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A Safari Gold Z432 with my Fairlady 240ZG . This Z432 belongs to Mr. Uekubo , he did restoration work by his own hands , metal work , paint work , and mechanical components refurbish work , interior trimming work , and S20 rebuilding. It took him almost 20 years to complete when he finally took the car on the road in 2021 . He was cleaver to do it, he had been collecting parts from local Nissan since late 1990’s . So most of parts which were applied in this car are NOS parts from Nissan , just amazing. Funny thing is, he found this Z432 in a vegetable field covered by lots of dart and soil .If he didn’t decide to take it, this Z432 would have been returned to the earth. He chose a set of replica “ Nissan works rally wheel “ . Looks great in his car . Kats FullSizeRender.mov

This one just sold for over $100K. Nice. https://www.hemmings.com/auction/1971-datsun-240z-883659?fbclid=IwAR0hVKsk24dcp2jaHbCDk8kxKv30YbKtFpGs6G3xG51f1rD7aInJSHVmVfE

Seems like you would, since the cross-sectional mass ratio (I made that term up) will be different on the side with the drilled balance holes compared to the side without.

I'm pretty sure our stock flywheels are single mass. So when you replace it with a lightweight single mass I believe it is not supposed to make more noise. However, I replaced my stock flywheel with the Fidanza one, had it all balanced, and now I have a bit more chatter in the transmission. Perhaps my transmission is a bit worn? Not sure,but it shifts good, doesn't wine at speed or have any noticable problems. Just a bit more noise. Now after 4,000+ miles I don't notice it.

I did some digging on-line to try to find good theory description info about that little capillary tube and didn't come up with anything great. I'm probably just not using the right search words, but I couldn't find anything I'm comfortable linking to here. I found stuff, but nothing good enough to link to. My read on the design is the capillary tube is filled with "something" (either a liquid or a gas)* and it's job is to provide some regulation of the temperature of the air coming off the heater core. As the temperature of that coiled tube heats up, the fluid inside expands and will push the little piston out at the far end and that will (depending on the position of the temperature control slider) close down the valve some amount. Been a while since I looked at it in detail, but memory says that sensor/piston device can only CLOSE the valve. It cannot open it. Memory also says that sensor/piston has a limited range of effect on how much it is able to close the valve. I think if the slider is moved to full hot, that sensor has no effect. And since the sensor/piston can only close the valve and cannot close it, it has no effect when the lever is on full cold. It only provides some temperature control between the two extremes. * I found sources that say "freon", "ether", "alcohol".

You gave enough details to get a good guess. I'm glad it was that easy.

I might agree with you. The information I found mostly on this site is how I came up with this. It’s my understanding that the rear brakes require 10 psi of constant pressure, the front brakes do not. It’s also my understanding that the master cylinder is what maintains the 10 psi for the rear brakes but does not maintain constant pressure for the front brakes. If this is true and the brake lines are reversed, then a constant pressure of 10 psi will be on the front brakes and none on the back. The same thing was said in the referring pages I found above. At least that’s how I interpreted it. It doesn’t make sense to me that a manufacturer would label a product front (f) and rear ® if it doesn’t matter. I have very little experience with this, but I did run into this problem in the past. I’m not here to be right, I’m here to learn. If I’m wrong, that tells me to dig deeper. I don’t know what to look for next. Zedhead, what is wrong with analysis and conclusion? I’m honestly here to learn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. My left rear drum was stuck. I found today that no fluids come out of the brake cylinder when it's pressurized and I open the bleeder. 2. I also discovered that my master cylinder is not connected to the differential switch as it should be. I started tracking all of this here. For me at this point it's the same issue. I have noticed the front brakes dragging which can be caused by #2 above. I believe getting my master cylinder / differential switch setup properly.

Thanks! Paid a bit more close attention this time. It was beeping as intended without the seat belt. With the seat belt it did cranks nicely. Relay turned up fine i think. I started cold so it did gave me some problems at the start. I am changing the temp/thermo time/cold start valve connectors as they are all loose and broken next. Test out the cold start injector on the machine and finally its time to change the thermal coupler on the fan.

That's right. There should be 4 screws, but you only have 3 when you twist the head off one. That happened when I changed bulbs 22 years ago. Why did I need to change bulbs? I put in a new alternator and didn't know it was internally regulated. I was checking my new relay setup and running the car to test the new alternator. I measured the voltage at the battery and saw 17 volts! Before I could turn off the car, the passenger headlight went *poof*! A little research on Zhome.com, and I figured out my problem, and bypassed the voltage regulator.

I thought it odd what they said about the paint. I guess it’s possible, but unusual. No? “The seller says the Racing Green paint is original, though he notes “a few touch-ups” done after it had been stored under covers for 40 years. Seller describes that the original paint was wet sanded, touched up, clear coated, and buffed out.” If it’s original paint, why not just touch up and buff out? I’d be worried about the clear coat pealing later on if that is what they did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I absolutely need to get started on reassembling that engine. I am a bit stuck on some details. And of course, time is a factor. But I miss driving the car. It has about 46k original miles. The only reason I took it out was to fix a leaking front main seal and ro cleanit up. Then I spotted oil staining on the exhasut gasket, which I attributed to worn valve guide seals. So I pulled the head. And now I want to clean the engine bay up too...

I should have mentioned that my machinist always does that too, including the rod bolts and caps. In all the time I’ve been building engines the stock Nissan rods have never required adjustment to get them equal in weight. I forget the tolerance, but if memory serves me, a few tenths of a gram.

And if you really want to go whole hog, equal the weights of all the connecting rods and pistons.