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I had today off from work, so I worked on adjusting the tail light panel to make the trim panels and license light fit better. A straight edge laid across the hatch latch opening revealed a slight gap on the left side. Because the top panel of the tail light panel is not flat, I used sections of flat bar and a good quality C clamp to persuade the low spot upward. The hole just to the left of the flat bar in the third pic is the license light (left) mounting hole. After raising that up, I had improved things by about 1/32". I reinstalled the license light and the measurements on each side were equal. Unfortunately, I still had a gap between the license light assembly and the left tail light panel (first pic). The right side still fit nicely (second pic). Given that the license light was level, I pointed my attention at the left tail light panel. A little work with hammer and dolly and the "ledge" was brought downward to meet the license light assembly (third pic): Here is the license light assembly after finishing the fitting work: Next, I turned my attention to the bottom of the three trim panels. I measured the depth of the middle license panel at the left, center, and right - the right side was pushed in by 2 mm compared to the left and middle. So, I had to work a bit on the "stand off" to which the right side of the license panel secures. It was still not 100% right, even with the work I had done on it originally (it was squashed a bit when the car was hit). I was able to straighten it out the needed amount so that the depth readings were the same: left, middle, and right. Finally, I test fit the hatch and looked at the gaps at the top and bottom of the three panels: The fitting of all these bits took many hours, however, I think I finally have it. Next, I will pic back up on filler work on the tail light panel and get that looking really nice.

It is the Xenon air dam, but be warned you will have to brace it as it is very flexible and will distort at speed.

HI Jeff, The size is not any standard O-ring size which makes it hard to find a supplier. You could try an AS standard o-ring. The AS568 standard is very common in the USA. Ask for a AS568-119 (23.47x2.62mm). The cross section is a little bigger, but the o-ring also has a slightly smaller ID which will compensate. If the cross section is too thick and you can't fit the adapter without damaging the o-ring an alternative would be one size smaller AS568-118 (21.89x2.62mm). When you stretch the o-ring out to ID 24 it will reduce the cross section size enough to fit. O-ring Standards Overzicht.pdf O-ring sizes.pdf

Remove the striker from the car body and manually insert it in to the door latch. That will give you a clue if it's an adjustment problem or a sticky latch. If it's a sticky latch you might try removing it and giving it a good hosing with carb cleaner then relubricating.

Bingo ! There are also Hakosuka , Ken meri , etc ..And it is so tasty . This rice cracker is a popular Japanese snack “ Kaki no Tane “ ( persimmon seeds) . It is soy sauce flavored and it is a perfect combination with peanuts . Kats

Side bar…my fuel tank arrived yesterday. Looks good…it looks like it has a thick rubber coating on it. Clean inside, and it is guaranteed for life. Guy cut it in half, addressed any issues and removed all the rust and then welded it back, It was baked 3x during the process and then sealed on the outside. The exterior has paint streaks but I knew that going it. The material they use cannot be sprayed he said. As long as it trouble free I don’t care.

A few updates since last month. I’ve been able to find the studs needed to mount the mikuni manifold. Cleaned and painted it as well. Can’t wait to clean up the carbs next. I’ve been playing around a lot with the 3D printer. I created a faceplate adapter for my switch panel. Slides into my center console and I will be able to screw on the actual switch panel to this adapter via the four screw holes. Looking at original center consoles online, it looks like mine was hacked up for an aftermarket radio at one point so it was missing the upper material. This new adapter should add back in some rigidity. I also toyed around with some filler plates for the rear bumper. I know the proper way is to weld in blanks, but this was just a fun side project 🙂 they clip in and are fit very nicely! And then the big project of wiring has started. The engine bay is getting a full new harness, then I am creating adapters to plug into the dash and body harness. Originally I wanted to redo the full body harness as well but all of the connectors inside were fine. Laying out the harness side by side for lengths. Organized chaos! Luckily, my wife is out of town this week so I’m taking advantage of making the dining room a workshop for a bit. Test fitting in the bay before I start adding plugs! So satisfying to see it come together. My little helper! Im about 80% done with the fuse box side of the harness. A few small fused items left to run and then I can start working on connecting the engine bay side. During this I deviated from my original schematics so I will be needing to update that for future reference. I removed my shunt, externally regulated alternator, and all original relays/flashers. I won’t be running my amp meter, instead going for a volt meter. All relays are now modern bosch style, albeit the micro 280 series size to fit within my distribution block. I have a main 125amp circuit breaker in place, continuous duty relay as a main power trigger, and all new weather pack connectors with GXL wire. There a few circuits I’m slightly confused on so I’ll need to finish those up in car to trace all of my leads accordingly. Surprisingly I barely used my schematic I made. I used the OEM wiring diagram more often. Maybe I need to trust myself more 😉

Like once a teacher said: there are no stupid questions, there are only stupid students that don't ask.. Now.. You do know that when things get older it sometimes needs some lube... oeps..😂

For once this was an easy fix and I feel dumb bringing it to this forum. Sorry. Few blasts of break cleaner and then some Gibbs lubricant has it working again. Thanks for all the help.

Pretty Car

Harbor freight has little assortment boxes. I bought three a viton assortment, a nitrile and an EPDM?

I like the grille much more on this one..

Send me a PM with your phone number, and I'll pass it along to someone I know in North Georgia.

Very nice John! Looks just like the tank for a 75 I had done by them, has been in service for 18 months, no issues reported.

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Here’s a pic of the before and after of a guy that sent his to him. Different car but looks about as bad as mine.

Crush washer is causing it, mine has been doing it for a long time. As soon as I get new plugs and don't take them out to look at them, I never see a drop.

This is so neat Katz! Thank you for sharing. Here's my guess (verb).

Hi Ben , your posting made me take a ride with my Z today . I visited Kyoto Nissan , a sales manager gave me a cup of rice cracker featuring car line up in Nissan . Let us know about your car anytime. Kats