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Happy birthday to me yesterday!

Interesting that the previous console repairman didn't fiberglass the inside of the console instead of the outside. A few strategic patches and reinforcements on the underside would have saved it. I patched mine from the inside and filled cracks and holes with epoxy from the outside surface. Painted it and reinstalled. Looks fine. I touched up the silver highlights with a fine tip silver Sharpie.

This topic never goes away, after all you own a Z.🤣

One tip I have used for breaking loose bolts: Before you try to loosen it, torque it slightly tighter. This may give you a little wiggle room to get it started turning the correct direction to loosen it. This actually worked for one screw when I was trying to remove the grille. Don't forget that heat can be your friend. Sometimes a heat gun is enough.

Patience, like caffine in Sprite, never had it, ha ha ha, never will.

The "patience thing" seems to be working. After four days, I finally got one of the over riders detached from the bumper. Consumed one can of PB Blaster, some WD40, some Lucas penetrating oil spray recommended by a friend who uses it on his old Lotus and Corvette, a brass wire detail brush for cleaning bolt threads, and bought a set of offset box wrenches at the "disposable" tool store Harbor Freight for better leverage, The second over rider is soaking and I'll try again tomorrow morning around 6:30 AM while the temperature is still under 100º. It's not a hobby, it's an adventure! 😎

I like this one: but also get great results with PB Blaster. I suspect that all the "major" brands do about the same job, maybe variance in time to work or something. My one attempt to use the ATF and acetone potion was a dismal failure, but then I don't follow instructions well or have much patience. My only real advice here is 1. Don't bother with WD40, and 2, be patient and use several clean it, soak it and let it work sessions. Again the patience thing usually bites me on that last one...

This past Sunday I removed the front and rear suspension, officially my car is no longer a roller. All went without issue thanks to the detailed instructions in Wick Humbles book and the video posted by @240ZBUILTBYME on his build thread. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-sheena/?do=findComment&comment=607208&_rid=7818 Also it has very useful to have lots of spare jack stands and a small extra floor jack. Here are a few pics of the setup and process for removing the front crossmember and suspension as a unit. The transmission adapter on my floor jack added extra stability in the absence of a helper. Rear setup and process, Resetting for the final drop without the transmission adapter, Only a few more things to do, before it's off to my body guy's shop.

I saw that and the first thing I thought was someone is faking a numbers matching car.

Just been out for a blast in mine and being 27°c with 85% humidity @22:00, I had the windows down, listening to the warble of the L28. Two things happened: 1. I had knocked off the rubber hatch seal and was sucking fumes - so now I feel light headed and have a head ache. Definitely worth getting it sorted, well done you! [emoji106] 2. My ears are ringing like I’ve been to a rock concern!! (And I still have the quietest of all, “Street muffler” on the car!)

I've driven with both and didn't feel any difference but if you already have a bunch of TTT hardware installed you might as well keep going, at least all the components will have equal strength.

I have Moogs and they're fine for my driving. No track time, just cruising around town and laying on it on the interstate. My Moogs have grease zerks so that's why I bought those. Remember the passenger's side is normal threads. Driver's side is left handed.

Damn! I would have gotten you a gift yesterday.

I’m glad it helped someone! Great job 👏🏽 I was much less careful with my assembly as everything is getting completely overhauled.

All fixed! The issue causing my brake light fuse to blow was a faulty turn signal switch. As stated above, I got the turn signal switch to partially work yesterday, so today I disassembled it again for repairs, but it failed testing with an ohm meter. I think too much plastic melted into the contacts and I was unable clean it good enough. See attached photos. Luckily I had a spare switch from a later model 240Z (longer wiring harness) that was a perfect match. I was easily able to coil/roll-up the longer harness under the steering wheel. Glad to be back on the road to enjoy a Wisconsin summer. Nate (ZNate)

I contacted kruked at the Zilvia forum, sent him a pic of the circuit board and he confirmed the ECU is for a manual car so my next move is to replace the Coolant Temp Sender and see what that does. Apparently some of these engines hang on idle and some don't.

Thanks for the pointers. I found several sets of instructions on the internet, each with their own variation on the techniques. I ordered a donner steering wheel off of e-bay and will try and source some wood for it from Woodcraft, a chain on this side of the Atlantic that specializes in wood crafting tools and has a great selection of interesting hardwoods. I'll likely create a steering wheel out of some scrap wood first so I don't make as many errors on the expensive wood.

A soldering iron with a flattish tip will work. A small piece of stainless mesh can be embedded from the back side across the crack using heat. The metal strengthens the joint. There are hot staplers available that do a very similar thing. Hot wire staples would really beef up the repair. You might find it necessary to paint the whole thing when your done to fully conceal the joints and get an even finish. Be carefulful of using too much heat. You can distort the piece of lose the finished texture

50% ATF 50% Acetone

No, the patterns are different. The 240 mm is three sets of three holes, and the 225 is six evenly spaced holes. You can see it in the pressure plates. You can't use a 225 plate on a 240 flywheel, or vice-versa. Edit - this statement might not be correct. CREATE DO LOOP - 225 (8 7/8") 240 (9 1/2")

Not as bad as I thought. May be time for this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBAO7DV/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=A2W3M6PH7V4H54&psc=1

The bolt patterns are different between 225 and 240 clutches. I think that the Fidanza flywheel might be drilled for either, but if you go with a Nissan flywheel you need to use the pressure plate that matches the flywheel. p.s. the 225 mm flywheels are almost impossible to find on the aftermarket. Everybody has gone to 240 mm only. You can get the clutch kits but not the flywheels. Something to consider if you find a problem with your flywheel. https://www.fidanza.com/products/aluminum-flywheel-143281?variant=11938804858923

The seller commented this morning. Said he didn't notice. He has sold quite a few Z's, I counted seven back to 2019, and he highlighted the engine number stamp on all of them. He probably has staff that do his internet sales stuff though. Somebody did something shady in California years ago.

Kroil. Amazon

A wooden stand like this is handy for fitting the flywheel and clutch. its easy to make around an engine or sump with a bit of decking board. You can even put castors on it to roll the engine around. (corner needs to be cut away for the oil pump before use!)

I like to pull the engine and transmission as a unit, swap the transmission to the fresh engine and then reinstall as a unit. Also, I find it easier to remove the intake and exhaust with the engine in the car, and reinstall after the engine is back in. Fewer things to get in the way or hang up along the way.

True, but 9-10 yrs ago it was a much cheaper car!

You're probably right, looks like a nice Z other than the doctored block numbers and 9-10 yrs ago almost no one would have cared.

Also the two pads are at different heights

The no.1 on the cap did not correspond with the position of the rotor. I didn’t check, I just trusted!! So when I put the leads back on the timing was somewhere between 270-290 degrees BTDC. She was struggling to start, so I gave her full choke, full throttle and ....... booooom! The charge was compressed (read heated) but not lit, the exhaust valve opened and as the charge was being pushed out, it got a spark!!!! As it hit the muffler expansion area, it found even more oxygen. 4 neighbours rushed out to check if I was OK, promptly followed by my wife rushing out of the house to tell me off for making too much noise! Now that’s the essence of true love and a solid marriage. I discovered weeks later that neighbours down the road, whom weren’t aware of my car antics, were still debating who had set off a shot gun in the road! :D Ps. The engine was just fine and if you saw my recent exhaust muffler test videos you can see she’s still singing lovely 5 years later! ;)

Back in the 70's every car smelled like gas, it was normal. Mmmmm, leaded gas, I miss that smell.

Happy birthday to Mario Andretti, 81 years young today.