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Oh, I’ve got a few that should be in the sub $10K range.

Thanks Steve and Terrapin! I was able to unplug the pigtail and remove the fuse panel today. Got the shift lever removed. Looks like engine and trans will be out next weekend!

This will require Nissan part number D2345-E4100; "Puller_tree large single diameter" rather than the D2344 for the smaller bush stuff.

Wow a tree in a Z… Haven't seen that in quite a while. BAT posting must include BAC (bring a chainsaw)...

Woot!!

Well, I have now officially disconnected everything from the engine and trans, except for the motor mount bolts and the one trans mount bolt. Engine hoist and engine stand are at the ready. I think I'll get the engine and trans pulled next weekend and get the trans split from the engine and off to the trans shop for rebuild. Once I get the engine on the stand, I'll have my work cut out for me just getting the intake and exhaust manifolds off! Once I get the engine stripped, I'll be crating it up and sending it off to Datsun Spirit for a nice little rebuild. Next chore will be stripping the engine compartment, removing doors, fenders and rear hatch, then off to the body shop. I've dreamed of this day for a long time and I am pretty darn excited. After rising two sons and seeing them through college, I can't tell you how many times I put this refresh on hold due to life's other priorities and now it is becoming a reality. Radiator will be back from the radiator shop tomorrow, looking spiffy, all repaired with a fresh coat of paint, and my brake booster should be done at Harmon Classic Brakes in a week. I think I'll order new bumpers, fuel/brake and clutch hardlines and BRE spook and spoiler this evening. I guess I am committed now! (or maybe my wife SHOULD commit me now!)

Build a tree house up in there and you'll have a vacation rental, Airbnb maybe? "SLEEP IN THE TREES WITH Zs"

If you do end up drilling it, use a left hand twist drill bit. When the bit gets enough bite on the bolt, the bolt frequently screws out with the bit.

you'll have to take the timing cover off. if you're lucky, there'll be enough sticking out of the block to get a tool on and unscrew. if not, drill and tap it. did you use a torque wrench? it's only m6, so it can't take much. 5 ft lb or so.

Please just leave it alone. All of it. Move on. It’s not helping you, you’re not helping yourself. why don’t you look here https://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/products/legalis/r/list looking around all their info and pick holes with yourself.

I agree, also think that it hurts the seller's creditability when they don't state right up front - "replacement L24". ON the other hand a low VIN 240Z with a lot of expensive and time consuming restoration work already done, most certainly would be a pretty nice weekend driver for C&C's. At $50K-$65K it should be in the market range. $35K for a pretty nice non-numbers matching Series I seems a bargain + $15K for a pretty low VIN 1969 production example. MRM may very well know what he's doing ....

Well, it wasn't exactly what I did with my Z today... I got up early today to drive over to help a new friend, Rico, diagnose his 73 240Z. He took it to a shop that may not have known what they were doing, and someone else had come over to look at his car without giving him a clear diagnosis. The car is relatively unmolested and still has the original flat tops. (That's for you, @Captain Obvious. ) I took out the plugs (fouled), and I broke out the compression gauge. The readings were 150-0-130-190-175-175. I removed the valve cover and bumped the engine to check the valve lash on cylinder 2. The exhaust was at 0.012 inches. The intake was more like 1 foot. (Okay, I didn't measure it precisely, but my 0.029 feeler cleared with room to bounce around.) Well, there's your problem. There was no way the camshaft was going to operate the valve. I tried to change the valve lash, but I wasted most of my effort trying to turn the wrong nut. (I'm SO out of practice on valve adjustments.) I did try to turn the jamb nut, but someone used about 20 ugga-duggas on it. I quit before turning the nut into a cylinder. After shooting some video and photos, I woke up a friend & long-time Z wrench (He should have been up by 10:30 AM anyway to enjoy a glorious morning. 😁) to verify it wasn't anything worse than I thought. After receiving his wise counsel, I advised Rico of a suggested course of action and buttoned up the car. It was at that point when I found the plug wires were not arranged in proper firing order. I didn't notice that when I pulled off the wires, but it was VERY obvious as I was putting them back on the plugs. I did have Rico start the car, and it idled fine. I didn't attempt to lean out the carbs since I didn't want to risk anything with the one rocker able to just about dance around. After the tools were safely back in my car, one of his neighbors asked if I might know what was wrong with his car. He said he had to pull the main fuse or else the "tail lights" would be on. So I went over and showed him how the switch on his brake pedal wasn't being actuated by the brake pedal. I love the softball questions. Here are the plugs: #1 is on the right. #6 is on the left. Here's how loose the rocker is on #2.

Sorry. I thought you were saying that Dutch adage was the direct translation of what I wrote. Thanks, I get it now! So for the OP... De onderste steen boven halen.

Sourcing and fitting an earlier twin cutout crossmember would not be all that difficult? Straight swap. Here are some scans from a 2020 issue of Nostalgic Speed magazine (Vol.025) which might be helpful. They show and talk about the flipped flange (he's pointing at it...) and there are some good photos illustrating the area where the twin pipes pass around the (R200) diff. Might be useful to some.