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What? You’re saying there are more than this to constitute a thorough R&D? my car is pretty “bone stock” except the recent “force” upgraded transmission to closed ratio, and I love it. The front brake thing is another upgrade. The Z sure fun to tinkering and improving things. My pain point right know is my shallow pocket. I don’t see myself upgrading the rear to disc anytime soon. Whenever I upgrade anything, I try to retain the original look as much as possible. I try to absorb the reading materials as much as possible before pulling the trigger … but until I actually do it… I always curious of what iffff . The upgraded calipers with stock MC and booster feel great so far. No spongy feeling. Brake pedal feels tight. One thing I notice is the ceramic pads get gripper as the rotor get hot.

Man Cliff, You are simply amazing with that. I was heavily involved in that discussion (that wasn't even that long ago), and I couldn't pull up the details. Thanks for having my back!

Woah, Cliff! Ease up there. Don't want to wear it out all at once. 😂

I have a mixed bag of bulbs. Front turn signals are incandescent, backs are LED. The hazard flasher is OEM. Turn single was on zcardepot for $6.99. Bulbs in tach for turn signal lights are incandescent. Was considering buying an EF-32RL flasher for hazards and for turn signals. No sure is I need you can use the same one in both locations? BTW, here is a pic of the inside of my hazard switch that didn’t work a bit crusty.

You were right. I got out my tap and die set and sure enough it's 8 x 1.25. The top of the thread was damaged so I had to retap it. Thanks.

The insulator on the left is either damaged or modified. It should look like the one on the right and the front insulators have a bearing between the insulator and the top perch (in stock form) so turning can happen without friction on the insulator.

Sure! This is the car as it sits on the 225/45/16s. It's also sitting in Eibach progressive springs, so that is supposed to lower the stance about 1". I don't think I'd have room if I went to the 225/50/16 as I don't have flares. Hope this helps! P.S. The second picture is an older one--you'll notice that the rear hatch vent covers weren't installed! ;-D

Post 8 maybe?

I've seen that brass orifice in years gone past, but it's been so long that I don't remember where Datsun originally put it. I suspect it was stuffed into the rubber tube that connected between the carbon canister and the return hard line up in the engine compartment. I looked a little through old pics and didn't find any. I've got vague recollection about talking about it here on the forum a long time ago. Maybe Cliff can Rain Man a link for us. And yeah, If you've removed the carbon canister completely, then in theory it really doesn't make any difference where you vent that line. Front of car, back of car... No environmental difference. Just make sure it's vented high enough so you don't ever dump liquid fuel out onto the ground.

THAT'S the best part of a restoration hey! 👍

Not a race car I’ll concede, but she’s running with some fast company!

Nice Work Jim!

Yeah... It's not supposed to do that. Guess you already knew that. So I looked at the FSM and the 74 does not have that two way check valve thing that the later years did, but there IS supposed to be an orifice restriction in the vent line between the rear of the car and the carbon can (FSM EF-33). If the line is plugged, I'd start there. It's probably green crusty brass at this point.

If, God willing, my car makes it out the shop in time, I'd at least like to show up the 29th and 30th. But, then again, this is a two month suspension thing turned nine month head rebuild slug, so who knows if I'll actually make it out of purgatory by then...

Installed a set of Toyota calipers as shown on my 72. I really like them. Way better braking. Still using the rear drums and stock master cylinder. A little lower pedal but you get used to it quickly. I would not go back to the stock caliper myself.

Before I put the front cover on the engine, wondering if I can get confirmation that this chain guide and tensioner alignment is good. What do you think? More pics: Oil pressure senders aren't available new from Nissan anymore, however, this "Sankei" from Beck Arnley looks like it could be an original one? More progress on both door panels and fenders this weekend as well. Getting panels flat is hard!

My only advice on upgrading is choose wisely. This original brake set-up, although primative, worked well. In its time it was regarded as a good set-up. Building your own system and taking a couple of runs up and down the local supermarket parking lot doesn't add up to the R&D that went into this set-up. Power booster and MC is not the issue here. They only determine the force needed and brake pedal travel. The biggest issue I have is getting the balance between the front and rear set-up. I often read threads where people have made their own combination and having trouble with balance. A lot of aftermarket setups available out there, but it would pay to research them and read what others have experienced before taking the plunge. My system is standard with Porterfield pads and shoes. I just visited their website and wow they certainly are pricey these days. Mine have less than 20k km so they will last for a while yet. I was thinking of upgrading to slotted/drilled discs when I need to replace the pads. The garage that does the roadworthy test commented on the brake test. You don't see that very much on these old cars. @Patcon Understandable in your country, but I live in a "flat as a pancake" country called The Netherlands. Smelling brakes in a street car is not on my bucket list. My only hill climbs are the highway overpasses

Makin’ ‘‘em spin!