Leaderboard

Hi Charles. It's a little late, but the trick I use to drill holes through a head gasket or something similar is to sandwich the gasket between two 1/2" thick MDF blocks or similar. 1. First drill a 1/8" hole through the blocks and a 1/8" hole through the gasket where you want the new hole. 2. Push the drill bit through the first MDF block then through the hole in the gasket and finally through the other MDF block. 3. Clamp it all together with a bench vice or a pair of g-clamps. 4. Remove the 1/8" drill bit and drill it out to the required size. 5. Repeat procedure for each hole. Clamping the gasket between two pieces of wood stops the drill from chewing up the edges as the bit passes through. It might be handy for someone else doing this.

DatsunZguy - Thanks for the quick response. I had previously checked oreilly, autozone, napa, and advanced auto - all of those sites indicated out of stock conditions. Having said that armed with the specific part number I did call both Oreilly and autozone and both said that they would try to special order it. So, thank you for the part number lead. It may take a few days, but I will update this thread if they are able to fill the order.

You can go down to your local AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc... and try an STP SA3378. Worse case, if it doesn't fit, just take it back to the store for a refund.

Another tip. Be carefull buying a replacement set. A lot of sellers really don't know what they are selling. You should look for the S12-8 system. Calipers are left and right, marked with a R and L. There should be two sized pistons. 2x 43mm pistons and 2x 34mm pistons. That is not a typo no matter what the sellers tries to tell you. 4x 43mm is the Wide version and won't work on the 10.5mm thick solid rotor. Buy a set of Porterfield pads R4-S brake pads. Well worth it.

They are bolt on replacements/upgrades, but you will have a deeper brake pedal due to the extra fluid required in the calipers. That can be corrdcted by replacing the 7/8" master cylinder with a 15/16" 280ZX master cylinder. If you go to the S12W with the 4x 43mm pistons, you will need the vented discs and the 280ZX 15/16" master cylinder or the 1" Wiilowood MC. The 280ZX MC is slowly but surely becoming a unicorn.

Thanks for pointing that out. The 12+8 are available on Rockauto, too. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13416221&cc=1277243&pt=1704&jsn=1404

No. The link Steve posted is for the S12W calipers with the 4x 43mm bores and vented rotors. Your calipers in your post #6 are the S12-8 calipers with 43/34mm bores for the non-vented solid rotor. The S12-8 calipers are getting hard to find. S12-8 - 1984-85 Toyota 4 Runner and 1979-84 Toyota pickup S12W - 1985-95 Toyota 4 Runner

Good luck with that. Might want to see the cylinders, if you can get them apart, before you buy the rebuild parts. Pretty crusty.

This afternoon i'm gonna kick myself... i could buy one for 60 grand about 20 years ago? and now estimate: is 1,8-2,2 million... pfff.. I think it's one of the most beautiful cars ever. well done Count Albrecht Graf von Goertz! (for the aluminum body) It has a V8 but as strong as a L24.. 150 horse.. But yeah.. it's a 1959 car..

SERIES II For Sale at Mecum Auction Kissimmee, FL Jan. 4-15, 2023 A Series II BMW 507 - A Million Dollar Offering? I'll have to attend the auction, just to see one in person. https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0123-545398/1959-bmw-507-roadster/ FWIW, Carl B.

This is not precise enough. You need the numbers. Yarb makes a good point about things that might be getting stuck. Buzzers, light switches, corroded relays, corroded switches. For example, the dome light has constant power. The light comes on when the circuit is grounded, either by pressing the light itself, or when the door is opened. The switch is in the door jamb (I think). You could also try pulling fuses and watching the current. Eventually you'll find the circuit or circuits that are passing the current to ground. I did take the time to look at the diagram and see that there is a lot of stuff that has constant power. And lots of connectors. Really looks like a PITA. The black and white diagram hurts my eyes to try to follow. One blink and you have to start over. That's why being methodical and taking good notes will really help.

I am sure your situation is frustrating. I read back through all of your posts and here are my thoughts. - I am still not convinced you have ruled out whether or not you have a head gasket leak. You have multiple posts where you mention white exhaust. None of your efforts and energy are going to work if you have a head gasket leak. - If you remain uncertain whether the thermostat is an issue....do what Zed Head has suggested and remove the thermostat as a test. If it runs hot without a thermostat then the thermostat is certainly not the problem. - You mention multiple flushes to clean out rust in the block. Is it possible that the flushing freed up debris that is now restricting flow in the new radiator? May need to pull the radiator and flush it out with hose, etc. - If all of the above checked out, I would come up with a way to confirm / visualize that coolant is flowing freely through the system. Might use some clear hoses, watch waterflow in the top of radiator, etc.

When I have a car up on ramps/jack stands, the wheels on the ground always get chocked. As a matter of fact, when the wife guides me up the ramps, she chocks the back tire as soon as she hears the car go in park. I am pretty good about not rushing anything that I think can crush me.

Dave, first glad your we not injured., second It made me laugh because you even warned us fuel was going to shoot out. I’ve injured myself too many time in the garage. Now now matter what I’m doing out the the first thing I do it put on my safety glasses. Without my eyes I’m out of a job. The guy I flew with this week recently became trapped under his car changing the brakes on his Acura MDX. His foot was jammed under the brake rotor and he screamed for his son who was in the house to jack the car back up. He forgot put a block on the back tire and because he was rushing and the car rolled back. Anyways glad you were not hurt.

Even someone as old as Jay Leno.

My entire head, face and upper body were subjected to a huge flood of ATF that came out of at least two plug holes on an engine that had been literally FILLED with ATF as I attempted to crank it over. It was as if the engine had been filled to overflowing with ATF with 2-3 gallons worth to preserve it I suppose. The engine did eventually start, and I discovered that of course the exhaust was also filled with ATF and the initial start up caused a huge soggy mess of mouse nest and ATF to be ejected out the exhaust and directly onto the side of my Ford F150 that was parked across the open garage door. That Z smokes for weeks afterwards as the ATF eventually burned off. I have a picture somewhere

I had to laugh, probably because I was expecting the result from the title of the thread. I think we have all had the opportunity to say, "Well that was stupid!" while we were working on our cars. You just have video evidence.

ordered something couple weeks ago from them. Called them and was told still you need to call to make sure what you want is in stock as website isnt updated according to on hand inventory. Strange. btw, they told me multiple times my item was on way when it wasn't but is in stock. This is more than once they've done this to me.

I do now after a simple oil change proved tomorrow isn't always the same as today. After using a floor jack to get under mine I went for the oil catch pan. My car rolled back and fell off the jack hitting the very front of the oil pan. I have a badly dented oil pan to look at the rest of my life thankfully.