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In the thread of viczcar.com , Alan said what I have been thinking about. “All the genuine ones I've seen (spotted the odd 'oh dear me...' too) have 'H - H' under the glovebox, including both of my own 240ZGs. Obviously the first H refers to L24-engined variant, and the second H refers exclusively to ZGs. However, why would a ZG require a different dash notation than an 'HS30-D' coded Fairlady 240Z-L model which might have been right behind it on the production line? As both were Japanese 'Deluxe' content models made at the same time, they would have had IDENTICAL dash instrumentation and controls. Only possible difference would be factory aircon, which was an extra cost showroom ordering option. So the glovebox notations don't seem - as far as I can see - to have been a part of the *dash* build process...” Then I looked up Nissan text books for the workers ( or for the students of Nissan auto mobile college ) , there is a picture of how-to make cars at production line . I try to picture of how the glove box markings was used , now I tend to think it was used for various situations rather than only for assembling the dash itself. Workers can see it easily on the line when a passenger door was not installed yet . And when at the marriage with power train section , or at the installation of front bumper with specific indicators , or riveting over fenders for ZG , workers just open the passenger door and have a confidence before doing it . And the uploading on / unloading from the ship yes I think it was useful ! Kats

Thanks Gavin, the thread on viczcar.com is exactly what I have been looking for ! A lot of examples make me feel happy. PNG , Papua New Guinea! I have never thought about it before. Just wonderful. Also , it is for the first time to see markings on a radio , is it a reference for not to mistake which dashboard should install correct radio ? I attached a picture of a glove box markings which is showed in a Nissan factory book “ S30 supplementally chassis manual “ . We see トルコン ( To ru con - torque converter) there !

Hi Roo , yes I noticed it on the magazine picture too, that hand brake lever is a special feature of the works LHD rally car . Rauno August Aaltonen, he liked to use the hand barke lever as a second steering wheel, the team manager Mr. Namba said “ he showed us gripping his hand brake lever and proudly said “ this is My technique “ , he was too fast , the brake linings worn out fast and burned at around 1000 km “ Alan , could you tell us more about this special hand brake lever with your “special “ one ? Kats

The shiny links will be on the same dot or number corresponding with the cam spocket and crank. Don't forget your oil slinger when you go to putting it back together.

………TDC Compression stroke.

Interesting positioning for the handbrake on the driver side of the tunnel. So it is possible to switch it over in the 240Z.

This is another example, we see “ 2,4 L(cursive) DX “ on it . I imagined when workers saw this chalk markings, they would have had been reminded that cars needed black wiper blades, scallop style wheel caps, horizontal bar type front grille . However , don’t need over fenders, G -nose , gun metallic rear bumper with full rubber guards. 6.45 -14 applied, 175 HR14 is for 240ZG only. Oh , after October 1971 Fairlady 240ZG/240Z-L/ Z-432 and Fairlady Z-L were equipped with an auto seeking radio coupled with an 8 track stereo. Fairlady 240Z and Fairlady Z were equipped with a manual tuning radio ( not a stereo) and manual extension antenna. Fairlady Z S30S (simple? ,basic ?) Fairlady Z-L S30 ( Luxury ) Fairlady 240Z HS30S (simple ? basic ?) Fairlady 240-L HS30 (Luxury) Fairlady 240ZG HS30H (High speed ?G-nose) Fairlady Z-432 PS30 ( Prince? S20 engined) Fairlady Z-432R PS30SB ( Special Bersion / typical Japanese phonetic ) And more variations for regular gasoline/ air conditioner/ automatic transmission. Nissan used different coding in a parts catalog and for workers at assembly line . Please see attached picture. DX comes from “Z-dx “ , which is used for S30 / HS30 / PS30 . The glove box came from a Fairlady 240Z-L . So , “2.4 L DX “ is a short and simple identification but very much telling deep specific configuration . Very complicated for us ,maybe for workers too… Kats

Door hinge differences: early type on the right and later type (most common) on the left. Rebuild kits for both types are available.

Yes the PNG markings were good. I actually met someone not far from me with a red 240z imported from PNG and I forgot to look under the dash on his car. Next time I see it I will. The radio marking was a first for me also. Most of them have long since faded or been covered in dust. Now I look everywhere for markings on factory parts.

Yes, that is normal. It is a return line, not a fuel vapor line. The vapor line is routed differently and ends down below the ballast resistor/coil area. As @siteunseenwas saying, when the floats rise in the float bowls, they cut off fuel from going into the float bowls. Since this is a low pressure system that is not dead-headed, the fuel must go somewhere. The block on the right end of the fuel rail is where you go from supply to return.

I can't imagine they'd be cheaper than $33 (or still even $44 if I send in my cores).

"Excuse me!"

I'll try tweaking the heat shield a bit and report back. Regarding the return springs, I have them rigged with a piece of wire to put tension on them. It would definitely make my life easier if I can get the heat shield corrected.

Good move Site.......they will now match the patina of the car.......besides, masking and painting requires patience and work......eats into beer drinking time. 🍻

Push in and turn counterclockwise 1/4 turn after the natural rotation stops. Reverse to install. Looks like this.....

just an update on the Z432 Airbox, and my suspicions that it was suffocating the engine at high RPM - I have been driving the car for a few days with the airbox filter connected and dis-connected (by removing the tube between them), and the performance increase for the disconnected setup is profoundly noticeable. There is more research to be done re: filters and jetting, but I was actually quite surprised how much better the car performed above 5000RPM without the air filter connected. The filter is fairly new, so I may try something else in it's place next.

Put it on TDC before you touch anything.

Put a zip-tie around the new tensior to keep it together while you get the chain on. I could only find a ZX kit when I built my 2.4. Worked great but it has different hole spots on the guides. I used the inner holes and got the chain really snug. From what I read you shouldn't be able to see any of the metal on the tensioner when it's all together. Get a new oil pump while you're at it.