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Got the Dash installed. It wasn’t as easy as some have mentioned. There are some tight spots and areas where you can get caught up. The key it to do it slowly and stop when you hit resistance. The drivers side was the hardest part. I actually think this might be a one and done but can’t say for sure yet. Everything seems to be working after a little glitch with the lights. The only light not working is the tach back light. The brake light is always on also, not sure it the switch is bad next to the E-Brake. Trying to move slowly and not crack any of the plastic parts that attach the dash.

Thanks, order underway with zspert. I for one appreciate those who take the time and money to reproduce parts no longer available! I’m sure it’s not get rich plan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure the relay is good. Make sure you have good grounds for the horns, that is no paint under the mounting point, since they ground to the chassis. Make sure the wiring up front isn't corroded. You should have seen how bad it was on my 240Z when I went to get her back on the road last summer. Make sure the grounding is good between the horn button and the steering column. (Added) Make sure the fuse is good.

Only have time to address one side of this many sided coin - reproduction parts for 240/260/280. Most every time I reproduce a part I first have to give a LOT of thought about how long will it take me to break even on my investment. If I have to invest many, many thousands - like in the case of my interior mirrors - how many years, not kidding here, will it take to reach scale given the TINY market I serve. It's always a decision reached after a lot of sweat has been expended. Have been working on and off on reproduction battery cables for a number of years. My investment will be HUGE. Will I live long enough to reach scale? Stay tuned. Interesting note - reproduction 240 parts sell at about a 25 to 1 ratio to reproduction 280 parts. Finally, Nissan doesn't discontinue parts out of meanness. They do it because the parts aren't selling. They couldn't justify continuing those neat under hood trouble lights because they didn't move enough of them even at about $30.00 each!! Try to find a new one now for under $250.00.

I tried a large razor blade too. Then I tried a wide Harbor Freight wood chisel. It worked as well as the razor blade but was much easier on my hand.

Found it! Resurrected Classics. Thanks Steve.

Here's a link for the SunFlag set: https://www.amazon.com/Sunflag-Screwdrivers-Made-Japan-Perfect/dp/B085KC6X57/ref=sr_1_2?crid=39IVQOXR4V736&keywords=sunflag%2Btools%2Bjapan&qid=1646415485&sprefix=sunflag%2Caps%2C106&sr=8-2&th=1

This is totally unrealistic. When pros go racing, their cars are NOT the street versions. This has been true since about the 1930s. What you see on any race track may look like a stock vehicle, but it has nothing in common with stock engine, suspension, bakes or rubber. In many cases it has little to do with the stock body or aerodynamics, either. OF COURSE what you see on the track doesn't tell you anything about a stock Z. Stock vehicles haven't been in professional racing for about 90 years. But it helps sales!

This discussion on JIS and not-so JIS from RTSTools.com: "There are the real JIS and the not-so-real JIS screwdrivers. Remember, JIS is a standard, so a screwdriver needs to be made to that exact standard to be considered authentically JIS. Most JIS advertised screwdrivers sold today by companies like Vessel, Hozan, and others are actually conforming to a new standard: DIN 5260 which is identical (at the tip) to the newer ISO 8764-1. But wait, DIN stands for Deutsches Institut für Normung e.V. (German Institute for Standardization), and ISO is the International Organization for Standardization. Neither sound very Japanese, do they? The reason these companies have changed to DIN 5260/ISO 8764-1 is because the new standard is designed to work in both Phillips and JIS screws. For the most part that is true, it does work on both screw types, but like anything meant to work with multiple things, the middle ground means compromise. The JIS standard screwdriver will always outperform a DIN/ISO screw driver in the worst of conditions on a JIS screw, and the same is true in reverse." A couple of years ago I picked up a set of screwdrivers made by SunFlag from Japan - genuine JIS and well worth the investment.

The Datsun runs once again! Still need to dial in my ignition timing, jetting, and fuel lines. But here is a sneak peak. I called Dave over at tuning4performance and had a nice chat about these mikunis. Ordered up a few sets of jets as I am running rich right now by the look of my plugs. A wideband O2 will be a nice addition in the future for fine tuning.

Yeap! metall against the header, why? Thats the part that is really going to be the hottest part so that's the way to go! 😉

Guys, guys... I think we all are sorta in agreement here. Any racing league has restrictions on what you can and cannot do. At the end of the day, the cars you see racing are removed from the car you'd buy at a dealership. Sure, some things are more far removed from reality than others - slapping the body of a car on a tube frame with an absolutely built engine, ridiculous suspension, no interior, and a sequential transmission is way different than a stock car. Everything that makes that racecar go is different, for sure, but the point is, they're trying to sell the car. I'm not gonna lie, I like a Ford Fiesta - not because it's fuel economy or something like that, but because they've made a long line of good rally cars. Doesn't mean I've bought a Fiesta, but, hey, if it came down to it, I'd buy a Fiesta over some other manufacturer's car because of Ford's legacy in rally. Same could be said of the GT500. Ya know what I mean?

Mike, don't let math enter into the argument. I have costed out the materials to make some parts, and I understand exactly what you mean.

A few differences I see between his Series 1 and my Series 2 - the earlier car's hatch prop bracket was blacked out (maybe mine was, too and I just missed it!) - the earlier car did not have blackout behind the interior plastic vent holes - the earlier car had the inboard portion of the front seat bracket blacked out, whereas mine and may others I've seen just blackout the outboard portion These were done by humans who get sloppy, so variations will exist. But the procedures also evolve as they learned more with each car. These differences are what make automotive archeology so much fun!

It definitely sounds like a vacuum leak. I'm troubleshooting very similar symptoms, but mine appears to be the carb shafts. Someone should be able to chime in, but I would guess you could eliminate the brake booster by plugging the booster hose to see if the problem goes away.

That's my story too. I had a Ruf 911 slot car body on a Whisper Jet frame. 20 years later I bought a '82 911SC. Kept it 10 years or so then got my brain back and bought my high school car, #305 280Z. Best decision ever, eh one of the top 10.

Thanks. It is similar to my favorite toy from my childhood - a Remote Control car I had when I was 12: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j8jiEC7IjXTNtWj_4ekyiU77dE3rFqWe/view?usp=sharing

Ask and ye shall receive - from my teardown pics.

I’ve met people that just don’t look at reference diagrams for part numbers, they are out there. Like given them a link to the parts diagram, expressed that the parts can be had for cheaper. But they don’t do it. Maybe it’s a convenience thing. I guess it’s easier to just click and order from one site.

Does it do it if you are parked and press the brakes? My suspicion would be blown brake booster,