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I met Bob Bondurant when I attended his driving school in 1992. I wore his driving suit during some track days. At the end of the school session, he spent time with the "students" telling stories and shaking hands. It was a rush and a lasting memory to shake the hand that worked the Cobra gears at Le Mans. Rest in Peace.

I get a similar "poof" sound when I hit the brakes and they go to the floor. Although it's from me, and not the car... Sorry, I know it's "too soon", but just couldn't help myself.

Whew time flies! I’ve been on strict orders not to work on the rotsun…I mean Datsun this past month 😆 since I got married on the 23rd. But! We are free again and able to spend my weekends in the garage again. Today I was working on brakes. It’s the last thing I need to get her “running” around the block and I’ll be damned to get one ride before I start the interior. Front brakes bled well but the rear was not flowing any fluid. I back tracked the lines and found the clog in the one coming off the master. Blew that bitch out with my pressure washer and let it dry before bleeding the rear. Of course both lines leaked ( at the flexible connection) so new line are ordered. I also order two new calipers and lines for the front because safety. Sorry for the sparse updates but we are back on track! The engine started first crank today after nearly a month of sitting. So excited.

Assuming you mean a few hundredths…. 0.0625 is a 1/16. The reaction disks just keep biting people in the a z z as when you pull the rod forward or out to adjust the tip length, the disk often follows and drops down into the body of the booster, then you put the rod back in and don’t notice the extra 1/4”. Other than that, make sure you bleed the master as well

Yep. @One Way The lower block that disintegrated is made of rubber on the factory ones. I just put a set on my 240Z recently. It is a relatively soft rubber, too. Maybe I can shoot some photos and video after I'm done wrestling with the gas tank today.

Even with the good flare, I formed another piece this morning. Homemade on the left, original on the right.

New evidence this morning. Yesterday I laid a shop towel under the pressure warning switch to see if I had anything leaking there. This morning, the towel is wet. Fluid appears to be leaking from the inlet to the switch at the line from the master cylinder. I checked the fitting and it's as tight as it can get. Thinking about removing the line from the MC to the switch and checking the flare at that interface...possibly put it in the flaring tool. We shall see what I find.

What do you mean by "push rod still makes contact with the lever"? 1. Is the pushrod loose at all or is it under tension? 2. Can you push the pushrod into the slave cylinder? Have youchanged the clutch recently? Could be an issue with the pressure plate and throw out bearing collar height. Because the internals of the slave cylinders are different, The none adjustable version has a longer piston and a shorter pushrod. It's only a couple of mm so the adjustabie pushrod should compensate. Still if the piston is bottoming out you could shorten the pushrod by cutting more thread to give yourself more adjustment or shorten the pushrod. If the pushrod is under tension you can shorten the rods travel. I would meassure the fork and slave cylinder with the rod in place. Remove the rod (re-mount slave) and measure again. That will give you the over tension. You will need to shorten the rod or cut the thread that much plas 10mm to get an adjustable situation. Remember when you are finished adjusting the rod. You can push (slowly) the clutch fork into the slave cylinder about 5 - 10mm and the internal spring will push it back out and take out any free play within 1 or 2 seconds. It moves slowly due to the small port in the master cylinder.

If the pedal goes to the floor and the warning light comes on, then only one circuit is building pressure, regardless of the booster. So that should leave only a couple of options. Air in the front circuit: master, lines or calipers Or A bad master cylinder New parts doesn't mean they're good parts...

Did you check the clearance between the end of the brake rod sticking out of the booster and the inside of the master where it will touch? I’m guessing there is way too big of a gap. Should be 1/32 or 1/16 max. Also check and make sure the reaction disk is in place.

Thanks. I’ll check with the rebuilder.

I should have a couple. Let me look and see what’s there. I actually need a 240 lower valance three piece set for 11292 if anyone has one…..

This is pretty funny and somewhat true. You already have one of the best anti theft devices.

Shifter is still in the car, so the drive train is still in it. They've removed alot of the rocker and the floors were obviously weak. Thats how the gaps got distorted

Understood. I was just thinking maybe you had some measured flow numbers from the two you could compare. I was thinking that could be a data point for someone looking to verify if their injectors are the right ones or not. No biggie. Again, glad you were able to help the OP get back on track!

I kept the 280Z lower valence when I switched to early bumpers. I built a new lower grill out of a couple of spare grills. I drilled out the old rivets, stacked the extra bars, and pop riveted it all back together. Here's how it looks.

Another DATSUN Legend passes on...