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The sellers picture taking skills are impeccable!

@siteunseen & @jfa.series1 very helpful! Thanks guys!

Success with the clip removal. Twisting and prying just was not working except for bending up the clip flange , so I heated up the clips with the torch and pulled them right out with very little effort. Obviously can not do that if you are planning on reusing your cable-the rubber sheathing melted off real quickly. I will be needing new clips to go along with the new cable. I will do some research and see if we can come up with a good part number. I have the Raybestos cable which appears to be of good quality and crimps similar to the original cable. I will try to keep you updated. All the other handbrake parts are either in the EVAP-O-RUST jug, or have been cleaned , primed, and painted with new cotter pins and flange bolts already in my parts bag with the new cable. Someday I will actually start putting all the new or refurbished parts back on to the resurrection project. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.

Yes, it's not so much "I must have X# PSI", it's the difference between the high and low cylinders. 125 PSI is 86% of 145 PSI. You're good according to the manual, although since the alternative is rather extensive work, I wouldn't mind if pressure was less than 80% of the high cylinder. I usually do a wet & dry test to have some idea whether any lower pressures are due to rings, or to valves.

I was all over the place when I started. First tried a 240Z valence, but it is way to high and does not clear the 280Z frame under the larger radiator. Ended up going with the 240Z fibreglas air dam because it is stiffer and self supporting at high speeds. The Xeon PU air dams tend to fold up under the bumper at high wind speeds. You can solve that problem by adding brackets to support the lower edge of the air dam. The 240Z version which will need some trimming to fit the 280Z. No big deal and easy to do at home. See Airdam-2 & 3. The grill is a modified 240Z / 280Z combination with 9 bars instead of the original 240Z 7 bar version.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Datsun-Z-Series-/324840608189?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Another sweet convertible. Hard to resist hitting the Buy now button

Stop and focus. I'm guessing that you're worried about making another mistake, and that's keeping you from reading carefully. From my previous post, "with the key in OFF, you should have an open line on the L or "lamp" wire on the T plug to the white wire, and it should have continuity when the key is ON. That is because it is a switched source." S - Sensing battery voltage. When the battery voltage drops, the voltage regulator excites the field to raise the output voltage of the alternator. L - Lamp: On a lot of old cars, there is a light to indicate a charging failure. Under normal conditions, the voltage is the same on both sides of the light. When the alternator starts to fail, the voltage drops on the alternator side, and the bulb lights up. When the car is off, the alternator is not producing any power (and therefore no voltage), so if you are not using a switched source, the charging light would be lit all of the time. By the way, these are the alternators I'm used to playing with. The alternator is inside the red rectangle. This one is a 16 cylinder engine with quad turbos. It will put out over 2 megawatts of power. The usual voltage output is 4.16kV to 14.4kV.

You know how to use the tool to give you the answer you seek. The S or "sense" terminal is to sense the battery voltage. Therefore, with the MSA jumper plug in place, you should see continuity between the sense wire at the T plug and the white wire where the fusible link plugs in. Just make sure that you Have the black (common) probe at the T plug. Have the ignition key in OFF. Conversely, with the key in OFF, you should have an open line on the L or "lamp" wire on the T plug to the white wire, and it should have continuity when the key is ON. That is because it is a switched source.

Told 'ya!

My only thing with vietnamese from futofab was the rear sides under the turn signals were they were right on the cars paint. I bought some rubber squares I think from Lowes in the specialty draws they have. Worked out just fine. Oh yeah, the stainless bolts weren't included so I bought those at Lowe's as well and polished them up with my bench grinder. Look good too.

The center piece was a perfect fit to the OE bumper mounts, also a perfect match to the curve of the rear valance. That was a significant problem I previously had with the Taiwan-sourced bumpers sold by MSA and Futofab (I tried both) - the arc of the center piece was too shallow to fit the valance. On the Vietnam unit, the welded-on mounting tabs on the end pieces required a bit of adjusting to line up with the bolts that go thru the fenders and tuck in to the fender grooves. Luckily no scratches or other issues but then my car is more garage queen than driver. 😉

I’m need to work on my landings [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh dear, I’m afraid it’s another case of YNUABEH (you’re not using a big enough hammer) With the bolts out, it free to rotate. Put a large pair of pliers, BA pipe wrench etc on it, and whack it with a BEH (see above)

It was brutal! I've done the best I could and always knew I probably wouldn't end up with a Concours product. That being said I did expect a very nice finished product that I could be proud of....This was FAR from that. My hats off to everyone here that is spending the time and money to get to that level! I can't imagine how long it takes and how expensive that becomes. I had an idea in my head how long this would take and how much money I would have in it......I have doubled both! The guy that ran that shop was pretty embarrassed and did the right thing. In the end they did a nice job at their expense the second go around. Me and him are fairly close though, It could have been really bad if it were with someone I had no relationship with.

Well, this one is...unique. It's like the owner couldn't stop cutting and pasting until the z was no more. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324823185020?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D234294%26meid%3D5f0acbf0e3a74447a67110b6cced77d3%26pid%3D101113%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D124932556786%26itm%3D324823185020%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108