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Okay. Big flurry of activity this week. As I mentioned, the SU intake system isn’t going to fit. I think I could make it fit with an aluminum spacer about a centimeter thick, but I’m not going to (or at least I’m not going to right now. I might do this as a personal project down the road.). I picked up some Mikuni N44PHH carburetors already mounted to an older style Harada manifold from Yahoo Japan, as well as a Mikuni Short-Runner intake manifold with ports on each of the six runners from a guy on the Mikuni Facebook group. After I get the carbs rebuilt and new linkage set up on the Mikuni manifold by Kyushu House (Dave Premo wasn’t available), I should be 75% to where I thought I was with the SUs. There are the questions of how I want to make the balance tube and what sort of filtration I want. I picked up the air box from the Z Club in the UK, so we’ll see how that works out. In other news, I installed my five speed! If you remember, this is a #1 case five speed out of a 1980 720 truck. I got it years ago from a yard in Idaho who pulled it back in 1983. When the transmission shop opened it up this summer they said it was nearly pristine, but I had them replace all the bearings and seals and springs anyway. I got that back at the end of October and refurbished crossmember, got a new mount and all the random bits, and installed a 280zx clutch release sleeve and the pinion for my 3.54 rear end. 👆🏻 That’s a delete for the Top sensor. 👆🏻 Output shaft plug until I put the driveshaft in. 👆🏻 240z vs 280zx clutch release sleeves. 👇🏻Installation with the wrong kind of jack. Yes I pulled the header to get the transmission in… at the last minute. And there’s the starter with a fuzzy photo of it installed. So now back to the electrical while I wait for the Mikuni stuff.

I tried to source a replacement for the boots on the fuel sender. I found 240rubber has them but I had just placed an order with Steve and figured I would wait until later to add the boots with a final order. Mine were hard as a rock. I decided to give refreshing the rubber a try. I used alcohol and wintergreen 3:1. I heated them up a couple of times with a heat gun and let them soak for about a day and a half. I was shocked at how flexible they got. Added some new connectors and that part of the harness is complete. I bought extra connectors from repair connectors if anyone needs some just shoot me a pm and I will send you some.

I do have a Raybestos seal kit from Rockauto I was planning on installing today and having the car on the road. But the corrosion put a stop to that. I believe it's probably worth trying to either have re worked by a reputable shop or replacing. Good to know about Apex. I won't be doing anything crazy like that for some time. I recently re acquired my 1991 civic Si I sold many years ago and have a B20B from a Japanese CRV/Integra 5 speed to swap into it. I've run out of room in the garage so I was forced to replace that transmission's input shaft bearing in the kitchen. The Mrs. Is thrilled haha.

I think it was so the bumpers would be at the regulated height. Found an interesting Hagerty article. I've also read somewhere that part of the reason for the big bumpers was for insurance purposes. The insurance companies were paying out too much for minor parking lot bumper bumps. Can't remember where I read it but it stuck in my brain. A congressman was involved. They're called "safety bumpers" but the safety is for the insurance companies. 5 mph. https://www.hagerty.com/media/opinion/the-hack-mechanic/two-years-that-changed-cars-forever-1974-bumpers-and-75-smog/

In case someone else doesn't chime in with exact measurements, here are some reference pics and measurements from my set of 1971 OE bumpers. The center line of the front bumperette bolt is about 18-1/2 inches from the center line of the bumper. The center line of the rear bumperette bolt is about 15 inches from the center line of the bumper. The pictures show the alignments relative to the surrounding body details - the outside edge of the front bumperette aligns with the inside edge of the headlight case, and the rubber side strip. The outside edge of the rear bumperette aligns with the inside edge of the upper tail light lens indentation, and the rubber side strip. You might want to mount the bumpers and visually fit the bumperettes for the best look, especially if there are any dimensional differences with your (I'm assuming) non-OE bumpers. Hope this helps!

Hi, these pictures might be helpful for this discussion.From Motor Magazine February 1970 . We can confirm parts, colors, how they are fitted by workers in assembly lines. Although this car is a L20 model but mostly the same parts are used for a L24 models. But this white Fairlady Z-L is a bit early made to compare with the BAT car. Because of absence of the hood bumpers, and the shape of the small rubber tab of the inspection lid . This indicates this white car could be very early like made in October 1969. Kats

Civic Si, My brother had about the same year. That little car would move and it handled really well too

Yeah that's the later ZX rear caliper. I'm not above using that setup. I've wanted this rear suspension from Apex Engineered ever since I found out about it. it requires the later ZX rear calipers. Maybe I can convince my boss that a bigger bonus this year means I'll put more money into the economy and he'll be making America stronger. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p79/Rear_Suspension_Kit.html

I'm not at all worried about keeping the OEM setup. I will likely research potential replacements from other cars that might have more availability once I have some time and a nice dark beer in my hand this evening . If such a thing even exists(The brake replacement that is). Thanks for the tip, and I'll keep that in mind as I explore options. Looks like these guys might be worth talking to out near Port Orchard/Bremerton. Other side of the Sound for me but possibly worth a ferry trip. https://www.goldlinebrakes.com/

It seems so. There's overlap though. Kind of doesn't make sense in light of the 5 mph requirement. The front bumper is usually hitting the back bumper of the car ahead. Bureaucratic nonsense. 1976 -

My 69,000 something vin # '72 bumperettes location as I viewed the OE bumpers. Rear is in my storage building front is on my 280. Anyhow the rear hole was one and 3/4" center to center... Front was 20" from the edge of the side of the bumper to the center of the bumperette hole. Hope this helps, kinda half arse but it's another feather in the hat.

Nice to know these guys are close. I like a ferry ride every once in a while. The guy who does my cylinder head porting and flowbench work lives on the other side of a ferry ride.

You are correct, I was thinking it was the other way C

There's an old business in Anniston Alabama that has them. It's AAC I think, you can google it. They sale on Ebay a lot cheaper. Go to AAC website and find your kit's part number then google that. You'll see most all carpet kits come from them. Good luck.

Apex has had had delivery problems for quite a while. Better check the wait time. That Gold Line Brakes shop looks interesting. Worth a call or email. The seals are in the bore right, so the piston is the part that needs to be perfect. A rebuild kit might be worth an attempt, they seem cheap. Figure out where the piston will sit with new pads. Might be that your pads finally wore down enough to let the crusty piston surface hit the seals. You'd imagine that a Craigslist part needs a rebuild too. There's a reason they're not on a car. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1981,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209338,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper+repair+kit,1720

Check the fuses and fusible links associated with the ignition circuit. You have exposed wires which might have grounded. And the Pertronix Ignitor can get damaged if the power is left on. Your wiring quality looks terrible. Spend some time making sure each connection is solid and insulated. There is a link in the Downloads area about how to test the Pertronix Ignitor. Once you get your wiring correct you might check it out. If you have power at the correct wires (test light or meter) and good grounds then testing the module would be on the list.

Gateway Classic Cars invited the Georgia Z Club to be the featured club at one of their monthly meets, Caffeine and Chrome. We ended up in the December slot which was nice because it's also the holiday party for Gateway Classic Cars and their Toys for Tots collection. Despite some rain, we had around 28 cars total show up. The funny thing is that the regular crowd stayed home because of the rain, so it became an ad hoc GZC holiday party with Gateway supplying the food. We managed to fill three boxes with toys, too. Here's a link to an album with photos of most of the cars that showed up today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CLAHn9vzgg3PxeqSA

Since that's an electrical part from a Works rally car, I would not place too much faith in any level of industrial standardisation being directly applicable. They are a law unto themselves! A lot of that stuff was either hand-made or involved some level of modification over stock. I doubt the dots on those screw heads are anything to do with JIS standards.

That is a good read from Hagerty. I learned something new today. I've never noticed the dot on the heads of screws but found it interesting and then I saw this picture that @HS30-H posted and was perplexed (as usual) by the dots in his photo. There's one with a single dot, the others have two. I'd like to learn more. Hopefully someone knows the story better? Thanks anybody that might share some information with me/us. Cliff

Interesting. This is from 26th. November 1969 build.

What would be the correct number @26th-Z ? Is this the correct one, it's off a Aug 1970 build.