Leaderboard

Wheel bearing race drifts: 1" black iron pipe coupling (ground a tad smaller) 2" pipe nipple with threads ground a tad smaller.

SU Jet Sleeve alignment tool. @dk240z kindly made me a nicer version on this lathe back then!

I made this for pulling the rear axle. The round hole serves a dual purpose. Either to hold a breaker bar to allow removal of the axle nut or to use with a slide hammer to pull the axle.

Finally got my Bumpers in yesterday. These came from Automobile Bumper in Vietnam. I made a video of the unboxing and install and will post later. I used the Skillard brackets and I want to thank EuroDat for his advice, he spent a lot of time via messaging to help me out. Since I may go with a Skillard grill in the future (that’s if my current plan to use extra lower Z grills to fill the lower gap doesn’t work), I chose not to buy his brackets. He’s will not work with the Skillard grill. So I’m super happy with the fit and quality of these bumpers. You really can’t ask for a better fit on a 45+ year old car and aftermarket bumpers. Here are the before and after pics. Standby for the video another day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve made dozens of tools over the years. It would be safe to say they are all equally valuable, as all were created when there wasn’t a tool available to do the job. I’ve made tools to remove spring eye bushings for leaf springs and install new ones for heavy trucks. This was so I didn’t have to remove the spring to take it to a press. I made a tool for checking and adjusting air brake slack adjusters. I built a gage for checking the toe on my race car, but it can be used to check toe on any vehicle. Along that line I made a number of tools to aid in setting and adjusting all of the suspension on the race car, camber, caster, square. Dozens of jigs and fixtures, for drilling or assembly. Stands for spare engines and transmissions. My tool box is loaded with modified wrenches and sockets. I have bought a number of wrenches just to be modified for a single job. I built a cart for a suitcase MIG welder that also carries the argon bottle, and storage for a welding hood, gloves and leather coat, clamps, spare wire, consumables and nozzle dip. I made a tool for holding L series cylinder heads for porting work, so I don’t have to chase it around the workbench. Another tool for holding a Z strut and spindle for mocking up brake caliper adapters and cooling ducts, and checking wheel to brake component clearances. It also is useful for mounting a wheel for polishing. The list goes on . . . .

For a spring that are in a gearbox base plate i use a side cutting pliers, just cut halfway into it, your not gonna hurt it just stretch it. The best made tool was a apparatus to grip the crank on a 300zx(tt) z32 for taking of the balancer (necassary when changing the timingbelt) without taking everything of and the starter also to block the crank! I block the crank with my own made tool that clicks into the holes in the balancer/pulley. (It's a horizontal beam fits to the stabilizerbar and has two steel round "fingers" that go into the holes of the balancer. simple but effective.. saves a lot of time, because you don't need to take the starter off!)

A 1/2" x 3' length of garden hose that I use as my go-to stethoscope.

Jet alignment Tool

I wondered why I had a cast iron pipe fitting in my Z parts drawer! You told me about how that reducer would work, and it did. Thanks again.

Wow...she’s beautiful. You did a great job. It’s perfect Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had my Xenon air dam painted when I had my car painted, and it turned out really good. I also had my old lower valance that I took off repaired and painted at the same time, this will allow me to go back to the original front down the road if I felt like it.

Go to Youtube and search "University Motors SU Carb" It's a fantastic series of videos on British SU's. 95% of the information is exactly the same as our Datsun SU's.

If I ever cross paths with Mrs. Racer 1.0 again it will be too soon.

Ps. Just uploaded the Street Muffler - the last one of the series. Please forgive the shaky video halfway through. The camera mount broke off, but at least the sound is all there! [emoji20]

I refuse to join Faceplant.

As we all know, not all needs are answered by over-the-counter tools. As one example, my Z-friend Dieter Roth made his own special wrench for one particularly annoying Z job (halfshaft U-joint bolts, IIRC) by simply grinding off the excess metal from a standard open-end wrench so that it would fit inside the limited-clearance space. For my own efforts, I've enjoyed constant use over the years from a 18" length of 1"-dia aluminum tubing (from a TV antenna mast) that I squashed one end of so that it would fit over the end of open-end and box-end wrenches to give extra leverage. What's in your tool box?

I think @zKars can fill 10 pages!

Ollie was the snaggle-toothed dragon from a popular 50's TV show called "Kukla, Fran and Ollie".

Ollie might be before my time. I went to High School in the 80’s. Good idea the paint them Black or I could remove them. My state doesn’t have a front license plate law. The go pro mount is a pretty good idea too . The Skillard brackets give a lot of adjustability (3 axis) and are well made. The hardware is plated and I’d prefer SS, that’s my only knock on them. They’re not cheap either, $205 shipped. I’m still waiting on my Xenon 3125 vented air dam. Bought directly from them because everyone else was sold out. That was three weeks ago and still no sign of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use the brackets for a GoPro mount

Most excellent work! If you are not going to run a front license plate, consider painting the two license brackets either flat or satin black to avoid the "Ollie The Dragon" look. Been there, done that. Tell me you remember who Ollie was. 😉

Hey Jim, Here's a pic of the mud guards getting reinstalled on my car, note three screws per side. The online parts catalog says this part is the same for all 240Z's and I have buddies working on '72's that are attached the same way. I think the parts from any 240Z will work for your project. Jim3 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/front-fender-hood

Handbrake/E-brake positioning on the S30-series Z is defaulted to RHD configuration. Making both RHD and (re-sited) LHD configurations was deemed too expensive, so they went with the ideal RHD positioning for both. The only S30-series Zs to get a re-sited handbrake lever were the LHD Nissan Works rally cars. I think they certainly *did* think about the seat runners/rails, and that's evident in their handing and part identification. Another example of attention to detail that runs deeper than we might often give credit for. Perhaps a good example of that generation of Japanese engineers, who took pride in even the most humble componentry.

Glad to be of service sir! 😉 Wait until the next one, I have some ideas that will either make me look like a complete c@ck or be funny! Amen! So true!! [emoji106][emoji106]

This is the most entertaining video yet, a lot of fun. As for the muffler, it has a classic L series six cylinder sound. I like the bbbrrrrrraaapppp! as the throttle is mashed and the engine winds up. Beautiful Datsun music.

It's not the weeds at all. You need pressure. Enough to overcome the cracking pressure when the valves are closed, and enough to overcome the orifice restriction that is the needle valve. Tables and tables and charts and formulas for the pressure drop across an orifice. Reynolds number, temperature, flow rate, viscosity..... Depends on a whole bunch of factors, but the bottom line is you need enough pressure to push the fuel in under all conditions, but not so much as to force the valves open when you don't want them to be open. It's a little mini-control loop with pressure being the energy that makes it all work. If it worked without pressure, it would be a perpetual motion machine.

I love making tools and jigs. My latest was a modification to the spindle pin puller I made. Since I already had the puller, I made another sleeve and turned it into a rear outer bushing puller. It made removing the OE bushings almost easy.

thanks again for the reply and again the street muffler test !! that just through a wrench in my thoughts haha

Ms. Racer #1 might hit you up on "faceplant"? I get a lot of holiday booty off faceplant.

When I need to stretch out a spring instead of pliers/vise grips, I use a wire like drop ceiling hanging wire. Sort of like a clothes hanger. Put the wire through the spring end and double it over for a pull handle and pull it out to the the set hole. Works great.

Last time I was on this forum you called me a "troll". Have I been upgraded? Listen, anyone who thinks they Know It All about these cars simply doesn't know how much they don't know. I'm always interested, and willing, to learn. I certainly don't think I Know It All, and nor would I even want to. Where would be the fun in that? There's always something new to learn, as you have so artfully demonstrated of yourself in this thread.

You may as well drop the motor to change the plugs plus 13 quarts of high dollar Kendall oil in an '81 SC. It's a road you have to drive before you realize the bumps it has. Kind of like boats. There fun but like they say you can just stand in the shower and rip up hundred dollar bills.

Dutchzcarguy, I think the 911’s are beautiful and I’d love a mid 80’s air cooled SC. The problem with Porsche is you better have a fat wallet and know a good mechanic because parts are too expensive. No offense but I’ve sworn off European cars. I’ve owned 3 BMWs in my life and all of the were great driving but they are too expensive to fix and the Germans have over-engineered them, honestly this is happening across the board with most manufacturers not just German cars. Cars are needlessly too complex now. I had adaptive headlights on my 330 and when they broke it was $1800 each, electric seat motor went out $2790. And things just started to go on the car at 5 yrs. Once your warranty expires you need to sell. Porsches are the same. It’s a love hate relationship. I’d rather keep my Z than deal with the long term consequences of an older Porsche. Plus, drive a Z and a 911 and see which car attracts more interest by the casual person walking by. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

F5C71-B was Direct-Drive ('Dogleg' shift pattern) 5-speed competition 'box, but there was no Warner synchro version, hence no F5W71-B.

Aha! So THAT'S what they were doing in Area 54... Prefix for the USA/Canada Datsun 260Z model was 'RLS30'. Check your factory documentation. Threads like these start out with the best of intentions, but soon become self-defeating messes.

Correct. Also, as in first post, UK, Europe/rest of the world didn't get the 280Z, its just a North American thing. The North American market had the 260z (RS30) for 1 (?) year, whilst other markets carried on the the 260Z (e.g. Aust/NZ /even Japan before Nissan recalled all the 260Z they sold). UK (and probably Europe- not sure) 280zx (s130) was R180 for autos, R200 for manual 'boxes. Also, the Japanese market had the S31 for the last couple (?) of years, more than likely 'boxes and diffs were the same (would have to look at fiche to confirm)