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I put the springs in the shoes with the shoes laying on the ground then fold the shoes up like a book. Hold them up to the backing plate and open the book to get the shoes placed correctly. Then insert the pins and retainers. You need to be dexterous with one hand, holding the shoes in place with one while you try to get the pins and retainers inserted with the other, or use your knee to keep the shoes in place once you get them up there. If I was going to do it again I might use a bungee cord to hold the shoes in place while I put the pins and retainers in. One way to do it.

Totally agree with that John! Glad your issue came to a successful resolution. Your research into a source for reconditioning the heater valve for the 280's is a huge help to anyone faced with the problem. Very significant!!

Well, I think I figured out why she was a little grumpy at times on the freeway. Back in 2008, when I went to look at the 260Z that now sits in my garage, the owner said it wasn't running. After digging through the engine bay for a couple of hours, I found a distributor cap damaged in a similar fashion but worse.

Zup, glad I’m helping where I can. I couldn’t complete this “return to the road restoration” without the fine folks on this forum. I’m indebted to many of you. Also I’ve made some friends here and that’s keeps me motivated to keep pushing to get this car back on the road. Lots of set backs, wait times for parts and repairs. But I try to not let it get to me. Example: I just called the paint shop about my Air Dam . They’ve had it almost 4 weeks. The guy told me the painter age 32 died during the last ice storm when he slipped and ruptured his spleen. Terrible news and a sad loss of life. How can I be frustrated, with that. His name was Andy. Just got to take all the set backs in stride. The goal is ZCON and I’m not sure what will be the limiting factor….my car or my wife 🤨 Today I’ve pulled the dash apart to install the new Vintage Dash. I had some rust areas on the frame and I couldn’t stomach putting a new dash over a slightly rusty frame . So I Sanded, primed and painted it. Now I hope I remember how this all goes back together. My old dash literally split in half on removal.

Rare would be the East German version??!!

So, I was fortunate that a member on here was kind enough to cut and use a special tool to flare the pipe end so now I’ll have a easy 90 deg turn. It was the best solution but I just didn’t have to tools to do it. Great to have awesome people come to your rescue.

My d21 jumped fire for 5 years? maybe. Ran like crap on acceleration then cleared up. It was tough pulling my boat but I cared more about the boat than the truck. My Dad, God bless him and his attitude, said try a new cap. $5 and him busting my balls for the next year is all it was.

I used these on my 240. Then covered with liquid electrical tape. Turned out good, water proof too. Slides on the "nail head" terminals.

Hi Kats, It looks like your wait is over; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/o1035873205 Pictures from link for long term reference In the blue as per Alan's comment of "Factory replacement spare parts came in (manufacturer) Tsuchiya's factory blue colour"

Back in the old days it was not unusual to carry a spare cap/rotor/points. Caps were not made of the nice thermoplastics that you see today and were susceptible to cracking if hit with cold water when they were hot. Points? Well, there's a good reason why you haven't seen points on a new car in a long time. I suspect that I did not have the coil wire pushed all of the way down into the cap, or there was a defect in the cap that I could not see. Those are the two likeliest scenarios. I should have a replacement cap this afternoon with a couple of spares arriving in a few days. I try to stock some caps anyway for when I am working on other people's Z cars.

For my never ending project, I swapped an MSA Type 2 spoiler for a Type 1 and installed a 240 bumper. Please let me know if your interested in the Type 2 spoiler.