plug on the head was placed there by Pioneer Engine Rebuilders. Like Zed says, it has a thermal indicator, to show if the head has, or has not, been subjected to overheating. It also gives a clue about the history of the head, and possibly the engine.

I googled that heat button on the head, "Pioneer cylinder head" and it came up as a parts supplier I'd never heard of for Nissan parts. Learned something new today. That's always good! https://pioneerautoinc.com/engine/internal-parts

Yeah, so is my oven 😉

Working from home today, so I took a break and took my spare apart. I did mangle the pin a little, but it might still be reusable.

Thanks guys for your feedbacks, it's what I need. I thought this stock 260Z factory unit is doable and if it's going to head ache will scrap the idea. I visited a local store this morning who specializes in modern parts and accessories for old cars. The tech guy advised to scrap the old unit. Not worth messing around with it. So I picked up the full kit of Vintage Air Gen Mini II. Will see if the tech was right, suppose to be easy plug and play except for making my own brackets etc.

The retractor mount area was reinforced when the cars were built. At all three points where the belts anchor to the car the structures are reinforced, and a nut is welded in place to receive the anchor bolts. By the way, the early 240Z didn’t have retractable seat belts. There were three belts, a lap belt with the receiver that attached to the side of the transmission tunnel, a lap belt that anchored where the later cars had a retractor, and a shoulder belt that anchored above the quarter window. The shoulder belt hooked into the lap belt buckle on a pin.

The thing glued on with the red goop looks like a heat indicator used for rebuilt parts, to show that they've been overheated. BRE? Maybe Brock had a head ready for a race car and somebody ended up with it. https://bre2.net/the-racing/datsun/

Just to some food for thought about locks.... If you are looking to re-key your locks make sure that all 6 lock cylinder housings accept the same key type. I just had a passenger door lock that i opened up only to find that the housing will not accept its mirror key style. When i was testing some keys out, a very worn out OEM Nissan Key that was mirrored to the housing fit, but the key that I was setting them all to did not fit into the housing. The worn out key was worn out enough to get stopped by the housing. I don't think that the glovebox housing can be re-keyed, I could not find a way to open the housing, it might be possible without total destruction. The later style dashboards can have their housings re-keyed. Ideally you can source the key from the glovebox, then key everything to that. If you have to re-key the set, pray that you don't have to mess with the door locks, their a pain in the arse to open, the replacement face caps from Auto-Security Products is not a good match, so you'll have to reuse it. Stuck: Fits:

I have said it before I will say it again, the stock 280z setup works pretty good, not great as in its not a meat locker but it does well. In fact I notice that the real issue is trying to cool down the heated interior parts, a few minutes in the sun and you can barely hold you hand to the dash (sunny florida). I will break it down into pros and cons Stock pros: OE can only help with value if you ever want to sell the car, buys like OE. its simple, really really simple, easy to trouble shoot. this is big if you care, it allows for the use of the "VENT" setting, aftermarkets have you block this off. I like the vent on the days when its cool enough to not use the AC and i don't want to have the windows rolled down, besides its just a nice feature imho. It works pretty good, has things like idle up so rpm is kept up under the load of the compressor. The stock compressor is rugged, will last forever. You can get evaps and condensors and tvx if you are willing to spend the money. Stock cons: its old and there are a lot of NLA parts I am talking about control panels magnet valves bottles not the evap/cond which are out there. its based on R-12, I don't know how well the evaporator or stock expansion valve would work with R-134. Some folks "may" find the lever controls confusing, I don't think so but just saying. the stock compressor while rugged is very heavy for the go fast types this is a problem. After market pros: easy to get, just spend money, lots of it, but you don't have to hunt things down. I presume it works well and on does it on R134a, I have no 1st hand exp with these but if the were lousy I am sure it would be known. it does not have to have air bottles and vacuum to operate if that matters. I am sure its well supported by the dealers since its new. it uses modern compressors that prob are lighter for the go fast types. After market cons: its not OE so does not add as much value as a OE for buyers that are looking for all original. a Biggie here, it looks like there is a lot of fabrication, I never see instructions showing pre made parts for the install, its up to the buyer to figure out how to put it in. Do not underestimate this. it deletes (I hate that word) the vent for outside air. this is for cooling and heating as well. Its expensive (that is if you have a complete but non working original ac system that may just need some easy fixing). esp if you have some one install it, i have to imagine the labor cost would be high for a quality job. Now if you have a non functional OE system I would advice trouble shooting it and getting it working. If you have a non AC car but want an OE system your best bet would be to find a donor or try to find a complete system, a bit of a hit or miss here if you are not fully aware of all that is needed. if neither of those appeal to you and your prefer the pros over the cons of an aftermarket setup, I would hope you can find someone that has actually installed one and you can see for yourself the finished product.

When I cleaned mine I used Murphy's oil soap to clean them then I used some left over leather cleaner from a BMW I had. The leather cleaner made the interior smell good so I still use that. My Camry has leather too. Bought all that at Walmart.

I think thats dirt down in the grooves. A brush and frequent bucket changes. See if it gets better. Maybe find a specialty cleaner from Meguiars or Lexall

Okay, dumb question, what are these tools for?

Having spent plenty of time in the High Desert in the past, I'm impressed with 0.03 in June. Meanwhile I run a portacool in my garage to dehumidify it enough that I don't suffer heat stroke here.

I have no key for the lock, so no big deal to take it apart. The mistake I made was trying to remove only the peened part of the pin with a chisel and then driving it out. Due to burrs it got stuck part way through and bent slightly. One thing to watch out for when driving the pin out is that the mounting flanges bend quite easily. I held it in my vice by one flange and blocked the side for support, while driving the pin out.

thanks ya'll. The bolt that came with the kit has a 1" spacer built in to it. That might be enough to do the deed.

Yep, that’s the spot. Like Steve said, a short spacer to keep the hardware from rubbing the trim panel is a good idea. I would suggest a piece of tubing that slips neatly over the bolt, long enough to get the hardware off of the panel. The hole in the panel needs to be slightly larger than the tubing, so the panel doesn’t get pinched in the stack up and broken.

I’d expect this from Captain Obvious.

That is the original anchor point. You might consider adding a small spacer (1/4 inch or so) to aid in clearing the panel.

Yeah, Randy also doubts it refers to Brock Racing Enterprises, but he might email the photo to Peter anyway.

I would doubt that BRE on that block would have anything to do with Brock Racing Enterprises. Pete disbanded BRE in 72 when he decided to get into hang gliding. The N42 block came out in the 280Z. However, to cover my bases, I did send the picture to Randy Jaffe. Considering how much of a BRE fanatic he is, he may be able to shed some light onto that.

Not sure about the 240, but the 260-280... Easy-peasy:

Finally found the page I was looking for and I am WRONG. That '79 was a 2+2 with the F-54/ P-79. I don't know if that matters or if someone had swapped out the motor? Anyway here's the write up on all the different blocks and head combos. Great read but hard to find nowadays, they changed something and my old bookmarks do not work anymore. https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/ L24 (1970 240Z)2.4 liter# E31 (flattop pistons)E31 L24 ('71-73 240Z)2.4 liter# P30 (flattop pistons)E88 L26 ('74 260Z)2.6 liter# P30 (flattop pistons)E88 L28 ('75-80 280Z/ZX)2.8 liter# N42 (dished pistons)N42, N47 L28 ('81-83 280ZX)2.8 liter# F54 (flattop/dished pistons, siamesed cylinders)P79, P90, P90a

the horn will make a horn noise.

$38k is alot of money for that car IMHO

Yes I did paint the spokes, but not black. As an experiment I painted same color as the tail light panel.

Yup, those are the ones I installed to replace my H4's in Goldie. They are bright.

Cool! I have one of those.

No product failure is ever welcomed, and we will certainly be talking to the manufacturer about this one, and continue to monitor them. We're of course very sorry that both of your products had obvious issues. We have sold over 180 of them since 2016, and these are the first two alerts we know of concerning this issue (possibly 3 assuming the one from Hybrid was the same manufacturer, which is hard to tell for sure, since there have been a few similar options on Ebay over the past couple of years, some of which are no longer around). Hopefully it is not more than 2-3 out of 180 and not indicative of a mass or new problem, we'll certainly look carefully at the next batch we receive. As far as we know the rest of the 180 that were installed are working fine to this day. If other members have had the same issue with this style, please let us know. Certainly Greg and this company have not stayed in business for over 40 years by ignoring reports like this, they are all taken seriously, and again, we'll make sure the manufacturer is aware of it. We do apologize, Madkaw, for the delays. Being severely short-handed for over a year now, Greg himself is having to take care of all the returns, along with a number of other missing staff positions, and we have been quite overwhelmed and behind. Sorry that it took extra time to get everything processed. We're working as hard as we can, and working hard to find more team members at the same time. We of course responded personally to zKars, and are processing his refund now. As a side note, unfortunately James has been on a leave of absence since mid last year, so if you have, or do, try to message him, unfortunately he won't see it. We're also hopeful that James might be able to return at some point.

Today i visited a Datsun friend and picked up some parts like these rear window rubbers: A used Door mirror (mine came without those) A set of NOS Window insulators: A NOS transmission boot rubber: And a bunch of catalogues. The orange one is a 1972 belgian catgalogue and the other one is a french one. But the on on the top right is the really rare one i car about. It's the very early March 1971 Swiss sales brochure. I have never seen this one (with US-spec car) before. The later one with the red euro spec car is much more common. Inside you find the usual press photos and information. nothing special. On the rear the Monte Carlo rallye 1971 is used to promote the sportiness of the Z. Mind the monte carlo rallye was held only about 6 weeks before this brochure was released. What is also interesting is the paper. It has a texture like the 240Z Vinyl dashboard and has a very exklusive feel. Nice score!

I know this thread is a little old but I just finished my wheel and I believe it turned out pretty good and to me looks pretty close to the brechures that were posted on here. Anyways If anyone is interested in the full story behind my 71 240z I have a thread going here: https://www.zcar.com/threads/240z-worth-saving-front-end-damage.421423/

Disclaimer: Nothing in this post is for sale - Do not ask me, thanks! What qualifies something as a "barn find" has been discussed previously. But nevertheless, i found these parts covered in dust in an old shed. They were not exactly "forgotten about", but stored there in many years. The story behind them unfortunately includes a bit of human tragedy. After many years, i was the lucky one to buy the whole lot. Well sort of. Since i'm not exactly a hoarder and did not want to have many more parts of those i already own, i made an agreement with a Friend who basically bought the whole lot and i was the one to handle it. In return i got some rare, free and much-needed parts from the lot. So let's start: A while ago i learned from a nice gentleman and z-owner who had some small parts for sale. After some first talks, it turned out we had the same interests, and then he told me about what he had in storage - and it was much more than i had expected. Since his z-restauration is completed now, he doesn't need the parts anymore and was willing to sell them. Talk about good timing! After some first parts viewing, assessment, calculations and negotiation with all of the stakeholders, i was able to make a deal. This is the little shed in some swiss countryside.... Most of the parts where stored in the upper level and only accessible via an unstdeady ladder. But hey - who cares if there are NOS genuine datsun parts? I was initially only interested in the sheetmetal parts, mostly the datsun original parts. But they were only for sale as a lot. Well and then we agreed on buying the whole parts Lot including all the used and aftermarket parts too, so he could clear out the whole stock at once. Last weekend, i was finally able to pick up the parts. First we had to get everything down from the roof-level and outside. And then put it all into two transporter-cars and an additional trailer: So the last days i spent in my garage sorting through all the parts. I made three piles. Left is used original Parts, Center are aftermarket parts and right are NOS genuine Datsun / Nissan parts. On the wall to the right you can see some additional big items... Which includes some funky window louvres, a used hatch glass and a new aftermarket Windshield: Additionally a set of Doors, hood and hatch from a donor-car: The "holy grail" is definitive the NOS parts lot which includes air-channels, complete front inner fenders, a set of front valances, frame-rails, hubcaps, weather strip, trim pieces and many small bits. These are some of the parts that will end up on my build, if required. I've been looking for those for many years now, so i'm quite happy i finally found them! The used parts lot included everything from an uncracked dashboard to original steelies, radiator frame, Headlight covers, an A-type 5-speed transmission, Euro-spec front spoiler, Euro turn signals and much, much more... The aftermarket-lot included a lot of older, but unused parts from all kind of sources. A complete Hood, 3 front fenders, inner and outer rocker panels, rear lower corners, door repair panels, rear arch repair panels, a set of vintage Koni dampers, Aisin-seiki clutch cover, brake shoes and much more... It has been an exhausting but also very fun and satisfying journey to get all those parts. They're now safely in storage and will end up on some pretty nice restauration projects, which deserve such nice parts! So again, none of the parts are for sale. All of them have either been sold already or are for my own build. Sorry..

Today i got the delivery from the guys at Sandstrahlen-plus.ch which i can really recommend if you're in switzerland... They had my complete chassis blasted (except the roof and a few areas i will replace anyway) and primered. The job is very nice if you ask me and it looks so much better with all the car in one colour, rather than twelve different layers of primer, bondo, paint, rust protection, etc.. in various states... Remember, this is how it looked a few weeks ago... Luckily the process didnt' reveal any new problems, only the bad repairs of yesteryear and the rusty spots i already new and have replacement panels for... $ I also made this little "unboxing" gif whlie unwrapping the car and thought it was fun to share...