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Decades ago when my dash started to crack, I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack. I was an aircraft maintenance officer in the Air Force at the time and knew that procedure worked well on C-130s when sheet metal cracked. So, I gave it a try. The dash is still in my Z. The crack eventually got bigger over the years. But, the "stop drill" procedure worked for years. Good luck with whatever you decide to do to save the dash. They all have a "Best By" date.

So I'm getting back into Z work after taking a winter break to work on some house projects (pantry, painting, etc). Discovered one of the rear brake lines was clogged, so I bought some tools and fabricated new ones: Came out pretty well, I think. The left rear still only bleeds in fits and starts, so if the braking performance still isn't there after a good bleed, I'll probably get the later S30 brake cylinder retrofit kit so I KNOW they're working. Got the door cards back on this past weekend: The pics don't show it, but they're actually pretty trashed, being 50 years old and made of glorified cardboard. All new vapor barriers (I used the 3M sticky strips), clips and rubber receivers. Little bumpers for the door release handles on order. I'll need to re-chrome the piping as well. * * * * * * So I actually got the car out on the road for the first time since the restoration began. I drove about 10 minutes down the road to the local O'Reilly's to pick up some fuel stabilizer, and stopped at the gas station on the way home. Some impressions: The car is pretty loud with the stock exhaust manifold and MSA exhaust (no resonator, just the muffler). A little too loud, if I'm honest, but it does sound pretty good passing up through 3K rpm. The car still needs a good tune. Colortune on the way, and I'll need some advice about how to time it. I have a points delete kit ready to install in the distributor. It attracts a LOT of attention, and I feel REALLY self-conscious driving it (I'm not a high-profile guy). It's really strange---I've never owned a car that stood out this much---and is going to take some getting used to. One more exterior pic for good measure:

That is the main Ground (Earth) connection for the entire electrical harness - actually harnesses. There should be a Ground wire from the battery to the firewall that connects the battery Ground to the frame (unibody).

Or... To attach the snowplow blade. 😁

Most likely to enable the Z to be towed behind an RV or Motor Home..

Reporting back here. Winter got caught up in some home improvement projects (our pantry looks fantastic now), but I'm back on the Z kick. All the tools and supplies came: And I practiced a bit before attempting to fabricate lines for the car: I think they came out OK: All new rubber lines as well, no leaks and we're back in business. Still might buy the later S30 conversion kit, though, since early Z brake cylinders are NLA.

Here's a handy little web page that claims to have listed all the known non-ethanol fuel selling stations in Canada and the U.S.A. https://www.pure-gas.org/

Looks like the needle bearing was the cause of yhe hub failure. Not much help now, but intrresting to know what caused the hub to fail. Why the needle roller cage failed? Could have been a assemble fault. The rest of the transmission looks to good to be normal wear and tear on the needle bearing. Maybe someone tapped the input shaft in with a hammer. I am with John @Av8ferg on this one. Now is the time to look for another transmission.

I would also highly recommend you start using only Meguiar's Hyper Dressing on your vinyl, rubber and plastic parts.

Yea, those look like tow bar brackets. Nice car, but I would cringe at making the restoration budget work.

ZXTurbo/ 2+2 is the 240mm clutch I believe.

Uh no, you're not. You're running an internally oiled cam. The spray bar is there but right now it's just acting as a block-off for the two oil ports that feed it.

I am repeatedly amazed how many people will share a personal story with me about their experience with a Z. Either they had one or a friend did. And the stories are pretty similar - fast, fun, and way cool.

Original sending unit is what you require. From 1978 on the sender has two prongs and not the single stud which is what you need.