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Ah...Here you go. 17251-E4101 is the original filler cap superseded without date by 17251-E4102 (with chain). The filler neck 17212-E4101 changed to E4102 with it, but again, no date listed in the parts book. The rubber flap, 78818-E4100 is the only listing. My cars have the flap. I still have a brand new one that I bought in 2013. It is labeled E4100.

Hi, my 01/70 Z432 has a non - chain cap. 03/70 240Z has a chain . Kats

HLS30-00026 and 27 - no chain.

(I think the reason Dave asked is that) sometimes the shift knob can amplify vibrations and make a buzzy noise. You can check if it's part of the problem by simply unscrewing it and seeing what (if anything) happens to the noise.

Hey 87mj! I only live about 4 miles from Gas City speedway. Update: Saturday I checked float level and set them a 9/16. Pulled both carbs to verify the throttle blades were closing all the way. Reinstalled both carbs but left off all the linkage including choke cables. Fired it up and had to actually turn the idle screws to get it to idle at 800 rpm. Reinstalled all the linkage and still have good idle so evidently it was linkage related but I can’t see anything different. Time to start putting some miles on it!

While reviewing @zed2's thread on unchained vs. chained gas caps I spotted @26th-Z's comment about undated supercedes on that item. I recalled seeing a similar catalog notation on door lock assemblies while recently doing research for a friend. Today I was cleaning up some door lock assemblies and spotted a unicorn the probably confirms the timing of this particular supercede (80501-E4100, undated supercede 80503-E4100). The lock on the left is a left side unit, date coded 9 - 7, it has two clock-style coil springs, Note the position of the long arm is down on the smaller spring. The unit on the right is also a left side unit, date coded 9 - 11. It has only one clock-style spring with a different shape and positioning. The other major change is the elimination of the clock-style spring for the primary latch in favor of a tubular coil spring. This type spring is on all later dated units I have. Differences in the pin stamps can be seen in the second pic. Another difference I spotted: internal bumpers for the various levers were clear plastic on the early unit, black plastic or rubber on the later units. Unfortunately I have only the one 9 - 7 unit, no matching right side.

The starter solenoid power wire does not pass through the ignition relay. You bypassed the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay. The cranking circuit is completely separate from the ignition circuit. You have a cranking problem, not an ignition problem.

Spray bar or self oiling cam? Odd circumstances. If DSI did the head I can only think it's a leak. Metal expands when it gets hotter, right? Head scratcher!

I stuck a screwdriver on the valve cover and listened to the rocker arms from the front to the back. The noise is quite a bit more pronounced when listening with my ear at the end of the screwdriver. Which I imagine is to be expected. I guess I'm not entirely clear on how much louder it's supposed to be when doing that. I've tried to watch all the videos I can find on you tube of these engines running. Some sound like this, some louder, and some quieter. Some stock, some built, some with the text in Japanese that i don't understand haha. If I put the end of the screwdriver on the exhaust runners of the header it isn't all that much louder.

Is the small wire on the solenoid on good and tight? Simple minded me thinks it's the starter. But the smarter guys know about all the safety switches and all that crap. Is it the original starter as far as you know, I guess it would be a Hitachi? or reman? I've bought some junk alternators and starters from Advance, sold as good but noooooo.

Sounds too fast to be an exhaust leak, it kinda keeps up with the valve train??? Have you tried the hose listening trick yet, poor mans stethoscope?

Is the 240/260 lens the same as the 280 lens? thats my question.. if yes i might have one.. but can't promise but i think i've seen a lose one in my "pile" 😉 and they are overhere not so crusty hihi... (due to climate.)

vin#5305 6/70 has a chain. It looks just like the one on the left in your photo.

I'm curious. Have you tried to start the car with it in neutral? Recently a friend with a black/gold 10AE said his starter gave out. I told him that before he orders a starter, he should verify he had voltage at the solenoid. He measured and said he had no voltage there. I went to his house with a remote starter. I verified his reading and used the remote starter to start his car. After consulting the wiring diagram, I traced it back to an ignition relay and verified the coil was not getting power. That led me to suspect the inhibit switch on the transmission. I told him to put the car in neutral and try starting. It started right up. I don't recall seeing anything in this thread about trying to start in neutral. Try it and report back.

I am still seeking guidance on Model Year or Production Timeframe the chain feature was added to the early style cap. Thanks, Keith

I used Rivnuts to attach my flares. The curvature of the flare brings the top edge of the fire snug with the fender. There are a couple places where I could insert s sheet of paper snuggly between flare and fender, but I believe that is more due to irregularities in the flare or the fender. A solution to eliminate even the smallest gap is to run a section of vintage VW Bug fender welting between flare and fender. I had initially planned to do that, but was pleased with how closely the flare fit to the body without it. The welting is wide and you would need to cut triangular shaped pieces out of the lower part to facility bending/curving and leaving a gap for the attaching screw that goes into the Rivnut. Here's a link: https://www.jbugs.com/product/6730.html?utm_content=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6KUBhC3ARIsACIwxBiqriBdDnm73bShSLTwe7wbl9b8efluH6ub93oOYRCG-rVc4Rjo2tAaAmZ9EALw_wcB

I guess you'll find out how much is true and how much is stuff I made up. 😁

I posted this for a minute then deleted it because it's a work around fix that won't give you answer but will get you home so take it as an emergency fix. It scare the crap out of me when I do it but I have a long screwdriver that has so many arch burns on it I could use it to sharpen a chainsaw. 😁 You can turn the key to ON and jump the solenoid by making contact with the 2 threaded bolts with a screwdriver. It'll spark and scare the hell out of you but I've done it many times. Kind of of an emergency fix but it eliminates bad starters/ solenoids too. Leave the small wire on, thats the ignition switch wire. Like I said it's gonna arch but it bypasses the solenoid and if it cranks you have a bad starter. Please be careful with the 12V. Don't hit anything else and make sure it's in PARK.

That is interesting they won't even let you look at the ad's Mart, @dutchzcarguy Here are a few pic's of the ZX looks like the V8 was too much power for the driver. Old school V8 with a manual transmission.

For comparison I pulled out the early under and behind seat jute and carpet from my 7/70 #6521 out of my crawl space. Here are few pictures, on each side there are two jute pieces and one carpet piece that goes part way under the seat and up to the plastic toolbox covers. The rear jute pieces go into the toolbox area. Looks like when the toolboxes were moved to the rear deck the jute and carpet changed, 1/71 I think. @zed2A while back you messaged me about these jute pieces, now that I was able to get access to them is there any info you were still looking for?

For 1970 and I think 71 cars with plastic tool box covers, the carpet that is behind the seats only partially covers the jute under the seats. These are the only pictures I have of mine before starting the resto on my 7/70. There are some pictures that might be of interest in this discussion,

I don't agree with the 'Mercedes engine' (MB design - licensed to Prince - inherited by Nissan after merger with Prince) thing with regard to the L6. We've taken that apart on this forum in the past:

HLS30-28726 would be a 4/71 manufacture date. You'll want to check Carl Beck's site Zhome.com for particular dates / serial numbers of changes. Sounds like you have the correct ash tray and lighter arrangement on the console and the hole in the dash is just bare. Pull handles on both sides is fine as would be just the passenger door. Jute and carpet under the seats / tool covers.

In a nut shell, the early cars had the fuse box / ashtray / lighter all in front of the shifter in the console. These cars had a flip hazard switch in the dash and another hole but it was dash material closed and had no function. This went to some point in later 1971. When the B transmission came out the ash tray was moved to behind the shifter and the dash then got the lighter as well as the flip flasher switch. In 73 there was a change in the flasher switch style. I think all the jute was covered with carpet, but not 100% sure.

I forgot to mention an important point: The engine only sounds like that as it starts to warm up and at operating temperature. When it's cold it does not make that noise. It's otherwise quiet.