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The cold start injector only operates for a very short time when motor is first started. I doubt it is causing the idle issue when cold. You can test it by removing it and tape or plug the intake manifold where it mounts, put valve in a container & start motor. since you replaced it, it is not likely leaking fuel after startup. The reference to the brass connectors, I believe is a reference to the electrical connectors on the wiring harness & sensors.

I've driven the new mechanical regulator long enough, since popping loose the contact, that the spiking would have appeared. And, it has not. So, the spiking problem was likely the solid state replacement that was in there. It had evidence of problems (cracked base). Thanks again guys.

I also got my freshly painted front air dam and hood grills on.

Another big hurdle in my rear view mirror. Finally sorted out the heater box, with the rebuilt valves and aftermarket retrofitted heater core. This project set me back about 6 weeks with work, waiting or parts and general figment challenges. Special thanks to Captain Obvious who swooped in to help me cross the finish line. All the hoses were bought at Auto Zone. Walked in to the back with the heater box and valves attached and found hoses that worked. These hoses weren’t cheap. 2 were around $27 each. This project has held up the interior completion to include dash install. Check it out. If anyone does this core mod and needs the hose part numbers let me know. Happy to share those.

TJC1969, The knowledge here is amazing! Finding pictures or examples of these cups was very difficult. Once I had gotten all my answers from everyone here, I ended up cutting out a section and welding in a new section with a hole already pre-drilled. I then used the cups I found laying in my garage. The cups had to come off my first generation Camaro (1967-1969) or off my sons 67 Chevelle. They were almost perfect circumferance wise and just required the hole in the center to be drilled out to the proper size. I welded them in place and reassembled. The car has been on the road for a couple of years now. No problems whatsoever. Since the car is a daily driver for my son, I did not want to take a chance of one of those bars snapping, so we went with rubber on both sides. I hope this helps. I will look for more pictures to post. Camaro-guy

The ones you bought are the better in my opinion. The pin that rides on the float tang is closer to OE. A lot thicker and rounded off at the tip. The others are more like pins and more sensitive I imagine. Here's a bunch of reading and pictures on the different valves.

any time you have a cold running issue that goes away at warm up you need to check the water temp sensor resistance while the engine is cold AT THE 35 PIN CONNECTOR. read the fsm on what you should see. perhaps you have already done this.

Thanks for updating. It may help someone in the future with a similar problem.

I'm in town if anyone wants me to look at it. I'ld rather not.

Thanks Kats. I haven't got that issue (I will have to track it down now), but I have a small collection of DRIVER magazines from that period. The covers are always interesting and fun, and there was always an amazing amount of content in each issue. The journalists must have been working so hard. Nice balance of consumer-motorist (commuter), leisure motorist (trips, family, driving holidays) and sport motoring too. Their back-to-back group tests were very thorough. They always seemed to show 'back stage' and unusual shots in their motorsports coverage, which I love. 'Reportage' style:

When I tried to install the longer one, I actually had already rebuilt the front one with the shorter on (I hadn't noticed the difference yet). When I installed the long one in the back carb, I didn't want to adjust the float tab so far to accommodate the length. Tomorrow I'll pull the carbs and put the short one in the rear carb (by firewall) and the long one in the front carb. Looking at the pic attached, I now remember that the set came with two sets of needle valves. I installed the same size that was already in there. Is there a way to know which one to use? Thanks for the information. I bought the carb set from zcardepot, but on Ebay.

Post #2 shows them. They get corroded over time and loose their sensitivity. You can remove them and sand them down until shiny, steel wool works best.

I tested a second used AAR i bought of ebay which is also about 1/4-1/3 open etc. The car had same issue. Once it warms up the engine is more smooth on idle as well. Once it warmed up in 10 mins i took the AAR out and inspected and it was fully closed. After 15-30 mins at room temp it does opened up 1/4-1/3. Initially i thought the car was too rich due to AAR closed and hence the bypass. Now with the AAR as well it has same issues.

Distributor sale pending... Sold!

I will take the turbo dizzy! Pm'd

I've spent WAY too much time on Amazon studying generic door seals for the 240Z. I even tried some with mixed results. The first one I tried had a "bulb" of 3/8 of an inch (9.5mm). It left gaps, allowing wind noise. I took a chance and went big on the next try with a 0.7 inch bulb (17.8mm). The door would not close properly. Okay, so I figured the "mama bear" size would be about 0.5 inch (12.7mm). I got it today and installed it. It had a nice snug fit around the doorway. The door takes a fair amount of effort to close, but it will close completely. There are no gaps that I can find around the door, either. Here's a link to this door seal on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097MPM512 20220220_164404.mp4 Now to get more for the passenger side. By the way, you'll need about 11 feet of material to go all of the way around the door.

glad you got it going. The thing about mechanical stuff is you need to actually use it, long periods of inactivity are not good for moving parts.

Someone should take that dope's man card away.