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Ditto on the Happy Birthday Mark. You hang with a rough crowd, but if Site will drink with you I will too! As for @robbishish.....way to come into the forum feet first. Just hope you own a Z and not a Studebaker!

Spent Saturday at Dinwiddie Drag Strip Racing Eiji....again!!! He won......no way to treat a good friend. We had a ball.....big block Chevy guys loved the Datsuns and Eiji turned a 13.65! 97F43F4E-4656-4774-953D-277440D5127B.MOV

So brought the car inside and cleaned it up. Used some Ospho on it. Then a couple of days later I sanded it all with 320 on a DA. So I realized that I might get some over spray on the headliner, which I installed while it was on the rotisserie. Then got it wrapped up So all wrapped up and was going to spray some epoxy but the idiot running the shop forgot to check if we had some!!

I prefer the adjustable one. First adjust the clutch pedal to the proper height. (specs are in any repair manual) Without the spring attached shorten the rod until there is slack in the lever movement. Now lengthen it until there is about 1/16" of slack before the lever (and r. bearing) puts pressure on the p. plate. If there's no gap the r. bearing will continue to turn with the p. plate. Now the clutch pedal should have a bit of slack at the top of the stroke before you feel the p. plate resistance and should go down far enough to release the clutch. The bottom line is, if there's too much free play at the top of the pedal stroke and the clutch won't fully disengage, lengthen the rod. If there's no free play at the top of the stroke and the clutch slips, shorten the rod.

IMHO, I would pull that kit off and call Mike at Banzai Motors and order the proper seat covers.

I have a tick on my MSA 3-2 headers the paintable type between port 4-5 tried a bunch of different gaskets they always end up blowing out over time. I retighten cold but I just deal with it I guess I could get the header flange resurfaced

I'm sure someone will chime in with a more scientific response, but I remember reading that you are supposed to re-torque the exhaust hardware after a few heat cycles..which I have interpreted as cold. I believe I have the cheaper version of the same header as you...the MSA paintable 6 to 1(non coated). I have the same tick, and it gets a little louder when the car is at normal operating temperature. I will contend, however, that I did "lightly" drop the header last year when I had the engine out of the car, so I'm sure my tick is self inflicted. I have replaced the OEM exhaust hardware with studs from MSA, and I have indeed tightened them while hot...but certainly not very much tighter than they were. It made the tick only barely less noticeable, and preceded go back to the same noise level after another long drive..but again, I probably have a small fracture. So cold is probably safest, hot is ok as long as you are careful not to put too much pressure on your wrist torque wrench.

One funny thing happened while I was taking photos was that I was stopped after taking a picture of the Porsche below. The owner wanted me to feel his headlights, and it wasn't even a dirty proposition. As I walked over to his car, I said, "Oh, do you have the concave headlights from Cibie?" It surprised him that I figured it out. I let him know the concave Cibies were valued in the Z car world. It's great when different parts of the car loving universe can intersect.

Well, I haven't been driving the Z much lately, but the weather looked good for the Worship meet today. Worship was started by people who thought our local Caffeine and Octane show was getting overwhelmed by non-car people. I like going because people don't care that I don't have a show car. They are more than interested in the modifications I have made. It was cold starting out, and it took a while for people to show up. There were only 2 other 1st gen Zs there, plus a 350Z. One of the highlights for me was when a guy in a Cayman drove up with his German Shepherd. As soon as he opened the door for her, she made a bee-line straight for me. She was such a sweetheart. It was a good sized crowd eventually. Just to prove I didn't have the only Z there, here is my friend's Series 1.

Oh wow I think I have that in my parts bin if not that looks like I could fabricate that. Now to find what the drivers side looks like although I would assume a mirror of that EDIT : yup found it in my what in the hell is this part bin. thanks for the pic below is a picture of the entire bracket

Good timing on your request, my 1970 propeller (drive) shaft is currently sitting on my workbench. I measured the "X" dim as 53.4mm and the "Y" dim as 44.9mm, using a digital caliper. To do direct center to center measurements I first zeroed the calipers on one of the holes, see pics below. The holes measured 8.10/8.15mm dimeter, clearance for an M8 bolt. Sorry I don't have a 260Z shaft.

Toilet in the cockpit. A little fun wordplay there.

It would be in the FSM's for the later year Z's. Maybe 73 and after. Actually, I just looked and 73 and after is the non-adjustable type.

Have you taken the hand brake hardware loose yet up by the shifter? That should allow you to feed cable out towards the wheels. decompressing the spring

My basic point is - your ignition system might be bad, or incorrectly wired, despite the fact that i's new and you followed instructions. Disconnect, test, know. Use the process of elimination.

I googled "datsun 240Z slave cylinder" to check what was availabe. The first hit was a shocker from a webshop for Z parts. The parts are a mix match of the early and later types. Here they show a later type slave cylinder without the spring anchor point (red circle) and the non adjustable push rod (blue circle). Then they simple supply a spring (green circle) and describe is as early OEM nos parts. Early looks like this: Later type looks like:

Thanks everyone. When I think about being 68- Nope, really, I can't imagine being 68. Wasn't even used to being 67 before. Must be someone else. Can't be me. And yet the calendar says it's true. I'm an old fart now. Oh yeah, my once virile body (which has since gone bad) reminds me now and then of it's age. The mind however refuses to believe. My Dad chuckled when he shared with me (at the age of ninety) that he still was twenty one in his mind when he saw a good looking young woman. The apple didn't fall far from the tree. BTW Cliff, No worries, I've always been a lover not a fighter. And technically it's 9 3/4. Maturity is highly overrated. Stay young. Thanks again Mark