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I recently started watching a TV show called "Engine Masters" and I really enjoy it. Granted... Most of their work and findings are primarily applicable to WOT drag racing kinda stuff, but I really like when they get into theory and concepts. I also like the friendly banter back and forth between the three guys on the show. Could easily be me and two buddies. I've got the DVR set up to pick it up. If you've got time to relax and want something "light", I recommend it.

I think that it already has a draw-through turbo. Don't know much about it but I found an old thread showing a similar setup on an L4. Edit - it's in @Racer X 's neighborhood. He probably knows about those old turbo kits too. https://ratsun.net/topic/57895-datsun-510-l20-looking-for-turbo-kit-for-it/

Some time this year, I want to replace the struts and springs on the 240Z. I have the struts, but I need to decide whether to use the Chevette springs I have on hand or go with the ZCarSource springs. Anyway, I have used the tongue & groove pliers (aka Channel Locks) on the 260Z gland nuts in the past, and I noticed that ZCarDepot came out with a gland nut wrench. However, me being me, I wanted to see what else I could find. I tried to find an octagonal socket, but no one seems to have a 2 inch octagonal socket. They are either much too large or much too small. Then I was doing some other tool searching and came across a 2" crow's foot. It was only about $20, so I pulled the trigger. The crow's foot looks like it could work. It certainly goes around the gland nut.

I really like watching these guys videos into motor builds... Something I can relate to, a guy in a cold garage talking to himself. https://www.youtube.com/user/Jafromobile/videos

I noticed on my engines that #1 seems to run lean, the plugs are always whiter than the others. I think it has to do with air flow, #1 must get more air. So if your system is tuned to the edge of lean, #1 might be too lean to fire at idle. Just a guess. You could adjust the idle air screw to richen things up. Screwing it in will divert more air past the vane, adding fuel. You could also pop the black cover and move the counterweight. The dead cylinder might be only happening at idle. That might explain why the plug porcelain is dark, indicating combustion at some time. A dead cylinder with a new plug should be "like-new" white.

Based on that and: Disconnected both #1 and #2 injectors while car was running. RPM dropped Swapped #2 injector plug to #1 injector. No change in rpm. It seems like a fuel issue first. I know its a pain, but maybe swap injector #2 with #1 to see if the issue follows? This can rule out the injector itself. Also, check continuity between injector #1 and your ECM, Pin 15. See Pg. 64: https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Good thought there Cliff. Wouldn’t that be an easy fix after what @ckurtz2went through the diagnostics on this one. Inexpensive as well!!

Could need a new distributor cap and rotor button? Good luck.

Over 20 years ago a friend used some waterbased paint on a oldtimer.. then he did not want to drive it because the paint chipped easy due to little stones i guess.. the paint was very soft.. i don't know what the waterbased paint is these days but the colormatching should be no problem. I think the oilbased (what i used on my 280zx) is still the best way to go on the oldtimers. New cars are all waterbased paint i think? (Maybe that's why they are all like oranges!!) Paintwork these "robopainterdays" i find completely S .#%&^$#%^$$. H .^&%#$%^$$. I .&%##%^% T !!!

I think if you've tried swapping injectors and leads from other cylinders onto #1 and it doesn't make a difference, then it must be something about the route into the cylinder - either the valves aren't opening properly or there's something in the way - gasket maybe?

I dedicate this song to siteunseen . Kats

It's got a cop motor. A 440 cubic inch plant. It's got cop tires. Cop suspension. Cop shocks.

I don't know how active you are Brian as a amin here, maybe you could discuss a future spam strategy with Mike to minimize the havoc it caused on the site recently. just a thought..

Don't ignore Bel-Metric. They actually have JIS sized M8 nuts and bolts.

Didn't mean to dig up an old thread but I want to share this with anyone who is curious if their ecu will work. I just picked up a A11-000-000 ecu which according to the sheet is a 1975 automatic California ecu. I placed it into a 1977 manual California ecu car with model A11-601-000. Car started fine and had no problems. Even though the ecu is 1975 and an automatic, it started and revved to 3k no problem. Haven't driven it yet but I can make an update if needed

The Cruiser?

Thanks xs10shl, this is a great work and I am sure this log will be a nice instruction guide for everyone who need to install the system into a Z432 , probably for GTRs ( PGC10/KPGC10/KPGC110) too . Ignition management is a key of those cars , no more new parts from Nissan today , and there is no singles part which is interchangeable with a stock L-series engine system. Even if someone has a complete , perfect S20 but without working ignition system ,it will be sad for the car and for the owner . Or like this , I am a bit fool for S20 even if it doesn’t sit on a car . Just looking at the machine, I can spend whole day of my life . Except Alan ,I don’t think we can explain about this engine. This is probably a pinnacle of existing, working of all the S20. I will report when this engine starts fire up in a car . Kats