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happy 4th of july to my fellow americans. drive safe.

Happy 4th of July guys!! Proud to be an American, even if things are tough right now. Have a safe celebration today!!

Undo parts of the linkage to see if you can identify where the sticky part is happening.

Your original carbs (the flat tops) had integral return springs built into them. Your current round tops do not have integral springs and require two external return springs (one for each carb) instead In normal round top configuration, those return springs attach to the heat shield mounted below the carbs. Do you have those return springs installed? Can you take some decent resolution pics of your carbs and post them here for scrutiny?

Mother’s “Back to Black” works well for me. Another somewhat more industrial product called “Rubber Renue” is also quite good. Here is a picture of a couple of cowl drain hoses from a 510 that I “restored” yesterday. Guess which one got the Back to Black treatment after a good scrubbing to remove oxidation and dirt. Also amazed at the condition of these soft rubber hoses after 53 years.

My carbonator linkage disconnected during a drive so I pulled the hood release lever to fix it only to have it pull out with a broken cable. I had it towed home and it's up on my lift. If I want to try and release the latch with a long screw driver, what does the latching mechanism's cable attachment point look like from underneath? Oh... BTW: Happy 4th of July

My 7/70 #6521 is a bit of an anomaly. It is a Canadian market non-emissions car and has the early cap with the clip on the back for a chain but the mounting ring has no provision for a chain. I've owned the car since 1978 and never replaced the cap. My guess is it either came this way or the previous owner lost the original cap, with no chain, and replaced it with what he (or she) could get.

If you want to, you can send me the turn signal switch to evaluate and advise.

Happy 4th! Another update: Wasn't able to find anything damaged behind the dash, although I did note that several of the speedo and tach wingnuts were missing, so I replaced those. I also opened and cleaned the hazard switch. Reinstalled dash, absolutely no change. Opened turn signal switch again, cleaned again, resoldered all 6 pins. No change. Status: I have the right brake light. The left one works when I jump the WR, WB and GY pins on the back of the turn signal switch. No turn signals whatsoever. Hazards work just fine. At this point, I've decided to just give up on my turn signal switch altogether and go Euro/JDM with this setup: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125801-repair-solution-for-bad-turn-signal-switch/ However, before I do that, I wanted to make absolutely sure that it's my TS switch that's faulty, and nothing else. So I disconnected the 5-pin connector and jumped pins to try to create these configurations: ^Neutral configuration. Result: The neutral configuration works fine, both brake lights operational. However, neither the L or the R configs operate the turn signals. They're totally dead. I can't proceed with the mod until I get them working. So discouraging. I've spent so many hours on this, and they worked just fine before the restoration. Onward...

yikes, will be extra carefull, maybe a collar on the bit..

Agree with Captain on the 2 end plugs. They are really close to the cylinders. I tried drilling a small hole in one to put a screw in and hopefully remove it and this happened.

Be very careful dealing with the front plug. There isn't a lot of room behind it and if you just try to pivot it in place by knocking one side inward, there isn't enough room to swing it to get a grip on the other edge. So because of that, sometimes people drill through them and run a screw or something into them to act as a handle. HOWEVER. More than one person I know has damaged blocks by drilling through that front freeze plug and kept on drilling into the cylinder jacket. Don't do that. I drilled through mine (very carefully paying special attention to when the drill broke through the other side) and then I tapped the hole and used a piece of threaded rod attached to my slide hammer to yank the plug out. Looked like this:

My Series 2 (07/71) car has the middle chain, although it's quite oxidized compared to yours.

My Camry had a sticky pedal when I bought it. Turned out to be the nasty blade in the throttle body. Cleaned the thoat with lacquer thinner and a toothbrush. Works great to this day.

I believe it's all blocked now. I will unwrap it and check-sand it. Then on to rebuilding the booth and getting ready for color

Agree with Pop's Z. You'll want to get them all while you're doing it as the others are sure to fail also. I bought all my low pressure fuel hose at o'Reilly's auto parts. Don't use heater hose. For the 180 degree bend you can use 2 PEX 90s and some clamps. Me and some others have done it without any issues. You'll have to remove the back panel of the hatch that covers the backside of the brake lights. You might can reuse the plastic rivets that hold it on but if not they're still available from Nissan or Z specific vendors like zcardepot.com. Here's some good threads to read through before you tackle the job. Good luck. Plenty of help here when you need it. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+evap+hoses+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=9SS-Yq7VFpOxqtsP-YGkiAs&oq=240z+evap+hoses+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAM6BAgeEApKBAhBGAFQlxRY3Upg4lNoAHAAeACAAYYDiAHjEJIBCDAuMTAuMS4xmAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

if you've got plain water in it, then I think the saying is: if it ain't broke, it will be soon.

To the original poster (OP), I offer my opinion. I only have experience with Mikuni 44's... so stating that up front. David Weber of Malvern Racing (long dead, but was a friend of mine when I was a young kid) told me that Mikuni 44's are the best carb for Datsuns. He didn't care for any Webber variant and the 40's were no good either in his opinion. I was 18, and running a 2.3L stroker motor in my 510. Know that there are many variables in engine building and you can get lost in them. That said, don't. Rebuild the 44's you have. Match the intake side ports of the manifold to the carbs outlet if you wish, or don't. Not an issue for a street car. Taper from intake inlet to head side should be gradual, but for a street car, again, it doesn't really matter. Do source RUBBER carb isolators. Dave said the others are trash, and Mikuni's won't operate properly if the fuel is bouncing around inside the carbs. Mikuni's can be tuned for street without issue. I was running 40mm chokes on the 510, and it was totally streetable with a 490/290 cam. It was my car in college. Lotsa fun. Separately, I have run 44's on my 240z as well. 2.933L technically because sonic bore testing wouldn't allow me to go past 88.5 on the bore. Narly cam, still totally streetable. Lots of fun. The crazy loud wine is a Kameari chain tensioner which I may have had a bit tight.