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Got my 350Z seats re-covered and installed.

Progress for today, started cleaning up the engine and removed the alternator. I was actually surprised at how much blue paint there still is, with the grease and grime removed.

That's impressive work. Nice attention to planning and details. Not a great deal of ceiling clearance in your garage workspace, either. I don't think I've ever heard anyone talk about pulling a Z engine without removing to hood. I don't think I've seen anyone bring the hoist in from the side, either.

I'd put the timing light on it and make sure you know the distributor is working right. I just remembered going for a test drive many years ago with a friend right after he did some work on his truck's engine, and he remarked that the engine seemed like it had lost power. We were climbing a small dirt hill at low RPM. I said it felt like the timing was retarded and he realized that he had left the vacuum advance hose off. Put it back on and the pep came back. Might be that you don't actually have any advance mechanism happening so you need 25 initial just to make it run half-decent.

Mine popped open once and I jumped out to shut it without pulling the cable and releasing it completely. I shut the hood on my fingers and was held hostage. Couldn't move enough to pull the handle in the cabin. Stuck in a parking lot locked down by the hood. I had to start yelling for help, I was trapped and it was hurting. Luckily a nice guy came over and pulled the handle, setting me free. I'm super careful about that now because I often drive around with the hood latched but not shut completely. Just another day in my life.

I went through the M/C change on my April '71 built Z 14 years ago and had to use the later style unit. I submitted the same question to the forum members and got great answers. Please see link below. It may help you.

[emoji16] Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Oh yeah they are comfy, RX8

I would like to know as well. It would be good reference for when I re-assemble. The other thing to remember is, don't lean on the fenders.

Not sure if this helps but here are a couple of pictures of my early M/C with the original tubes connected. Hopefully you can compare these to your setup with the later M/C. I replaced mine about ten years ago, probably just before they went NLA.

Successful event yesterday pulling the engine, without removing the hood. It only took about 15 minutes to lift it out and mount on my engine stand. Thanks to my friend, Dave. I did spend a good part of the day before doing the rigging and taking measurements to make sure I wouldn't need to remove the hood. Getting very close to sending the shell to my body guy Jody.

there were a couple that were loose. I adjusted it while hot. Then I ran the engine and did a second adjustment. I think I finally got it. Sounds good now, right?

This issue happened to my 280z ‘77 once. Engine died at stoplight but fire up immediately. I didn’t pay much attention back then. Thought it was just a rare one off occurrence. Weeks later as I haven’t drive the car for at least 4 weeks, I couldn’t start the car at all. No ignition engage, no clicking of the starter … spends hours troubleshoot. Battery was good…. Cabin lights turn on…. Head lamp works for high beams but not low beams. I’ve been driving with high beams for weeks thought that the headlamps are on its way out… just haven’t got time to get around to replace them as I don’t drive at night that often… long story short, when I couldn’t start the car at all and spent hours troubleshoot… turn out the negative battery post wasn’t firmly tighten. I guess when starting the engine, starter draws strong current and if it is not firmly connected, it won’t turn over though other lights draw less current work fine. I’m sharing my experience hopping yours is as simple as mine and won’t need to replace a lot of component. I have been driving the car for months now almost daily at least 10 miles each day. Enjoying it a lot

OK, so that's an original 78 ECU and there's no software in it. In other words... I don't think there's anything inside that can that would cause a lean-boot that would last the length of the drive and then be reset by a reboot. Still sounds like a software issue to me. And with that in mind... Something we haven't discussed in depth... Jonbill had asked earlier "when it is in this "lean" state, does it feel normal to drive, or hesitant?" Your A/F meter is the only entity attached to the car that has any software in it. Let's consider the prospect that it's a measurement phenomenon and not "really" occurring? So can you tell from driving the care while it's in the lean-boot state... Does it feel lean, or does it feel the same as when it's not measuring lean?

I hope to see this when it is complete. What a great build.

My limited research drove me away from the rubber. They have value on a daily driver or in populated areas where you have less control of what happens to your car when parked. I live in a small town, so not much traffic (unless it’s tourist season) so the chances for a small bump are less likely. I installed a split system AC in my garage and that thing is awesome. Had it set a 74 today....my old garage was a Chinese Sweat Shop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's good you didn't go with the rubber strips. Today I was tightening/replacing hardware on the rubber strips. I'm glad I have the portacool in the garage when I want to work on the car this time of year.

Wow, Cliff! Thanks for the compliments! I'm honored in receiving such high praise from you. I have considered swapping out to the smaller 240Z bumpers many times, even purchased the mounting plates, but every time I think of doing body work and paint on the rear of the car I talk myself out of it. [emoji38] Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Rockauto has ACC kits like just about everyone else so I'd guess they are the best simply by how many are selling them. If you go to rockauto.com you'll find the kit numbers from ACC. Google that but you won't find a better deal by a major supplier. I'd see if MSA has the same number too. Most likely...

Have solved some problems and acquired others, fuel pump died on me so waiting a new to arrive soon, in the mean time trying to finish the rest of the car. I had a set of 240z sunvisors on the self so tried them in the 510, they fit! And fit perfectly, as if they might have been an possible option for Nissan. Spoiler and front bumper are on, brakes and clutch are bled, the rear window is done, carpet kit is in (those wrinkles are not in the finished job). Finished the SS threshold plates and installed the seats today, just need a fuel pump now.

I remember in elementary school we got vaccinated. No choice. The military does it too. The insurance companies should deny payment if you get covid but would not get the vaccine. It's available to anyone now, free too.

Gents, I need to request that we keep this thread moving about COVID statistics and information. It's not a bashing session. Remember there are people who cannot take the vaccine due to medical or religious reasons and I do not want our platform to be a place where they do not feel welcome. Thanks guys. Mike

Gents can we get back to the bumper topic😂😂

One day we'll all look back on what this did to society and as an individual. I traveled extensively around the world during the 2009 swine flu (over a billion suspected cases), and no place, even China where the worst death rates were did people treat one another poorly. Some people wore masks, most didnt, yet no one scolded, belittled, brow beat anyone, ever. So from 2009 till now, we all have reduced ourselves to 8th graders, pitting one group against the other. Why? My mother taught me is you dont have anything nice to say, they stay quiet.

No mosquitoes.