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just to let the forum members know I have a 260z with the 2 lift struts for the hatch. today I did install the Stabilus brand strut part # is 3b250273 and the hatch opens up 95% on its own. after I push the button to open the hatch, I raised it maybe 3-4" and it goes all the way to the top. what a difference. I believe the force is 44lbs for each strut and it does close really easy. just an update for the forum.

Recently a Datsun Friend introduced me to the "Service Data and specification" booklets, which i was unaware of before. Naturally i had to investigate, and luckily i found one for sale online. Strangely i have only ever seen the earlier versions in a mixed english / Spanish language print so far. However when i checked out my friend's DSSA parts lot recently, it also included a bunch of 1979 version booklet in german: The 1979 version only includes the S130, so the following pages are from the 1973 version with some pictures of the S30 stuff. The booklet's intention is for the Datsun workshop mechanic to have an overview of different specifications and interchangeability from the different NMC cars of an era. It is divided in general specifications, Motor and Body. There is also a similar booklet for non-passenger cars (trucks, etc) Here's some example of model codes used in the documentatino and some basic specification, which does not include the non-export versions. I like the overview, like shown here the different suspension options, on one page. I will use these to update some of my previously made knowledge posts. Here's another example, showing the Manual 5-speed transmission of 1973 (previous version not included). but it's a great overview of data. And there is plenty more to dicsover. Oh, and i had a talk to my bodyshop about the progress and it's still on schedule to restart work in approximately three weeks. Can't wait 🙂

After knowing you have good compression, I would be looking at ignition. I know you dont want to go there, but this simple tool may give some insight as to the offending cylinder. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6?th=1

IIRC there are two pieces of metal that spin closely to each other. If the gap between them isn't clean or has corrosion then it will read high across the range

I'll give that a shot. I think it also has something to do with the needle placement on the gauge itself. As soon as I start moving it jumps to about 20mph. Might need to reseat it in the correct spot.

If it was slower I'd say stripped groves in the plastic cog but being twice as fast??? I'd pull the connection/housing out of the transmission and give it a good look over. That's the easiest thing to do that I can think of. Good luck. And it's the same height as the fill hole so you won't loose any fluid. Jack it up from the passenger's side to move the oil over even further away.

I’m not sure that would help much in this situation as only plug 4 is consistently fouling, not others. Unless there is an ignition lead problem on 4 (which I seem to recall was eliminated with new leads or a swap with another OK lead?) then there is something other than electrical happening there. I am of course assuming Jalex is running a healthy distributor with a new cap and rotor + little to no play in the shaft. Glad you’ve found points to work well for you. They were shockingly bad at high revs on mine and the 280zx (12-80) distributor out gunned it on my L26 with better engine behaviours above 4.5k rpm and pushed keenly another 700 revs towards the red line. As for coils, I have to agree with you. I’ve had a number of different output coils and frankly, on the road, it’s impossible to tell the difference between a flamethrower and a stock coil - with my hairy butt dyno at least!

🤣 Ah.. that's what you mean... okay! 👍

Working on fixing glass fiber bumper bracket. I purchased body mount from EuroDat a bit long ago, and finally, start working on the bumper. The bracket is really stable and fit very well. Thanks Chas! I purchased fiber bumper from local craigslist long time ago... The bracket on the bumper side does not fit to the mount at all. Thus, I removed the bracket and left them for awhile... I weld bolts on the bracket and painted. Put a few glass fiber sheet and fix it. Add more sheets to make it durable. Test fitting looks good ? I have to think about what I should do on the side blots. I don't have a hole on the side of the body...