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Viola! The new VR works now! I took it apart, violated the warranty that expired 44 years ago and moved all the contacts for freedom. One of them was stuck. See photo. I unstuck it and problem solved. The dashboard gauge reads ~14 and no charge light. However... following ZedHead's advice I checked the harness wires. I need to do some cleaning to complete the check, but right off the bat I see that my body harness wires are different than EE348 (which is the relay end). That W/R is NOT at the top on the car end. I believe its Blue/white at the top. The White/Red is 1 pin to the side. Before I put it all back together nicely, I want to finish the wire checks and get some cleaner for the contacts. Then, I'll monitor for the mystery spiking. THANKS GUYS! I've been into most everything on this Z over time, except the VR. So, its hard to imagine that the harness/pin were changed. There's a possibility that my "Z-guy" in Benbrook, TX changed out the VR to solid state a few decades back (must have, since its not stock). But, I can't imagine pins were changed.

Well, I can't make it as clean as the sample model provided up-top, but it's at least better than it was. There's a myriad of conflicting moving parts right where these wires drop down behind the engine, and I'm just now noticing the bracket which helps hold them away from the cowl was bent out of position by the previous owner, causing me to wonder how to solve the clearance issue. Some more work to be done on that side, including moving the wires to the other side of the choke cable.

My experience with Tabco parts has been that they don't tend to fit well. Reports on quality from those who have bought from KlassicFab have been very good. https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/rear-hatch-slam-panel-datsun-240z/

Thank you so much Alan, your inputs are perfect. I need to look how my Z432 has them . The small bolt-on cramp should be three for Z432 , four for all the other RHD S30 series . Kats

Very good news, glad it's up and running correctly. Now, when it's all buttoned up, you need to monitor it to make sure it solved your original issue. Don't forget to replace that blue paint on the cover screw to maintain originality ...

I really love this kind of conversation, thanks!! I want to write a bit something about the cramps, when I come back home. I like to see the work of your Z432 , please post anything anytime here . I am learning new everyday and it is very interesting. Kats

Why would you want to? Run a ZX distributor.

To answer the question Cliff, yes, the carbs work fine on the N47 or P79. I used a round port header with a P79 manifold gasket. There was no issue at all with the injector notches. As to the original question, I've read that you can run the square port header on a round port head, but I've never tried it and I'd imagine that you'd lose a bit of low end power, but not a lot. I'm not sure which gasket to run when you do the square/round combo. I'd ceramic coat the header or sell it and buy a round port header already coated. I would only wrap the header if it's a race car that is always run hard. Florida is too humid IMHO for wrap. The header will rot quickly. I learned after a lot of trial and mostly error that the header coating/wrap will not prevent vapor lock. On my race car, I finally figured out that ditching the fuel rail and running rubber fuel lines to the carbs with no return was the best way to keep the fuel cool. The steel rail bolted to the head was a recipe for conductive heat right into the fuel.

So there are 3 control levers with 4 control cables. The top lever has two cables. One of the cables goes off to the right. It moves when moving the top lever between Off and Vent. The other cable goes off to the left and moves when moving the lever between Vent and Heat. The middle lever for the temperature control goes to the right and connects at the watercock at the heater core. The bottom lever goes over to the left and connects near the door that covers the footwell vent. It moves when you move the lever from Def to Heat. Here's a backside view of the control panel. Sorry I couldn't get a better photo. At least you can see a couple of the cables. Here is the fresh air (Off to Vent) connection. It's up near the firewall in back of the fan box and is probably obscured by the glove box. (I removed the glove box recently.) Here is the Vent to Heat actuator. It is on the drivers side above the hose that goes to the side vent. Here is the cable connection at the watercock. It is on the passenger side near where the heater hoses come through the fire wall. Finally, here is the cable connection for the Def to Heat lever. It is on the driver's side near the firewall where the door for the heated air vent is. Does this give you what you were looking for?

Stock PS30 battery cable routing should be very similar to stock S30 and S30-S battery cable routing for cars made during the same period. The two cable run from the battery, along the firewall at the same level, over the top of the bonnet/hood catch bracket, and then turn down towards the bellhousing and starter motor - with their last holding point on the firewall being the dedicated stand-off clamp which is quite similar to the Mater Vac hose bracket. Small bolt-on clamps hold the cables to the firewall. I think people started routing the cables through the catch bracket because it acted as an extra guide, and perhaps looked a little neater. Strictly speaking, it is not correct.

Looking at Z432 battery cable routing. Mine has clearly been monkeyed with, so I want to fix it. Based on some stills I can see from your car, Kats, it's different from what a standard S30 RHD is, in that your negative is routed along the top of the cowl (where the positive would be on an S30), and the positive is right below it, and going through the hood release latch mounting. Is this actually how they routed it? or perhaps I'm looking at older pictures of your car? (btw, that how the previous owner routed mine, but the number of zip ties used make me think that its probably not factory.)

Dat arse!

I took today off from work to recover from the ZCON trip, so I gave the 260Z a bath and used some C2 ceramic on it.