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Haha! Like this:

Something in from Australia! A progressive cam for the overhead bar and my ITB. It would also work with triples. Basically it increases pedal modulation, so this gives you more pedal movement with less throttle blade movement. Should help with street driving and my throttles trying to take huge gulps of air with a tiny amount of pedal travel. Weber kc332 Now machined out to 10mm. Just barely enough room. I had to have the allen bolt turned down.

Just talked to Willy at Nostalgic-Grains who asked for a pic of the steering wheel in sun light. Thanks!

Give these guys a try, if they don't have it in stock they can make it. http://www.nostalgic-grains.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=133

This is a good place for those mental roadblocks. These guys sure have helped me.

it will run but the revs arent right or its slow when i push the pedal.. probably from bypassing it? Regarding the fuel filter.. never checked it 😮 Could be a possibility for sure but then the pressure gauge still reads at 36 until I shut it off and it drops instantly. I have no idea why the fuel tank was disconnected but when I disconnect the fuel infeed pipe it flows very good into a bottle.. i say very good as I didnt time the flow but as the pressure is up I thought well its normal ( but still the filter might be worth a check ) The way I have it now ( and not sure if it is what is making the difference ) is with the TPS disconnected. I guess that having it disconnected ( and by that I mean that i have a wire running from the WOT to Idle on the connector ) means that it wont give full throttle enrichment. Maybe I will try it with it reconnected. I am not too sure if it will start though but worth a shot for sure. AFM is connected for sure. I done most if not all the electrical tests in the manuals and all came back fine. By that I mean I tested the ones for injectors, sensors etc etc .. believe me.. i been through them twice at this stage 😄 I didnt write my readings down but they all checked out fine. At this point ( when I am back in Ireland ) I will check 1. the timing 2. the fuel filter at the front 3. the TPS reconnected and see what it does if started Thanks for all the info again.. I came to a roadblock mentally with it. Just remembered . I think that when I had the TPS connected that it didnt run even with my foot down slightly and that is why I disconnected it in the first place. I also adjusted that as per a video I seen on youtube.

A few of the discoveries during disassembly- strengthened gearshift mount (with stock mount for comparison), shortened steering arms (longer arm on left is stock), and rear left-side splash panel - just some of the little details which escaped us earlier that we're now noticing. These are perhaps easily overlooked features, but for me, its just interesting to see the attention to detail. All these mods serve a specific purpose.

That's a good point Cliff. I glossed over the fact that the TPS was connected before but is not now. Having the TPS disconnected would be like having the throttle pedal partially open. No idle enrichment and no full throttle enrichment. According to the FSM. Not clear what "bypassed " means though, above. Another switch that might be disconnected is the AFM plug. Not uncommon for it to fall off as you're trying to get the AFM plugged in and back in its hole. Really at this point it would be a good idea to go through the electrical tests in the EFI Guide Book. Lots of other stuff that could be unplugged and affecting things. Coolant temperature sensor, for example. Electrical tests here. Good practice with the meter. Nissan has some weird formatting in the FSM.

#1 is the switch that turns of the "Hair Dryer" aka injector blower. It is mounted in the thermostat housing #3 is the hi engine coolant temp switch. It disconnects the power to the distributor and shuts down the engine due to overheating. It is mounted in the heating plate under the Aux AIr Regulator #5 are coolant temp sensors but not for any Z car. The oval connector was not used until much later #4 is an O2 sensor #2 are thermo-vac valves. Dont know the difference between them. There may be ID numbers that might give a clue. They were used to limit vacuum to the distributor until the engine was warmed up and also to the EGR on some cars.