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I am fortunate to have an uncracked dash and even a working clock on my '72. My dilemma is wanting to keep my dash protected, but not resort to a cap or fabric mat that would require any adhesive or Velcro applied directly to the dash. The solution I went with was to purchase some black plastic grommets and long black sheet metal screws. I burned a few holes in a carpeted dashmat with a soldering iron and then used the grommets and longer screws in place of the fasteners used to keep the windshield defrost vent cover in place. It turned out well. The mat remains securely in place while driving and nothing is stuck directly to the dash itself.

My beloved daily driver Scion xD got totaled Wednesday night after hitting a deer, going airborne and flipping end-over-end down a creek bed. I want to get another xD but the best deal I've fund is located in Jefferson City, MO and that's almost 500 miles from me in central Ohio. So does anyone live in or near Jeff City who would be able to give that car a good looksee, test drive and assure me it's not a dud? I'm willing to pay for your time to do this.

I think I would consider taking out the freeze plugs/casting plugs and shooting high pressure water through the block to flush it out. My concern is there are large pieces of rust in the jackets and they are fouling the holes at the head gasket. You have them cleared now but when you add fluid back into the motor that debris will circulate again and stop those points up again. Causing random overheating that seems undiagnosable

Did you look at ITBs and rule them out?

First off, wow! Thanks for all the comments and discussion! Sorry for the incomplete history too. The car was in California and Washington primarily and it's a 1972. Previous Owner took their turbo back and left me the SU carbs. I've cleaned them up and they should be ready to go after some tuning. I do have some additional info from the glove box that I can put together at some point. The someone who let the chain drop was me! My main reason for getting into the engine at all was to put a helicoil in for the long water pump bolt. That one and another were stripped and causing a big leak after I refilled (in addition to the small leak from the drain). I knew I was taking off the timing cover and figured as long as I was doing that, I might as well take off the head and see what I was dealing with. Seems like a good thing I did (though maybe I should have blocked the chain anyway)! Aside from taking off the timing cover and doing the helicoil, I spent some time today with Goof Off, parts cleaner, and compressed air. It's all pretty stubborn, but maybe you can see a little better what's going on with these pictures (I worked mainly on these two cylinders, so that's what I have pics of). Any other tips on getting this stuff off? Maybe there's a polishing pad of some kind? I was able to unclog most of the rusted out ports by sticking the air gun through the rust and then blasting it back in my face. I'm planning to go a little more methodically at that this week. Regarding the boil out, I'd really like to avoid taking the whole thing out. Is what I'm dealing with here beyond what a flush of some kind could help with? Thanks again, appreciate the help and patience. If not obvious, this is my first project and it's been great stumbling into the car community. Between a couple forums and the handful of neighbors telling me about their projects, this has been really fun!

Update to my intake dilemma: I am joining the Mikuni bandwagon! It’s going to be an eye watering amount of money , but it’s what I really wanted to do in the first place. Now I can get back on the electrical work.

I got my '70 Z in 1998. It had a small crack in the dash that had been repaired reasonably well. I have used petroleum jelly on it ever since and it has not had any further cracks. Vinyl is a petroleum based product. Although I have no scientific proof, I believe the petroleum jelly replaces at least some of the oils that have out-gassed over the years. My dash has stayed fairly soft. I do put a white towel on the dash to protect it, if I ever have to leave it parked in the sun.

Oops. I missed the part where the OP said he has an L24. And when I saw turbo my mind wrongfully went straight to L28. I always forget about those earlier blow-through turbos. This is why I don't help my kid with school things like reading comprehension and math haha.

Looks like the PO replaced the valves in the number one cylinder. The exhaust valve in the number one appears to be an L28 valve…..looks larger than the rest. The block definitely needs a boil out……looks like the PO filled the radiator with saltwater lol…….I can’t imagine why it’s so rusty. Regarding the exhaust valve…….could just be an illusion. If the head is a late E88, I believe they came with the larger exhaust valves.