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Finally got the car on the road today. Put about 20 miles on it and it ran flawlessly. Suspension is smooth, I have a small knock on the right rear in need to investigate when I’m bumps but it’s bad. Otherwise it’s running great. I need to attack my electrical gremlins next . Ride height with the Eibachs and Koni’s is perfect in my opinion. Here are some pics from today.

I have the AMCO front and rear bars which I bought used, years ago. At one time, I was thinking of mounting them, but they will go separately with 27th if and when I sell her. I actually have a bunch of AMCO stuff. Attached ad for the Z. I'm also attaching the 1972 Datsun options brochure for comparison. The interior luggage bar is going in 26th. My thoughts about the bumper bars are like those of front spoilers; just another thing out there to get bent. The AMCO bars really don't protect anything and will damage the bumper itself when it gets hit. They DO look great, though, that 'touring luxury' sort of look. Every installation of the front bar that I have seen is over the rubber strip with chromed, slotted cap screws with a nut and washer inside. I guess, that if you use the hole in the upright for the top flange bar mount, you would have to take the screw out of the rubber strip. You're going to have to drill the upright for the lower flange anyhow. Last, but not least, I have a proper hood that I would sell if you're interested.

Those are great. Mine look slightly different but have taps for my heavy audio requirements. I found these plain jane red and black covers on Amazon that fit the terminals well.

What I would do is drive the car. Maybe it is just me, but the functionality of the AAR would in no way ever prevent me from driving a 280z, especially at this time of year temps. If you remove and bypass it, the car will idle low for 3 or 4 minutes until it gets some heat in it. Do you actually drive the car in the dead of winter in Pennsylvania, or is it primarily a nice weather garage queen car? In very cold weather, yes, you would have to keep your foot on the accelerator pedal for a few minutes to prevent the motor from stalling. I understand trying to keep the car factory correct with all of its original parts functional, but the AAR would not be a deal breaker for me. Just my opinion, your car, your choices....

I only saw one and it's Bart's blue 240z , @bartsscooterservice and he has it directly steel on steel iirc. Maybe he can give you a pic of it.. 😉

...I have the Z Car Source 2022 calendar on my wall, and the more I stare at Tyler Sprigg's orange 280Z 2+2 (the featured car for the month of May), the more I dig the look. He did a great job with it. The photo above isn't the one from the calendar; the calendar one is a rear 3/4 shot that really emphasizes the "hatchback-iness" of the roofline profile change. It looks really cool from either angle, but especially the back.

View Advert 280Z AAR Auxilery Air Regulator Valve Used but in working order. It opens when cold as shown in the first picture, then after 12 volts is applied it warms up and closes as seen in the second picture. Body is clean, plug is intact, no cracks. I think this works for the ZX as well. Check you fitment. UNISIN JECS Made in Japan A32-600000 8908A stamped on the unit. Shipping is extra. PayPal accepted. Advertiser Terrapin Z Date 05/10/2022 Price $75 Category Parts for Sale

Nice wire organization. 👍

And if you're going to buy a new aar you should reroute your pcv hoses to the '78s. It was rerouted to keep the oily funk out of the aar. This is a pic I grabbed real quick but you may want to do some better research. You can Google"78 pcv hose update classiczcars.com"

Cold = open Hooked to 12V = closed

I have 5 of these. Do you still need one? If you live in a warm climate these aren’t really needed, just make the car run richer until it gets to operational temps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After letting my '75 Z collect dust in my garage for much of the past year, I took it to a local specialist for new brakes & suspension work. I'm finally heading into the checkbook mechanic camp. ☺️

I send him some info. Cool never knew it was Amco lol

Thanks to 26th-Z and dutchzcarguy for the install information; it's very helpful. I have copies of the AMCO catalog but the photo wasn't clear enough to see how the bar was attached. I think I'll stick with the "78 hood as it's been on the car since '78, and I the vents may help a little with keeping the engine cool. BTW, I'm the original owner of the car and I have every piece of paper relating to the car, except the AMCO instructions. It figures.

Thanks Alan! Your input reminds me this , a new engine block from a Nissan parts department , only shows “ S20” on the rear end of the top surface. Kats

Hi Gavin, that is a point , what I am thinking to do for my 2146 is , just giving back to life again . Not trying to show in a concourse , just enjoy for my own . Some new parts and old parts are mixed up in a engine bay , it must be weird looking! Kats

The meter or light would be used on the connection at the end of the harness. With the engine running. You can connect 12 volts (maybe even just 9, not sure) to the two pins on the AAR and wait and see if it closes. It doesn't have to close all the way. The amount that it moves will determine how much idle speed change you get.

I had the same issue and discovered it was the wheels. Both sets I had, had their lug nut holes wallowed out a bit and were somewhat ovular. So even though the lug nuts were on there tight, the wheel could still move a millimeter or so in the lug nut hole creating the steering wheel vibration. I did the same as you in replacing basically the whole front of the car and having the tires balanced multiple times until I tried other wheels.

Some used options.....

I'm thinking it may be a wiring connection problem too along with Zed Head. You have new parts without the fix you're after. Some people delete those things and stay on the gas pedal until it warms up. Mine had a problem where the electrical connection would twist and pull out of the aluminum body of the AAR. I've never understood dropping electrical windings in water, maybe shoot it with a heat gun or hairdryer to see if the plates move. https://www.google.com/search?q=aar+delete+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=r4d5YsfZHqmfqtsPlrmFkAI&oq=aar+delete+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARDRAzoICC4QsQMQgwE6CwgAEIAEELEDEIMBOgUIABCABDoOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQowI6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOgsILhCABBDHARCjAjoFCC4QgAQ6CAguEIAEELEDOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARCjAjoOCC4QgAQQsQMQgwEQ1AI6CAgAEIAEEMkDOgUIABCSAzoICAAQgAQQsQM6CwguEIAEEMcBEK8BOgcIABCABBAKOgYIABAWEB46BQgAEIYDUJEMWI1VYPxhaAFwAHgBgAHMAYgB-hGSAQYwLjE0LjGYAQCgAQGwAQA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#cobssid=s&sbfbu=1&pi=aar delete classiczcars.com

I guess I'm saying once the pump is installed and timed correctly at TDC the tang should be in the position on that pic. There's a fat side and a small side you need to keep in mind. Once the pump is timed correctly your distributor should fit in place with the rotor button on #1 that lines up with the raised line on the outside of the cap just above the front clip.

That's why I'm not married. I would have to have more than one.

I've seen some different ways of putting it on a 240z, the best way.... Is to take off those weights called overriders, and put them on the garage wall and stick that front bar to them.. that way your 240z looks much better and weighs a lot less and... is FASTER! (I'm just kidding.. you make your car look like you want.. for me.. all that junk on the bumpers is only weight to carry around and it surves nothing.. sorry!! )