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Just wanted to post some after pics of what've Ive done. Heres some before / after comparing a pair of the seat hinges I've finished vs what i took off the car. They aint perfect, but they are 100% better than what they were. The pics don't do justice to how badly pitted and so grease / dirt bound the mechanisms and steel were. Not bad for a 1st time DIY'r like me. Feeling good about the rest of the work I have planned. Also picked up a pair of the re-pop mechanism covers that were missing from both sides which I'll add back to the car when i finish the seats fully.

Sorry to say, I agree with you. Bragging rights and nothing more. I enjoy touring with my old cars when the weather cooperates.

My conspiracy theorist side says that the market is being artificially inflated. Some of the bids are antithetical to the whole point of an auction. The same guy that got the last 73 by bumping the bid by $27,000 bumped the bid on the 145 car by $15,000. Just not normal. If this was the stock market the FTC would be investigating unusual activity.

"Wintergreen is an oil made from mint." No, it's made from Wintergreen - Gaultheria procumbens.

The guy needs a proper hammer. He must be a carpenter. I have a number of hammers in my toolbox, and none of them have a claw. I keep my framing hammer with my carpentry tools.

Gotcha. That's definitely good to know though.

Not a race car and not a vintage race car but I watched this car come together and it is great. Hats off to Sung Kang… FuguZ

Most of these cars will be ending up just sitting collecting dust sadly

The green 73 he was selling didn't sell at 145k. In what world does this not make reserve?

I got a BaT notice the other day. 14k mile 73 didn't meet reserve at $135k!?

Don’t interchange the vinyl and plastic preps. They are different. You’re welcome

Here's the bidding on the car above. Makes no sense. Makes you wonder...

Prancing to the bank... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-222/

Done plenty of all of this. SEM Plastic Prep (not vinyl prep) works wonderfully, It’s primary job is to clean and degrease to remove traces of everything un-desirable. Then use an adhesion promoter like SEM 39863 JUST before spraying the top coat. This softens the plastic and let the top coat stick. Franky anything that will thoroughly degrease the plastic and clean it without leaving any residue will work. I’ve recently been using generic body shop degreaser to clean, even Spray 9, anything powerful and degreaser-y. Then Adhesion promoter, THEN top coat. The Sand Free product sounds like a newer development for coloring plastics. I haven’t used it, but the description sounds interesting. PLASTICS only. Vinyl and leather dying is different. The Vinyl preps typically clean and degrease and do the adhesion promotion all at once. Filthy vinyl, use spray 9 and a scrub brush and water rinse, THEN vinyl prep just before top coat. Cannot stress enough the need to clean the plastic or vinyl extremely well. None of the top coats stick to 30 years of sweat, body oil and Armor-All worth a damn. Big surprise. I’ve even used Scotch brite pads to scrub to get whatever off da plastic first. Hope that helps

Coverdale in the UK sells 260Z 2+2 carpet sets. They do ship to the colonies and the strong dollars makes the price competitive. Perhaps they may sell you just the rear hatch area. https://www.carcarpets.co.uk/datsun-260z-22-carpet-set---blenheim-range-40530-p.asp

Hi Ian, sorry I fallen asleep before explaining about how to. SpeedRoo is correct, the position of dots are telling year and month. Here is a link when I posted about it, I think other cars have definitely the same markings. So you can find out when your glasses were made Ian ! Kats

I guessed close though before the flaws were brought out. Add the fees and delivery charge $175 sounds good. I like what Hs30-h said about being original. I slept good last night knowing what I have.

This could be a novel... Flush the cooling system and put in new coolant. Inspect the brakes and replace any worn components. Also replace the brake fluid. Flush the brake fluid in the clutch hydraulics (manual) or replace automatic transmission fluid (automatic). Inspect the tires to make sure they have adequate tread and are less than 6 years old. Inspect the u-joints and driveshaft bolts. Tighten, lube or replace as necessary. Inspect all suspension components and steering components. Be prepared to replace worn rubber bushings and boots. Replace the shocks if worn. Look into adding relays to power your headlights and possibly H4 lights. Replace running lights with LED bulbs. This reduces the chance of burning up wires. Clean and lubricate the wiper arm mechanism. Replace the old seatbelts or at least replace the webbing. Inspect/replace coolant hoses and water pump. Inspect the horn and replace the horn relay if the horn is weak or nonfunctional. Replace the fuel filter. Inspect/replace spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, & rotor. Finally get a beater for the winter or your Z will rust to pieces.