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Touge Con in Fayetteville AR was last Friday & Saturday. A very fun event with a great turnout. All jdm event with a underground vibe going on Friday night. Lots of lights & music. Main event took place at the 4 block town square, all reserved.

Made a delivery to the University District in Seattle, and parked in front of the Beta Theta Pi house was a pretty pristine ZX complete with iron cross wheels and silver hood. Something you don't see around here very much anymore are Z cars parked illegally on the sidewalk in frat row. I think mine is too low to make it onto a sidewalk.

Your problem sounds similar to what I experienced with my 75 280 a few years ago. The AFM flap was stuck open....because it was slightly bent. It probably got worse and worse due to repeated intake backfires. Something to check out.... And...all...is it really that necessary to take a stand on a person's use of one word or another? That kind of comment just seems out of step with the purpose of this forum and also the typically kind culture I see here. Lets leave that stuff out of this great site.

What! Can't hear you over these triples.

Good old 70s cars and wiring. such a poor original soldier. Turn signal fixed. IMG_1066.MOV IMG_1066.MOV IMG_1066.MOV

It's not a "rev limiter" it's a deficiency in the quality of the spark, according to Vizard. I remembered that I had found and copied some pages from an old article by Vizard and managed to find them again. His whole issue was that the stock HEI system's spark quality, aka voltage, dropped off too soon (for his desires). As I recall now, the reason it bothered me was that he was bashing the system based on race engine needs. Typical bench racer stuff. (p.s. actually, in looking at what he wrote, I realize that what's bothered me over the years is how this limitation shown by Vizard has been spread around the gear head world as gospel, even though it's basically nonsense for a typical car hobbyist.) In looking at the pages I even see that his "limit" was actually 5,500 RPM. His recommendations are for ways to get the RPM spark quality up to 7, 8, or 9,000 RPM. Here are a few excerpts from those pages.

I just did these on my 280z, and I accidentally ordered a replacement strut for a 240z, and I know none of the ones I got (front or rears for my 280z, or the one rear for a 240z) had that bump. Check the part number on the part themselves also not just the box. So you might have the wrong part. Remember the rears and fronts are different parts as well. Good luck.

I agree, don't put alot of heat into them. Cut a few seconds, let them cool, cut a few seconds... A 36 or 60 grit pad will give you the mm you need pretty quick

I am unsure if these are the right part for you or not, but if I was going to trim them, I would pull a flap disc on a 4" grind and burn them down to what I wanted...

Have you tried putting the car on jackstands, starting it up, and putting it in gear to see if you can locate the noise while it's up in the air?

As per google: Issue- "an important topic or problem for debate or discussion". Don't let politics win. Issue is what it means, not whatever politics says it is these days (if that's what you are referring to as liberal jargon). Problem or issue could be used synonymously here. In hopes that you actually cotribute to the conversation. I will change the title. @Zed Head Thank you. I am going to run through the FSM on Wednesday for EFI and see if anything new comes up. It seems hard to test electrical as most of the FSM wants you to use an oscilloscope, which I don't have. Really don't want to shotgun buy parts on this one. Also let me know if the duplicate post was removed on your end. I think I was able to get rid of it.

Clean the connections on the AFM and the engine temp sensor that goes to the ECU. Check all the connections, ignition, injectors ect. Make sure they are clean and tight. Check the function of the distributor advance, check to see if the bearing retainer in the breaker plate is broken. A crack in the distributor cap. A bad points condenser if you are running points. Random issues are the hardest to diagnose.

Check the u joints on the driveshaft?

I stand by my statement 🙂

I always say: He's less than a pile of s-h-i-t ... because that's useful to get some great potatoes or so!! Maybe he wants to come on the top of the list? You know... where hitler is on?

Well I did get another lid and have both short ears on there . I have my float sync tool and messed with float levels forever . I come up short- no matter what I try to get the correct height . I said time to try it . It seems the engine want at least 4 turns out to be happy . That also varies from start to start . I need to check the incoming fuel pressure to make sure it’s adequate or maybe too much . I do have my wideband working so I am shooting for about 13.5 at idle . . Did I say I hate carbs :-0

If the second bulb was in the speedometer, that was the problem. Incandescent bulbs don't care about polarity. When I was going to LEDs in my gauges, I ended up replacing the sockets to wedge sockets. That allowed me to flip the bulbs around if the polarity wasn't right. I didn't try to prove it out, but I think one of the bulbs in the speedometer is wired backwards. That is what provides the challenge of swapping to LEDs. Once the one diode blocks the current flow, none of the bulbs will light up.

It's false Fall in Georgia. That means for a while we will have cooler temperatures for a short while, followed up with a last blast of heat before true Fall. Anyway, the conditions were great for going to a Saturday morning car meet. As a matter of fact, the weather was so nice, several others decided to bring their Z cars out, too. The two yellow 240Zs were purchased through BaT. One of the owners has been to a Georgia Z Club meeting, though I don't know if he joined, yet. I ended up diagnosing "lack of cabin heat" issues on both. The brown 280ZX and black gold AE are both owned by fellow GZC members. All I can say is that the 260Z felt great on the roads with the new inner LCA bushings. I need to consider doing more suspension work on the 240Z to keep pace.