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Just to rewind this back the very beginning - we all suggested that the piston be removed from the bore to check the seal so that the new one does not leak like the old one did. That was the original point of the thread, I think. It has not been accomplished. Wally is still talking about a plastic or steel cap when he's looking at the face of the piston that we want him to remove. If there's no spring behind it then pressure can be used to pop it from the bore by applying air to the fluid inlet or bleed screw. Overall, he might be installing another dirty slave cylinder. A big circle with the same end result.

That is splitting hairs, I think. And z89 had a good point about telling what the sellers accepted, maybe they gave him a sweet deal because he was a good guy. In today's collector world, you're supposed to hang on for every dollar otherwise people get upset that you're harming the "marque". If the number is too low then people will start abusing "Bob and Marci" for selling too low. That actually happened on the barn find 76 280Z. Somebody implied that the seller had sold too cheap and was foolish for not holding out. Money is always a touchy subject. Ideally, big picture, z89 would have known or assumed that people on the most popular Z car site in the world might know who the previous owners were. The thread should have started with "Hey, I bought Bob and Marci's 240Z!". But he just joined a couple of years ago so apparently did not think about that. A person could argue that Patcon (sorry Patcon) should have thought about that too. Everybody wondered but was anybody really surprised when he didn't give an answer? The attempt to create an interesting story has gone awry. But it can be saved, the car is now owned by an enthusiast instead of an investor. That's a good thing, right?

I wasn't really looking for specifics... I thought it would be an interesting anecdote if a survivor Z like this could be found for a reasonable number. After watching BaT, cars like this bring, sometimes, serious money. I thought it would be encouraging to others who might be looking for a car to validate that nice cars are still available for a reasonable price. That is why I asked

I don't have any adbockers, up to date Chrome on Windows 10, newish computer, but CZCC often takes forever to load a page, and is even timing out now at times. Sometimes reloading while the little wheel is spinning helps, other times it just starts a new spinning wheel. Seems like it has to be some sort of tracking or history extraction Google thing going on. Edit - adding a @Mike . It seems like a complaint but it has to be reducing traffic on the site. Which is bad for everybody.

If you look, again, at Charles' post you'll see that he didn't ask how much the Z cost, only a "Ballpark" number which could be something nonspecific like more than $20K and less than $50K without giving away too much detail. I also understand folks being touchy about what they pay for things. Play nice, move on.

When painted the 510 last winter I bought a gallon of paint and a gallon of reducer for $500-600.00, blue paint is always more expensive because of the solids. Just yesterday I picked up a half gallon of white paint, half gallon of reducer premixed, I paid $400.00 and white is the cheapest colour. So yeah the prices have gone up. High build primmer $100, hardener $30, a gallon of thinners for clean up $22, clear coat and activator $260, now I can tell you if those have gone up since last year, I have to have them so I don't look at the price. To paint a car with quality materials your looking at least $3,000 ebay for the LED strips The polycarbonate is 3/16th thick, the black pipe is ABS from the hardware store, the straight blocks are glued with epoxy panel bond, the flexible block I used Permetex Polyurethane glue.

How is no rude. It’s simple and to the point. I’m not boasting. I’m sharing the fulfillment of a childhood dream. I come here to share and learn. This is my second amazing find I’ve shared here. I work hard at this. I have another barn find I’ve been working on for close to a year. My first find was 8987. I shared that here including the price. Im choosing not to share what this one cost. Just because. If I said it’s none of your business that would be rude. Or if I said read the rest of the thread and you will see I’m uncomfortable with sharing that information, I guess you’d say that’s rude. Im not sure what works for sensitive people but no is a complete sentence. No attitude here, just no.

I have a 8 ft ceiling mounted propane radiant heater, a 3ft electric radiant heater near the door and portable propane burner that I can move under the car to heat the metal up. The big furnace fan that condenses the water out of the compressors air does double duty by keeping all the air in the shop moving around. There are so many cracks and gaps in that big garage door that fresh air is something I don't have to think about. If it's below 0 Celsius then it can take about 6hrs to get everything up to temp, 68-70F but it's easy to keep it there once all the objects in the shop are warm. If it's like -10 C there is no point trying to get it up to spray, the heat gets sucked away too quickly. I finished installing the LED strip lights this summer and it's great to have twice the amount of light than I use to, also those long lines of light are perfect for showing ripples and waves in the paint.

@Patcon simply asked for a ball park figure. The ballpark can be any size you like. You boast upon your find which I think is fantastic but a rude response was not necessary.

I got all the paint off, sanded down to fresh metal and laid on 2 coats of epoxy primer, there will be no rust starting this time around. I tried to order a set of the new Acrylic Linear blocking tools but everyone was sold out so I ordered some polycarbonate sheet and put these together. I'll never go back to the hard foam blocks, these cut so fast and flat. 2 coats of high build primer went on next and that has been blocked out to 220 grit and I put another 2 coats of HB primer on today so I should be able to start with 320 tomorrow morning. I picked up the paint and clear so I'm all set, the colour will be Sport Classic Grey is 63A / L63A. a Porsche colour.

Interesting score on the silver '71 restored car today. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-209/ In the last three years, six cars have sold at or over $100,000. Two more did not sell with bids at or over $100,000. In the previous four years, no cars sold for the $100,000 mark. Three high priced cars had provenance, 2 Vintage Zs and the Franklin Mint car, one supposed low-mileage-all-original car went for an astronomical price while another low mileage example did not sell even though it was in the same range average as all the rest. I'm glad and surprised to see this restored example do so well. It was very nicely done.

Congrats on the excellent sale! It was very well done and deserved a good price. Don't spend it all in one place 😉

Off topic - I had to build a Faraday cage from copper mesh to get a CD player to work way back when. You could hear the local radio station on the land line in our apartment, the complex was right next to an antenna. (I am not sure how that worked either since it should have needed a tuner. But the voices were there...). I bought a CD player, took it home, loaded it up (one of those 6 at a time jobbies), and it wouldn't play. I took it back to the store and they tried it and it played. Took it home, still didn't work. The radio over the phone line had always bothered me so it was in mind. I had access to copper mesh so built a tube of mesh around the CD player and it worked. One of those weird things where book learning actually had real world value. Never actually figured out which component was affected.

Well when I first saw the title I thought it meant the activity here was slow, Guess not, eh? For me, my innernet connection at home sucks, it is ADSL, which was pretty good 16 years ago, but with today’s web experience that leverages the high speed fiber optic experience that most people have, most web pages are slow for me. The kicker is that Comcast hung brand new fiber in my area a few years ago, but it stops about a mile from my house. They say thee aren’t enough customers on the dead end road we live on to justify the expense to bring it that last mile. Greedy bastards. When I am on my phone, in town, everything is blazing fast. Even in The Big Shed, which is essentially a giant faraday cage, but the company has an AT&T network inside, so great throughput.

Konig Rewinds - They are the popular budget choice. That is why my friend doubles on the gasket to help with sealing. It usually works, and a high quality flange on the header certainly helps. There are some threads on here discussing that. It's a good opportunity to learn how to use the search functions unless @siteunseenpops in with his indexed search on headers. 😉

Wow! I hate to be "that guy", but we just got on with Infinity/Comcast and my speeds have increased. Before with a phone line modem things were very slooow. I have NO loading problems with the site. Thanks Mike. Cheers, Mike

I this photo you are looking at the piston. Going by your remarks it looks like you have not removed the piston to check if everything is clean inside and free of any machine filings. I would do that before going any further. You can push it out buy removing the two mounting bolts and pumping the clutch pedal slowly to push it out. When the piston comes out, disconnect the hose and clean the slave cylinder. Don't re-use the fluid that comes out as it could contain contaminants. A lot going on in this thread. Also refering to Zed Heads comments: This thread started with a new leaking slave cylinder. That is the first issue that should be addressed.

Baking soda and water will neutralize the acid. Sand and repaint the rusted area and you're good for another 52 years.

I hate to feed the fire, but, although Patcon is always one of the level-headed respectful members, in this case, asking how much somebody paid is not quite right. I think the old word to describe the request used to be "gauche", I although I don't know why since it's just French for left. So we had a wrong request and a poor response and now people are piling on. He did provide the VIN and it is in Carl Beck's list. And, I think that "Bob and Marci" have posted on the site since I joined back in 2009. So, maybe they had a reason to sell. Maybe something happened. That's where I would go if I knew them or had a personal relationship with them. I would @ them but if they wanted to talk about selling their car they probably would have posted already.

Its a Beck Arnley, whatever that is. Here is an image of it. I am going to take it back of and look back inside....better safe than sorry

It's been a number of years since I was into a clutch slave cylinder but as I recall the rod pushes directly on the piston, not on a piece of black plastic.

Thanks a lot Steve i'm really appreciate your help. I will use the weekend to solve it out. I'm from Europe, Denmark near Copenhagen, but the car is from CA. I got it to Denmark,July last year. Bought it in February on BAT and recieved it in July!! Was sure that I never would recieve it.

Is it a European model? It might be the same as the US model. Your earlier post asking for the light bulbs for that and the hazard switch led me to believe you had a 74 or later, so I gave you the wrong answer for that post. If you haven't already done so, you can download an English language version of the factory service manual from the downloads section of this website. There is a link in my signature. The circuit comes off the fusebox and goes to the dash harness as a green wire. The green wire goes to the body harness. It branches off in two directions. One goes to the weight switch under the passenger side seat. The other branch is a green/black wire going to the driver side seat belt latch. From the weight switch the wire comes out as green/black and goes to the passenger side seat belt latch. From the latch, it comes out as a green wire. From the driver side seat belt latch the wire comes out green and joins with the wire from the passenger side latch. That green wire goes to the transmission neutral switch and comes out green. That wire branches off to the seat belt warning light and the buzzer. I believe the buzzer is only grounded when the driver door is open.

I do have a 2ft by 2ft fan blowing out the small access door on the main garage door, you can see it on the right side of the pic just above your last post. That is running all the time that I'm spraying. Primer doesn't put much of anything into the air so that doesn't seem to be a problem, paint and clear coat do so when painting I have to stop occasionally for a minute and let the mist clear out. Clear coat really mists up the air but since I'm going to wet sand all of the clear anyway I don't worry about it, overspray from the base colour coat is my only concern so I have to go slowly and take short breaks to let the air clear. It's certainly not ideal but I have learned how to work with it. Boom, yes always top of mind, the propane burners open flame is never on while spraying, I'll also turn off the big overhead radiant heater while spraying paint or clear only leaving the electric radiant heater on. Once the car and panels are up to temp. they stay warm enough for the 10 min. it takes to get a coat on everything, as soon as the mist has cleared I turn on all the heat to let everything cure.

Honestly that’s the best way to straighten out the one guy. He’s totally responsible for this. I was having a blast here. I’ll come here for help. I’ve got a lot out of the forum, I’ll continue to ask for help and share the results of the help I get. I checked out my oil bar tonight. I had to make a remote ignition switch and then I made a video of the oil bar in action. The oil bar was functioning 100%. Much better than the other car. The first oil bar I removed from my other z came apart in 3 pieces. This one looked like brand new. The cam and retainers look like new. I think this is a result of regular oil changes and the proper care and feeding of the car. My other z looked like the oil was never changed. It was black everywhere in the valve cover. The oil pan told a story. It has 2” of sludge. There was part in the oil pan. It was pretty cool to see that also. It was seriously abused. I’ll stick to technical stuff. That’s what I like most of all.

Don't let one guy ruin it for everybody. It's the internet. Edit - Actually I see several people criticising. Still, ride it out. The vast majority of car buffs were not top students in English class. Writing, reading, and comprehension skills only went as far as making a list of car parts while the teacher spoke. If your intentions were good it will come through. Good luck with the car.

Newsflash: by peppering this thread with multiple photos of your latest acquisition you are boasting. You could learn much from Bob and Marci, the original owners of this car, on the finer points of etiquette.

Disappointing...

The past few weeks I thought the site went totally down intermittently. I think last week I couldn’t even open the homepage. I thought it was solar flares [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi All, All good info, thank for your input. Classic Tube sold me a single replacement line, understood there could be a bad line within the kit. . Dutchzcarguy great tip with phone / camera when visibility is impossible without removing the entire block. Cleaned up the internal cone and installed the new fitting/ line, leak gone :).

118,000, never driven in the rain. No oil on the floor where it was kept.

Hi and thanks for your proposed solution. However, I do have the original harness for the car so this bit I have. My problem is I have to split and take out all the non-necessary wiring out of my harness and re-wrap. This is probably my only option...I was wishfully thinking that some manufacturer would ahve the proper harness designed for a RB25 DET swap for the Z but I was being wishful or Naive. Thanks for your interest in the project. I am in New-Brunswick Canada (east coast) and one of my sales person for my company is Dutch (Go Verstappen !) Bruno