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Final update: the afm wasn't sticking per-say but there was a fair bit of play in the flap/wiper-arm, so I'm guessing one of the bushings inside the device has had it. It's possible that 'lean boot' was the car starting with the arm not in the right spot because of the flap/wiper-arm play (you could move it forward/back a good quarter inch). I completely made that up but sounds feasible to me. THAT SAID, I got a different afm without that issue and retuned it with the gauge and no lean-boot issues so far (knock on wood). This AFM was unmolested and even still had the cover factory-glued shut and the plug in the idle enrichment hole. Knowing that AFM was tuned to factory spec allows me to do this: Steps to tune a 280z without an air fuel gauge: - Be sure your AFM is sitting at factory configuration - if the cover is glued on that's a good indication its factory (if this isn't the case, get one that is or an air fuel gauge) - Be sure your engine does not have any vacuum leaks (smoke test it) - Disconnect your altitude sensor under the dash (if your car came with one) - Disconnect your EGR vacuum hose and cap it (the stock afm configuration is based on that being connected I think). Cap your carbon canister line too if you'd like although the amount of air coming in from that compared to EGR is trivial and barely changes the readings at all. - Be sure your coolant temp sensor's (efi one not the temp gauge one) resistance tests within factory spec in the FSM (the temp sensor changes mixture richness so that needs to be operating properly for this to work) - Check that your TPS is in spec by following this guide - Take the cap off your throttle position sensor (TPS) and GENTLY bend the WOT arm away from the middle arm by the base NOT THE TIP (like in the pictures in previous pages) BE CAREFUL. Datsun built the arms very close together so the car will default to running richer because they couldn't configure the engines like this at the time. In my case, anything over 1/4 pedal pressure had the TPS tell the car computer to use WOT enrichment. - With the engine running and using a multimeter (or good eyes), have someone hold the engine at highway speed rpm (4k?) and be sure that the TPS arm is not touching either of the other arm contacts (this is highway cruise mode) - Now, mark your AFM's black gear's current position then turn the black gear forward (clockwise) 4 teeth (the idle enrichment screw does not need to be touched) - If you did all of those (especially the TPS adjustment and have no vacuum leaks) then your car SHOULD idle between 13.8 and 14.2 and have a highway cruise of 14.7 (5th gear ~3800 rpm at 65mph) NOTE: this is with an engine with no vacuum leaks and tuned to factory spec (valves, timing, etc) according to the "ET" chapter of the FSM. All efi connectors have been cleaned according to this list. These are the steps I followed over the past year and should work on all 280z engines within factory spec but I am not responsible if it does not work for you and something negative happens. At the end of the day, these cars were tuned to run rich out of the factory because running too rich won't destroy the engine, running too lean will but getting it just right like this is a pleasure. Datsun didn't have the ability to test the engine running as a unit this precisely - they could only test each sensor before it went in and smell the tail pipe as there were no wideband o2 sensors in the 70s for this use if at all. Getting an o2 sensor to do this or even confirm your work is highly recommended, but if you don't want to, then follow these steps.

I moderate the zcar.com forum. When a new seller pops up with a list of stuff within hours after they join, I watch them like a hawk and warn members about paying before they receive any merchandise. When someone responds to a "parts wanted" post within minutes or hours of joining and offers the needed part, and especially if they say "contact my friend Bob, he has the part" I immediately delete the post and ban them. The Z-car forums seem to pull a LOT of scammers. I have no patience and no mercy.

That is an interesting list of "pop up sellers" I have seen these kinds of scams a lot recently. When someone posts a want ad then these people all have one available. All new members with no posts. Glad to hear you are pursuing the money sent to the last "seller" Best of luck on that. Since it was a nice sunny weekend I went out and took some parts off the 76 280Z parts car, for future sales. I did pull the pedals, and seem to be missing 1 spring. You should have that same spring on your brake pedal. I will get some pictures this afternoon, as I am headed to work for the day. I will PM the pics and a price. I will also look into the shipping to Spain.

It's a shame they always throw wheels into a pile to be never matched up or sometimes never even make it out of the back where you can't go. I'm not far from there I'll try and swing in to see what's there. I'm actually going to pick up a free parts ZX today but thats in Edmonds the opposite direction from where I'm at.

This doesn't seem relevant anymore although it is odd that the guy has not been back since he made his 3rd post May 13, 2016. Whoever the guy is.

Lets wait for the final input before i make the investment.

Let's open these questions up to members who are much more knowledgeable than me. My thoughts are, if you go with a header, go with a ceramic coated one. According to Cliff his carbs stay cool. Unfortunately, I know even less about switching to a 60 amp alternator except that it seems to be recommended when using elec. fans, especially two of them.

I picked these vintage ones up years ago at a garage clean-out, and I'll never use them. They probably aren't what you're looking for, but you can't beat the price - cover the cost of shipping and they're yours.

I would say at that price, it already is

The hood was the last piece to be done today, tomorrow I start dropping the engine back in.

Before you know it, it will be cheaper just to put on TBIs and Megasquirt.

Are you staying with incandescent or are you switching to LEDs? Also I didn't mention earlier that circuit voltage can affect the flash rate with the electromechanical flashers. For modeling purposes, R is constant. R=V/I, so if voltage drops, current drops. That's why old cars with electromechanical flashers blink slowly at idle. The alternator output drops from 14.5V to 13V or 12V. That drops the current through the circuit by 10% or more.

For the 73, there are 10 green BA9S, 1 red BA9S, 1 blue BA9S, and 1 green 194. There are also 1 red BA7 for the seat belt warning light and 1 amber BA7 for the choke warning light. Earlier 240Zs only need 9 green BA9S and don't need the 194. I also believe the BA7s are only in the 72 & 73. I forgot the count for the 280Z and 260Z.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/d/edmonds-free-yes-free-pretty-datsun/7445301020.html A free ZX no motor. I'll try and get it for parts but I'll almost guarantee someone's on their way to pick it up as I type this

Hello Let me first apologize in advance for my immodesty. It was a year ago today that I acquired my Z after winning an auction on BaT. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-161/ I was a bit concerned because I had never bought a car sight unseen before. Based on the comments on BaT I felt confident that I was making the right move and when the car came off the trailer my gut feeling was confirmed. The condition of this mostly original example is unbelievable. I invested some time and $$$ to make sure this car is reliable and safe in every way and operates and looks as if it just came off the showroom floor. A big thanks to Mike at Banzai Motorworks. (I hope this thank you is allowed.) In addition to some spirited driving, I made the 300-mile round trip to Hershey back in October, where the car won a AACA Historical Preservation of Original Features (HPOF) award. Overall, a good first year. Looking forward to when the weather breaks and we can hit the road again. First order of business is to address an intermittent year one problem involving stalling out when hot and difficulty restarting. I have already taken some action…new coil and resistor (thought heat might be compromising one or both) and new floats, needles/seats, tune carbs. I have enjoyed this forum and continue to do so. You have been a big help on a variety of issues. Jim 20210308_164006200_iOS.heic