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Orange you gonna tell us?

The red Z will be at Caffeine and Octane in Atlanta tomorrow. Even the wife is willing to get up early to see it.

So they had the red and the grey Zs at Caffeine and Octane this morning. It was great to see them in person and sit in them. The wife wasn't thrilled with the seats, but I thought they should be a great incentive to me to lose some more weight. I found the ergonomics of the driver's position to be excellent. If you have a 370Z, you won't be surprised by much of anything on the interior. That's not a bad thing to me. I think the cars look very nice in person. I don't have a problem with the large mouth on the car, but I wouldn't mind if they put a vestigial bumper on it to break it up. My thought is that we can expect to see that on a refresh in the future. The Nissan people there want feedback. I was telling one of the product planning guys the color I was hoping to see for a Z. He hinted that if I'm patient, I will be rewarded. That's perfect because I'm not in a rush to join the current new car buying frenzy. If you want a gasoline powered Z, this may be the last model you can buy.

They are original to the car. I do not want to restore them….only original once. Keith

Thanks for the advice on the steel wool Patcon! Freez74, scrubbed with toothbrush and simple green, then used Macs Brightener... came out great!! thanks! MUST use outside or VERY well ventilated space.

Decided to NOT use any RTV and things look very good without it. I read a lot of threads where people broke bolt heads and some just over tightening the screw in aluminum and damaging the threads, decided to just hand tight and keep it checked. Thats the safest way i think.

At a recent meeting at my house, my body man/painter had a look over the car in it's dismantled state. He also saw some of the paint removal I had done and gave me the good ahead on using this method if I wanted to continue. When he gets the car he will be marking areas that will have paint removal done by his media blasting guy. The areas to be media blasted will only be those that are not subject to distortion from the blasting process. Then he will use manual methods to remove the remaining paint. He is very experienced in and only does quality restoration work, and has done many high level restorations for various collectors in my area that have much deeper pockets than me. As always I appreciate your thoughtful questions and comments, please keep them coming. Lol

Making progress! So we know at least there is an issue electrically. On the page 64 of the EFI bible, you can see that if the test failed, which it did, that you can do a few tests next using the FSM. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html here’s a list of all the years and their FSM, start from the first recommendation on EF-42 then go down the list. Possible your dropping resistor or relay is bad Edit: @Zed Headbeat me to it! 😂

You're making good progress. You probably have a bad connection somewhere in the wiring harness. The most likely spot is at the dropping resistors, which are underneath and behind the washer fluid jug. Some screws hold them in. I would go there and take a look. That's where the power passes. You can check voltage in to the resistors at the plug too. Several injectors are fed through each resistor, so check each wire carefully. Edit, actually voltage in to the resistor would affect several injectors. Focus on voltage out.

I was asked to keep it quiet, but it is a classic Z color.

Cliff's method works. Another is the bolt pattern. Nissan did not drill theirs for both. 225 is 6 evenly spaced bolt holes, 240 is 3 sets of 3. 225 240

Gotta love it when people change the cars color and do it only half way. The good news is it will be easier to repaint back to red. Although still expensive. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334381826608

I too agree with ZH and an air leak at an injector o ring. I suggest you seal up the intake at the entrance to the AFM and smoke it out using the brake vacuum port. You dont even need an expensive smoke machine, just a cheap cigar and puff the smoke in. Look for the smoke. I found I had missed an o ring this way. I can not recall the problems I was having with the car at the time, or if they were the same as you are currently having. But it was def a running issue.

You can take the boy out of the South, but you can’t take the South out of the boy.

My Datsun buddy had come by to drop off the Jeep CAS he had modified for me at the body shop. (We did three of these so two are for sale)

January 1970 production car jack and chocks: Keith

What do you guys think of my wheel choice, 255/45R20. Lol

I believe the second is the mystery part Ferg has been referring to on the right rear suspension

As long as it isn't from a 2+2

The 1971 240SX. Kind of early for it... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_240SX Those cars are pretty far out there. Probably nice and dry. https://goo.gl/maps/FY845t1sCBXpqpXT7

The Cruiser?

There is a pretty rare vehicle in that collection.

I think that it already has a draw-through turbo. Don't know much about it but I found an old thread showing a similar setup on an L4. Edit - it's in @Racer X 's neighborhood. He probably knows about those old turbo kits too. https://ratsun.net/topic/57895-datsun-510-l20-looking-for-turbo-kit-for-it/

The entire car appears to be held together by blue paint. Unless it has four wheel steering, that left rear wheel as seen in the original ad might indicate a problem. No cracks in the dash cover. Check that, there is no dash cover. As a "parts car", what might it be worth?

The purple filter cover is a nice touch.

I looked back through my contacts and I always put "240Z" anytime I save their info. Nothing came up but I remember he owned a pain clinic and was ex-millitary so it was a Veteran's Administration affiliated clinic. He bought it then your city flooded and we did the swap about a month later. I asked him to join classiczcars.com but don't know if he's here or not? He always called me before the Alabama vs LSU games but that stopped a couple of years ago. I'm sorry I can't direct you to him, super nice fellow. We met in Tuscaloosa, halfway, we switched the U-haul trailer over to his truck without ever cranking the car. Must be my honest charm?

Shhhh…keep talkin like that they won’t stop coming down here. Housing prices are crazy already and rude drivers aren’t welcome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Once you get "down South" you do not leave. 😎

Yes it does! I sold that one to a good guy in Baton Rouge, LA. Ours has white interior though.

I have a PW list on my phone, but everything is in shorthand. I have various combinations of PW's for different sites depending on the type of site and requirements. My list tells me enough to know it, but not enough for anybody else to figure it out. As for the scammers, I've seen some good automated safeguards on other forums. Some force the first post to be in the introduction forum and then also block posts in certain sub-forums until a specified timeframe and/or post count is reached. For example, classifieds cannot be posted or replied to for 30 days after the intro post. @mike is there any way to automatically block a second post until the member receives a certain number of likes on the intro post? We as members could take the pressure off of you if this is possible. There are enough old timers that could weed out the real members from the bots. We could "like" the real posts. Once they reach five likes, they are approved to post again. It should take less than 30 minutes to reach five likes and it would be spelled out upon joining. The new members could also not give likes until they are approved to keep the bots from liking their own posts from different accounts. This would put the burden on us to police the scammers and bots. Another idea would be to give contributing members the authority to hide posts. There are enough paying members to keep the bot posts off the board. You could then delete and ban when you have time.

It's a easy thing to do . The black for he spokes that I use is satin black. I would sand down the metal part of he wheel with 400 wet dry paper. On the plastic "wood" portion , use a 3M scratchey pad like for cleaning pots and pans . Just moderately scrub the plastic part with it and I use Joy or any liquid dish washing detergent . This will remove the left over finish and the grease from your hands. Dry every thing off with fresh clean cloth. Mask off the spokes and spray clear on it. there are several options of clear finishes . Laquer drys the quickest but is not as durable , Spar varnish would be the most durable . After completely dry , mask off the clear and shoot the black . The one I have on my Z presently is finished with lacquer and it still looks good after 3 yrs. There is no need to stain or color the plastic . After you clean the wheel with the detrgent it will be vary dull , but when you apply the finish you will be pleased . Gary